frozenrotors

Yes !

I would agree with trogdor as well. I chased down a similar problem(s) that took over a year to find. Same characteristics (high idle, running rich, pathetic gas mileage etc..) turns out after being told I had bent valves, leaking intake gaskets etc.. I had it hooked up to a smoke machine which is used in finding leaks in A/C systems. Fount a vacuum line leak in the back of the engine. The line connecting to the EGR valve was split length wise and was nearly impossible to detect by the naked eye.Once the smoke machine was blowing smoke through the entire intake and vacuum lines the leak was clearly visible. Cut a 1/2" off the line...problem solved! Saved about a $1000.00 in labor using 'old school' diagnostics. Hope you find the problem.

Are you still running it with a total static timing of 17 degrees?

I'm wondering if you plan on or why you didn't go with the Holley 2 Barrel set up? Have you or do you see any benefits to keeping the TBI set up?

What would be the most logical way of figuring out whats on there WITHOUT having to take everything apart? I'm trying to do this on Labor Day of all days and won't have access to a parts store. And it's my only vehicle. Would taking the engine number off the block tell me anything and get me the right part number or water pump? Thanks, Keith

Thought of him too. Unfortunately for me, he's on vacation or something.

Come to think of it. I think that motor came out of a 1989 or 1990 2 wheel drive pick up. The oil pans were different, the 4wd pan was obviously deeper than the one that was on the donor motor. Since none of the accessory parts were on the donor motor. Just came with heads, block and no intake. The water pump was on it, but all the pulleys were gone and had to come from the original motor. I guess I'm wondering what would be different on the water pumps? And would you know the size or part # of this by pass hose? Thanks, Keith

Does anyone know if there are any differences in water pumps from 1987- 1990 on the 3.0L VG 30 I. I replaced my engine a few years ago, and cant confirm what year the 'donor motor' came out of. The mechanic that did the swap said the new water pump on the old 'take out' engine would not fit. Now either he lied to me because he forgot to swap it or there is a difference between pumps. The other item I'm interested to know about is this 'coolant by pass' hose I've heard mentioned that is either attached to the water pump or somewhere near by. Apparently it can only be accessed while the timing belt, cover and water pump are being serviced or replaced. I need to do a water pump and am in the process of getting ready to order parts from Rock Auto. So any input or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Keith

Was that in USD? LOL

Thanks. But isn't that for the idle speed? I am referring to a small screw, similar to what older single cylinder motorcycle carburetors had on them. It's located on the drivers side (left) as your facing forward in the drivers seat. At the bottom corner of the Throttle Body. Thanks,

Has anyone seen or experienced any benefits to adjusting this screw. Such as change in mileage or performance? I'm curious, because now that I've located and fixed 2 vacuum line leaks, I still get a bit of a rough-idle as it warms up. Coming down from fast idle, when it reaches about 12-1500 rpm's it starts to idle rough then as it continues to warm up and settles into full idle at 8-900 rpm it idles so smooth It's hard to notice it's running! Mileage hasn't been the best, but it's a significant improvement over where i was at 8 MPG. Thanks, Keith

Does anyone know here the thread is located that covers the topic of a 'Idle mixture screw' which is located. This mystery screw is located on the driver's side bottom in the back of the throttle body. I ran across the tread once before but can't remember under what topic it was on. Thanks, KM

Does anyone know here the thread is located that covers the topic of a 'Idle mixture screw' which is located. This mystery screw is located on the driver's side bottom in the back of the throttle body. I ran across the tread once before but can't remember under what topic it was on. Thanks, KM

Very good advise, I just failed to locate ALL of the lines and had 2 that were so well hidden that they leaked enough to cause some very frustrating idle and mileage issues.

