piste
-
Posts
199 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by piste
-
-
One of the primary things larger tires will stress is the drivetrain...could be U-joints? One of the first things I'd do is get those struts replaced since they are leaking anyway. BTW...the KYB warranty is against manufacturers defect...something that could be pretty tough to prove in a strut. KYB does not warranty against normal wear or abuse...not saying you abused them....but struts ARE a wear item. Why is the steering rack moving around?? That shouldn't be...The mounts should secure it in place. Good luck.
-
Not very hard for them to do so. They get your info/address from the DMV. Any time there is a recall they go into the DMV records all over the country looking for the VIN numbers of those vehicles affected and get your info so that they can send you a letter.
You might not live in one of those areas but is worth a check. It is free anyways.
I never got a letter from Nissan but I called up the local dealer and he looked up my VIN number and it came up as on the recall list. Truck was looked at this week and they informed me that they are going to scrap it. Waiting for the call now telling me how much they are going to offer.
That's interesting... I would not have thought that corporations would have access to DMV records and the personal information therein. As far as I know...they don't. I know the DMV would not give that info to me...and with all the privacy laws in place today...I'm surprised they'd give it to Nissan. I mean..yeah they sold the vehicles....but that doesnt' give them special rights. Just curious.
-
Maybe I'm missing something..but I thought silicone spray was the "no question go-to" stuff for this sort of thing...??
-
I ordered mine....in 1997....don't recall the discount. But in theory dealer should discount more as they will have zero carrying costs for any inventory on it. On the other hand...they may be more motivated to clear a space on their lot with one that is already there.
-
Interesting. I'll let you guys know if my rig goes down in flames.
I'm glad you mentioned that...because of the gap between the bolt and the collar....sparks could generate and when you are making a right turn into a headwind downhill on a Sunday the sparks could make their way to the fuel line and kaboom!!!
-
I've got the Rancho 5000's and love them. What's not applicable about them?
Well...you can get em on there...but Rancho will tell ya they don't make one for the R50. Link to their catalog below...check out page 54 or so for Nissans. The ones AC sells....you can get them on there...but one of the bolts...believe it is the lower...is of somewhat smaller diameter than the piece on the shock...so unless you rig up some sort of shim or something...they'll be a little play in there. Again...you can get em on....and not saying you'll have a problem....but Rancho will tell ya they don't make a shock for the vehicle...and personally I wouldn't put them on. I informed AC and they said they know better than the shock manufacturer themselves. FWIW that's pretty blatant and intentional misrepresentation...not trying to make it more than what it is...but that is...what it is...just saying.
-
Good call getting the Bilsteins. The Rancho 5000s aren't applicable to R50s...they are just misrepresented that they are on the AC site. Mangled boxes are fairly common with AC....the good customer service you got is not.
-
You are correct, the integrity of new welded steel to new welded steel is pretty sound. The problem is when you have 11 year old corroded steel and welding on new steel that is structural.
That wouldn't meet my definition of "repaired PROPERLY".
-
130,000 miles. I plan on fighting tooth and nail. It also has the Solenoid TCM issue as well with the flaring. I would also prefer to not drive around a patched up vehicle with my 3 year old son in the back. Welding a structural problem like this is like putting a bandaid on a flesh eating virus.
Having young children I can fully appreciate your take on this. But OTOH....if repaired PROPERLY it can be made to be as strong or even stronger than the day it came off the factory floor. Not trying to change your mind...just saying....the structure of the vehicle when originally built had lots of welded steel to begin with.
-
Anyone have any guesses why there is absolutely nothing posted on nissanhelp.com yet in the Knowledgebase?? No TSB nor recall campaign info.
-
off to 4x4parts to spend my $$$...once it's refunded. Uggh!
yeah...well....good luck with that....you'll be hard pressed to find a company that is more widely renowned for being arrogant toward their customers, highly incompetent, and insists ....yes insists after being told the facts....on posting false fitment information on their site. You've been warned...
-
search "ome"....you should find all u want to know...
-
Sorry to jack the thread for a bit, but I have a question. I'm okay with the R50's suspension, I just haven't worked on it a lot though.. I was looking at a buddys R50 and he said the front end is having a lot of problems. He said the struts were brand now but the steering was off and it wanders a lot and makes a noise. After looking at it for a minute, when he turned the wheel, the passenger side strut would move. The spring would slightly rotate when ever he turned the wheel. I checked the sway bar and that seemed to be in good shape. I'm thinking to the strut needs to be taken out and checked again. Or should he just retighten down and get an alignment? Thanks for the help
Not real sure what the issue is with your buddy's R50...maybe worn tie rod ends? But the way I'm interpreting your description of struts moving sounds like totally normal function to me. I guess depends what you mean by "move". But yes the entire spring and strut assembly will rotate as normal function when one turns the wheel....as the assembly is fixed to the steering knuckle. They rotate on the bearing....and speaking of bearings...someone mentioned "cheap plastic". I did my struts on my 97 SE last summer. Put in replacement OEM bearings....but honestly the 13 year old "cheap plastic" original ones were functioning perfectly....no play or noticeable wear whatsoever. Only replaced them as I'd already bought the new parts.
