ProStreetDriver

How to shampoo/clean the carpet and fabric within your vehicle's interior. This video includes both the floor carpet and fabric seats. This method can also be applied to the fabric which is located on some door cards, depending on the vehicle. This video does not cover how to shampoo a headliner. What is needed: -wet/dry shop vacuum -upholstery/fabric cleaner/soap -brush (I use a tooth brush in the video) -cloth How it's done: -vacuum fabric/carpeted areas free of dust/dirt -lightly spray soap onto material -if there is stains, spray a little extra onto that area -let the soap soak in for a few minutes -if stains, rub with brush in multiple directions -rub down areas with cloth in multiple directions -vacuum area removing access water and dirt -leave the windows or doors open for a day to allow the material to air dry

How to wash dirt, grease, or grim away from your engine bay. Make sure your engine is cool when you do this procedure. Spray the solution onto the engine and around the engine bay, let it soak for approximately 5 minutes, then continue to rinse off with hose or pressure washer. Let engine dry for a few hours to prevent the vehicle from running rough. The soap I used in this video is called Spray Nine, but I'm sure there is other cleaners available which will do the same job. Areas to take caution around when washing: -alternator -coils/distributor -spark plugs -spark plug wires -fuse panel -oil filling places (engine oil, transmission oil, power steering) -brake fluid reservoir -intake -air filter To protect any areas you are worried about water entering, you can cover it up with a plastic bag.

This slideshow video outlines how to repair sheet metal. This demonstration was done on a lawn tractor mower deck, but the same principles can be applied to auto body work on vehicles. Most auto body panels do use a thinner gauge steel, so when you welding, more care will have to be taken to reduce the amount of heat distortion. Removing the rusty soft/thin areas will allow for a solid area to weld the patch to. This also reduces the chance of having the welder burn through the existing steel. After the hole has been cut, you are now able to make a patch for the damaged area. For this I purchased similar gauge/thickness sheet metal. To bent the steel, I used a couple concrete blocks for weight, a propane torch to make the steel more pliable, and a hammer for forming. To cut the patch to size I used an angle grinder and a file for any fine fitting adjustments. The cuts in the one rounded patch allows for the piece to be bent into two different directions to match the contour of the mower deck. Grind the paint off around the area where the patch will be welded to. This will ensure that welder is able to arc on the existing surface properly. The tack welds hold the piece in place and allow me to align the patch to the existing surface. For the welding, I used a small flux core mig welder. Running small/short (approx. 1" length) welding beads reduces the amount of distortion within the sheet metal which is caused by excessive heat. This will have to be adjusted accordingly depending on the gauge/thickness of steel. For grinding down the welds I used the angle grinder with standard grinding disc for the higher areas and a flap disc to smoothen the surface. If your applying this process to auto body panels, you can fill in the low areas with some type of filler to achieve a smooth finish. This was a lawn mower deck, so it was pointless for me to apply any filler. For paint, I used low gloss black farm equipment painted which I brushed on.

How to scan your vehicle with a generic OBD II code reader to diagnose the check engine light (CEL). How the code reader operates may vary between makes and models. OBD II was used on vehicles in the mid 1990s and newer. Before OBD II was the OBD I system which needs a specific reader for each vehicle. Once the code is found, a simple internet search using your vehicle's make, model, and the code found will allow you to search what caused the issue, and what can be done to solve the problem. The internet search allows you to search the online database through car forums, online manuals, etc to help solve the issue. If you have solved the issue causing the fault code and the vehicle does not clear the fault code, you may need to clear the code using a code reader. Or if you hate seeing the check engine light then you can clear it, but if the problem persists, you will need to fix the issue.

This video demonstrates how to remove any smells/odors in your vehicle's ventilation system. This is a special solution which is used by dealerships, garages, and car lots that is sprayed directly into your vehicle's heater/air conditioning system that kills any foul smells. This can be used to remove any odors from dust, smoke, manure, smoking, oil, etc. Simply spray the solution in the vehicle's vents with the fan off, also spray in the intake outside air duct, turn vehicle on, start fan on highest setting, and let the solution recirculate through the vehicle for approximately 20 minutes. Do not breathe the solution in.