I like that idea. Now all you have to do is implement a small pressure regulator to control line pressure. Thanks

Well you can always drop a chunk of dry ice down the throttle body and wait for it to dissolve ! LOL. However you'd have to have the rotating 'glitter ball' in your shop to see the vapor, and have a few cuts from the Village People blaring in the background !!! LOL

It's a portable smoke machine used to test for leaks in automotive A/C systems. I am not sure where or who he purchased it from, but it sure does the trick for chasing down vacuum leaks ! We just disconnected one of the vacuum lines coming off of the bottom of the air cleaner. (The line that operates the vacuum motor for the hot air valve on the 'neck' of the air cleaner. Then we plugged the throat of the throttle body (center) and pushed the tapered nozzle into the vacuum line. Push the button to inject the smoke (while the engine is off) and got a 1970's type disco show complete with SMOKE! Then it's just a matter of locating the source of the leak, and repairing it.

I'll tell you what! I just found 2 major vacuum leaks over the weekend that I have been chasing for 2 years. Every one I took the truck to, said I had a leaking intake gasket and the estimates ranged from $6-$ 800.00. I finally found a decent MECHANIC, who suggested we try hooking the truck up to a smoke machine which is usually used to detect leaks on A/C systems. Well, after taking the air cleaner body off, and plugging up the throat of the throttle body, he went about injecting the smoke into the manifold. Smoke poured out from 2 MAJOR areas, which turned out to be vacuum lines running to the EGR and one to the Cruise Control. Even thought the cruise control worked, the vacuum leak caused very rough running, un speakable fuel mileage, and was just an all round PIA !. After those leaks were corrected, the damn thing purrs like a kitten and warms up properly with out any rough running when at normal temperature. These leaks could never have been located and discovered without using this machine. (Unless I wanted to spend an enormous amount of time (which I did) trying to locate the source of the leaks. (they were both up against the fire wall, and down on the back side of the manifold). The hoses cracked were actually 'splits' in the hoses. Maybe you could use this method on your truck ? Hope this helps, Keith

Did you clean the Mass Airflow Sensor on the throttle body? There is a thread on hear to do that. Take a Q-tip and dip it in rubbing alcohol, and GENTLY WIPE OFF THE VERY FRAGILE WIRE on the end of the sensor. May make a difference in how it runs.

Ok, I tend to agree with James. Especially since he's a customer ! LOL. So...how does one go about cleaning out the evaporator? And more importantly...where's it located! I have already taken apart the plastic box behind the glove box, but I believe thats where the heater core lives? Although I did see the expansion valve in there. I tried to clean out the leaves that I thought may have accumulated in there, but it was actually pretty clean. If this is in fact the evaporator, I'd like to know how you can clean between the cooling fins and flush or vacuum out the dust and crap that may be trapped in there after all these years. BTW_ I thought there was a post on here about removing this box completely? I could only get the front spring clips off (and the nuts and bolts), and that wouldn't allow me to completely remove the lower section. Thanks

Hey James, Sounds like your 3rd gear syncro is worn out. Not sure on the relationship or if it's a 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th syncros, but usually when the transmission jumps out of gear when you lift off the throttle or unload the gear cluster it's a worn or broken syncro. Especially if your having to hold it in gear. Keith

Charlie, Where did you find this fusible link coming off the battery terminal? My truck is starting to exhibit the same problems as yours. I also sprayed some carb cleaner towards the base of the intake manifold where it mates with the top of the cylinder head. When doing so the idle changed, leading me to believe I have an intake gasket leak? Also wondering if you have Multi Port injection or Throttle Body Injection? Thanks.

Hi there, And welcome. Where did you find the bargain on bumpers? I'm in the market and have an 89 Pathy SE 4x4. Thanks

No. The speedo works, it just accurately log the correct amount of mile. I went to fill my gas tank the other day. And discovered that in 1 week I only covered 93 miles! I know I put more miles on than that! So, I'm wondering how I can fix this and what might be causing it? I have stock wheels and tires, so I know it's not thrown off by that.

If I pull out those gears will that disable the speedometer entirely ?