-
yeah they only provided copper washers for my front banjos. Also they gave me their 27" line instead of the normal 3" extended line (20")
shown as 9" longer than my 1" extension.
I had to re-use my brass block because theirs was defective and my front flare nuts rounded off before they got loose. (never been touched in 20 yrs).
So yeah It would seem like a straight forward task but mine took all afternoon.
I'm gonna be going with braided lines this summer. AC sent you a defective brass block? That's not a good thing. Anyone else have issues with the 4x4parts braided lines?
-
all proably on the east coast to top it off... bastages
There sure ain't nun(ya) up 'ere in the North Hills!!
-
super tough to find ethanol free gas stations in CA (most are at least some 5-7%). one can only hope that the saying is true, that most pumps have less ethanol in their premium octanes.
That's probably pretty much the case everywhere. A state as big as Pennsylvania has like 15 stations that are alleged to be ethanol free. And if the regulators keep at it there's more ethanol in our future. Worst thing ever.
-
what I can't reconcile is that for my '97 SE the owners manual recommends "AT LEAST 87" for octane. If there were no benefit to running a higher octaneWhy would they state it that way (instead of specifically recommending 87 and 87 alone)....?
I believe I get slightly better performance with 93 octane...and I'm willing to pay the extra money to give up that 0.129 miles per dollar. A number of folks state that running premium can be a waste of money....I don't think it is for me...and in the end ...each of us are entitled to "waste" our money as we wish.
-
For 100.00 you can buy your own scantool, that is insane. My only suggestion is to find a good local small mech shop who has a scanner, most of them should. They are usually pretty good as they want your business. By the way it is a worth while investment, I use mine on the Pathfinder, my wife's ford, a buddie's honda works for all of them. The connector on R50's is industry standard, it should be no problem to pull a code.
Yeah...+1 for sure. I think everyone who has one or more vehicles should have a scanner. The interface is standard on every vehicle sold in the US since 1996. Actually...what SHOULD happen is noone should need a scanner. The biggest scam in the history of the auto industry is that they have this stupid light that comes on that gives you virtually no information whatsoever despite the fact that the precise code indicating the exact error condition is sitting there in the ECU. I think and hope that eventually that the moronic SES light will be replaced by a digital display showing the error code. Then again...they gotta dumb these things down to the lowest common denominator of ignorance. So how about keep the SES light for the driving monkeys...and add a digital display for those with IQ above 40?
-
So i put my pathy in the air today because it has had the death wobble for about a week, while looking I checked the tie rods on both sides, ball joints, and wheel bearings. The only thing I found was the outer tie rod on the driver side was a little loose so I changed it thinking that would help the problem. It didn't, I can't think of what else it could be, it has a new inner tierod on the driver side and now a new outer, the ball joint on the passenger side is brand new and the outer tie rod on that side is new; both wheel bearing are new. It mainly does it when I go above 40mph and sometimes at lower speeds. Any ideas?
Could you describe "it" in a bit more detail? Not clear by your post that you actually have what is commonly referred to as the death wobble. are you experienced an essentially violent rocking of the entire vehicle from side to side at higher speeds? If so, does it temporarily go away by either applying or letting off the throttle and/or applying the brake? If so..then you probably have the rear control arm problem and you'd be wasting your time on the front end.
davekell, yours was not what folks refer to as the death wobble...more likely a tire/wheel balance issue or simply worn tires..
ETA: Never mind....just discovered I'm late to this Groundhog Day Party... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29640&st=20
-
I have a 1997 QX4 with it's SES light on. I have found out I can't use the free universal OBDII scan tool at local auto parts stores.
I was wondering if anyone had an OBDI scan tool or the consult II that would be willing to check my light for me or know somewhere to get one cheap since I am on limited funds.
The dealer is asking $100 to check it.
Thanks for any and all help, it's greatly appreciated!
Why can't you use the OBD2 tool? If your vehicle was sold in the US it had to be OBD2 compliant effective with 1996 model year.
-
If it only happened once I might not worry about it until it happened again. There are some things in life that just don't make much sense.
I could not agree more...on all counts.... and this seems like it will be one of those nonsensical things. Will keep a closer eye on things...and unless and until something else emerges....chock it up to another mystery of the universe. If something does emerge...I'll post back. Thx.