How to install a plug to repair a puncture/hole in the tread face of a tire. The sidewall cannot be repair as it is unsafe and illegal. Procedure: -remove tire from vehicle -find air leak using soapy water and watch for bubbling -remove object in tire using a screw driver, pliers, etc -using the reamer from the tire repair kit, stick in the in the hole so it goes through to the other side, twist reamer to clean hole -load plug into needle, center plug in needle -stick plug 2/3 length tire with 1/3 left exposed to the outside -pull needle straight out quickly without twisting -cut off access plug using side-cutters, razor, etc -pump up tire and reinspect for leak -when all is done, reinstall tire on vehicle

How to remove/shave your vehicles emblems/badges. I have also included how to add a new emblem to a vehicle. Tools needed are a heat gun or hair dryer, dental floss or fishing line, polisher is optional, polishing compound, wax, lint free polishing cloth, brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol, ruler or string, and a fine tip marker.

Basic information on how to read/study a tire. This video demonstrates how to tell what causes improper wear, broken belts, when the tires need to be changed, low or high tire pressure, build date of the tire, etc. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwExotrcdwI

Yep... Almost done... All I have to do now is put the rad back in, top idler pulley bracket, belts and thermostat(my dad is out picking some up), connect the intake tubes back up and then fill and bleed the system.

Got most of it apart. Not gonna lie, what an ignorant job. Needed a timing belt anyways. I also have to pick up the other 2 serpentine belts too. They were new when I bought the Pathfinder, now the one is chewed is half and the other has a couple chunks out of it.

Figured out the noise the hard way... On my way to school this morning on the highway, heard a clunk and then a ping. So I pulled over immediately and just as I was pulling over the battery Light came on. I thought it might of been an idler pulley until I got out and walked to the front of the vehicle. Then I saw and heard the steam. Popped the hood to find both belts off, and a load of coolant coming out of the front of the motor and the mechanical fan/clutch assembly off the shaft. So the waterpump is done along with the clutch for the mechanical fan. Should I also do the timing belt too while I have the pump off??? Oh and the really weird thing. I took a video this morning when I started it up to let it warm up for school. The noise was pretty much gone.

My Pathfinder just started making this noise the other day and its really loud. It sounds like its coming from either the center of the motor, but closer towards the passenger side. Still runs fine, but idles a little erratically. Its almost like a pulsating noise. Doesn't sound like a belt or pulley. Best way to explain it would be, it sounds like air pressure. My dad was thinking maybe it was the pollution pump or even the air line that comes from the manifold to the pump. When I rev it up, it seems to somewhat disappear or even out. Any ideas???

What kind of oil are you using??? I know Quaker State and Pennzoil have a wax paraffin base which sludges up your motor. Try switching to another type of oil.

I've heard stories about jeep coils actually working, but you'd have to get someone to confirm this. I actually want to lift my r50 in the rear also with coil springs but I don't want to spend a bunch of money on new coils.

Try http://www.v-leds.com/ They seem to have a lot of good products. I bought led bulbs from them for my halos in my car. I'm also thinking of changing my dash lights in my Pathfinder to all red leds.

That is perfect for replacement boots and the price is great too! Thank you so much, really appreciate it As for both of the part numbers, that's both inner and outer boots right???

From what I can remember, I need to do cv boots anyways. I want to replace them before I get the Pathy on the road for the winter. Not to mention I put 350km on a day for school and its mostly highway driving, so that will chew the old boots up like nothing. I would love to get some manual hubs, but I don't really want to fork out the money for new ones right now. Thanks for the help btw

Would 1.5" in the front for the strut be a safe lift for the cv joints in the front axle??? And how much lift would I get with spacer blocks between the coils and axle if I made mounting pads that fit between??? Just looking for an 1.5" lift for the front and rear. I know I can do springs, but I'm incredibly cheap lol, not to mention it'll probably cost me close to $300 with duty and shipping. I'm hoping to do this for about $50.

Did any of the older Frontiers or Pathfinders come stock with manual hubs?

So has anyone retrofitted coils from some other vehicle into a pathy??? I have found some stock 07+ coil spring from a Jeep Wrangler cheap. I'm trying to do everything as cheap as possible lol. Last lift I did on my first 4x4 was about a $50 total for an 1.5" suspension lift.

Thank you, that's perfect!

How do I remove the front and rear bumpers on my R50??? Just have to finish putting a final coat of paint on my new bumpers, so well they're drying, I'll probably start taking off the ones on my Pathy.

Didn't want to start another thread so I'll just continue this one. So I put some fluid in it a while ago, and its been sitting and I did take it for a couple drives. Hasn't gone down, but the steering is still ridiculously hard to turn like before. Is it possible that there is air locked in the lines somewhere and where would I bleed the system from???

What's the spline count? I found some warn hubs that are for a jeep with dana 30 axles, 28 spline.