Just finished my first timing belt install. Used some of the tutorials I could find here and other places. I didn't do the TDC thing like most tutorials advise. I just marked my camshaft pulleys exactly where they were when I started. Also marked the rotor location in the distributor.
Things/problems I noted as I went through the job:
Instead of removing the skidplate to get to the drain plug I just cut the bottom radiator hose-Not going to use the old hose anyway-instant drain.
I removed the radiator, then the fan shroud, then the fan, then the upper cam pulley cover, then the 27mm bolt on the crankshaft by putting a pipe over the rachet handle (5 speed in gear w/emer brake on) then the harmonic balancer (puller $15.95 at advance auto) This is when I marked the cam pulleys and marked the location of the "key" on crankshaft, also marked the location of the rotor in the distributor. Then I cut the old timing belt-problem was, both camshaft pulleys moved about an inch off the mark. Had to put a pry bar in the holes in the pulleys to bring them back to their correct location, then peg them in place by wedging a screwdriver through a hole in each one because they wanted to go back to their wrong locations. When the one on the driver's side goes to it's correct location the rotor also moves back to it's correct location. Then I slipped the new timing belt on with the tensioner as loose as it will go-Was a tight fit. (New timing belt $13.95 at advance auto-dayco brand wow, good price) Then I turned the engine over with the socket wrench on the crankshaft bolt to make sure I hadn't make a big mistake (valves hitting pistons) That seemed ok so I put the harmonic balancer on and started it up briefly (very briefly-no radiator, no water pump turning etc) Started right up. Then put it all back together in reverse order with new radiator hoses, new p.s. belt, new alt. belt (all a/c stuff taken off a couple years ago) Another thing that was different from tutorials was that the tensioner releases counterclockwise. To get all the belts on it was a big help to turn the 27mm crankshaft to turn the engine while helping the belts on with a flat prybar. Easist way to loosen the alt and the p.s. pump are while you have everything out (radiator, fan etc) The biggest problem for me was getting those camshaft pulleys back to the mark, you can't just move them by hand (even with the spark plugs out), have to pry them or turn them with their center bolt. Probably a good idea to use the TDC method you read about to get the belt to line up instead of how I did it-I was lucky, could have been 1 sprocket off and it might still appear to be sitting at the mark you make. I didn't change my water pump or t-stat. Mine has 120k miles and is a third vehicle, getting less and less use. I was on pins and needles though that the t-belt might break and ruin the engine, or the bottom radiator hose might spring a leak-all original stuff.