-
I also doubt it's a head gasket problem. I have another theory:
When I had a '98 with the VG33 engine, I had a mysterious coolant leak which took months to diagnose. The problem turned out to be the heater hoses that come out of the back of the engine and go through the firewall to heat the cabin. Somehow one of the short hoses developed a pinhole leak, and would spray a fine mist of coolant towards the engine/transmission. When hot, the coolant would leak as a gas or evaporate on contact with the hot engine, transmission or muffler, leaving absolutely no trace, but right after turning the engine off some small amount of coolant would continue leaking while the system cooled down, and sometimes enough fluid would leak and remain in liquid state to drip down the engine, transmission and exhaust muffler to make it to the ground, where I would occasionaly find a few drops of coolant after letting the car sit for long enough. At first I could not even notice a significant reduction in the coolant level, and it wasn't until the leak got big enough that I began smelling coolant and finally could follow the coolant trail to the leak.
Since I live in Panama, where the cabin heater is completely useless, just got a U-shaped hose and bypassed the hole cabin heater system. Problem solved for less than 5 bucks and 10 minutes of work!!!
Wow...you might be on to something...or not. Here's where I'm at at this point. It's pretty inconceivable that it's a head gasket problem given no other symptoms or indications of such. To recap the facts....long highway drive over an hour...vehicle sits for 48 hours....snow falls overnight two nights later...next morning is very high humidity...start car and move it and observe coolant dripped from front and rear of muffler. So the coolant either got to the muffler via the interior of the exhaust and subsequently leaked out from the front and rear...OR it got to the muffler by travelling along the exterior of the exhaust. Let's look at each. If it got their by the interior it did so not in liquid form but in gaseous form and subsequently condensed out after the exhaust cooled. Reason for that is ...if coolant somehow got into the interior of the exhaust at full operating temperature I presume it would vaporize immediately due to the heat. Then...after the vehicle cooled down...the previously vaporized coolant left remaining in the exhaust system between the muffler and the exhaust manifold condensed back to liquid form...then would have to have been blown out of the exhaust via presumably pinhole leaks at the front and rear of the muffler (the low point in the exhaust system) when the vehicle was started. Alternatively, if it got to the muffler by the exterior of the exhaust system...well...as stated above it would vaporize on contact...or so I believe...if exhaust system is at operating temp. Also, hurting this theory is ...How could coolant have gotten to the BACK part of the muffler? as it would not been able to travel past the flange and front face of the muffler....
I just don't have time to do a pressure test at the moment..but I did check the oil and other than being dirty in need of a change..no signs of water/coolant. Coolant level in reserve tank was at low mark with vehicle cold...where it should be. No visible signs of coolant or any other leak elsewhere on the engine. This is my daily driver and not a drop of anything on the ground since the day of the "incident". Honestly, at this point I think the ambient weather/humidity that day which was very unusual played a role somehow...and also...despite the fact that I without question saw the coolant colored snow on the ground with my own two eyes...I find the sum of the observations extremely difficult to believe/understand/explain. Biggest questions are: HOW did it happen that day? and...Why did it not happen before nor after? I suspect the answer to the first may answer the second....but these are the two questions which totally stump me.
-
Haven't used this yet but am in need of repairing. First it was one horizontal grid line out a few years ago....noticed this morning it's now up to about 5 of them out!! Gotta be more careful with gear I pack in back that must be scratching the grids. Hopefully this stuff will work as claimed...and hope this helps others.
-
Sorry about the double post guys! I'm getting them put on Friday. The $750 is for struts and shocks, all Rancho. I hope they hold up to some off-roading well as I was told, because they'll be getting a test here soon! Heck I've taken it off road with the factory stuff on and never had a real problem, so these babies better handle bumps and stumps like they're not even there!
Holy confusing thread batman. Hard to tell which posts are about struts and which about shocks...or both...Anywho...
Rancho USED to make rear shocks for the R50 but not anymore....They were RSX 17000 and stopped making them in the last 12 months some time....so if your mechanic found some of them you are good to go. If not, they aren't for the R50. RSX 17000s are what I run and been happy with them. Trust nothing on 4x4parts.com for product application info unless you've confirmed it elsewhere. They show Rancho shocks on their site for the R50....5000s I believe...but they are not. Good luck with the Rancho struts...I've heard many folks say they aren't nearly as good as the KYBs...but I have no personal experience with the Rancho struts.
Rubber protection and restoration
in General Forums
Posted
That's my understanding...if it's rubber or some composite thereof and you want to preserve/maintain it...silicone spray is the stuff. As you noted spray form permeates and soaks things well.