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Posts posted by Manifesto
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^_^
haha well I guess those dealers are good for something after all
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Awesome! Thanks!
Let me find the Penzoil fluid online, will also look for the Lucas oil stabilizer. Is there a specific kind of stabilizer? Does it have to be GL-4 compliant?
nope. its just called "Lucas Oil Stabilizer"
that stuff is like... miracle fluid lol can be used throughout the whole power train (except in automatics). 5-20% mixture in motor oil does wonders too. Can also be used in the diffs (no matter the weight). It will say right on the bottle what mixtures to use where, but I personally swear by Lucas products, as they are the only fluid additive that I have ever used that has actually yielded noticeable results
it's pretty thick stuff, so be prepared to have some patience putting it in. I found warming it up by letting it sit on the intake manifold while the motor is running for a few minutes helps. I forget the name of it, but it looks like a giant syringe with 2 feet of 3/8" rubber tube coming out... I picked mine up for $30 from Gregg's distributors and it's a life saver when it comes to refilling the drive lines. I'll poke around and see if I can find the real name for it, I've always just referred to it as "the sucky blowy tool"
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yea... kinda -_-
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I have a 1998 R50 with a manual transmission. In the shop manual it lists the manual transmission fluid as API GL-4 75W-90 only. However when I went to Kragen, Autozone, Napa Auto Parts - no one had a API GL-4 spec fluid.
Even in their store computers it mentioned that GL-5 75W-90 COULD NOT be used.
Any suggestions on either a brand/location to buy the API GL-4 fluid or thoughts on using the GL-5? Also want to know how much of the fluid is required? The store clerk mentioned 10 quarts! But that seems high.
Thanks.
well from what I came to understand while doing the manual trans in my '93 Mazda 626, is that GL5 is BAD to use in GL4 specific applications. Something about GL5 corroding the bronze synchronizers. Red Line and Royal Purple both have GL4 75w90, but the local parts stores here carry synthetic Penzoil stuff too. Long as it meets GL4 requirements, you'll be fine. That is kinda strange that no one would carry it though O.o
Here we have Part Source, Napa and Canadian Tire for larger parts places. Any quick-lube place should carry the stuff, as well as be able to tell you exactly how much your transmission takes. (I think about 3.5 - 4 quarts, but don't quote me on that)
one thing I discovered is that using about a 50/50 mixture of Lucas oil stabilizer, along with the GL4 fluid is a BEAUTIFUL combination. Your trans will shift as smooth as a Honda S2000... which is pretty silky smooth, compared to just straight gear oil
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well... actually my truck sounds like a tractor O.o
but I discovered that the spark plug on cylinder 5 isn't firing, after checking the cap and rotor and both of those looking good,
I'm going to pick up some plugs and wires today
haha I'll be fashioning some tools like you did in your video for that job... hope you didn't patent them yet
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LOL loved the videos
I never could figure out how to use that puller tool... ended up using 2 pry bars and bent my lower cover a little bit...
lesson learned: don't use pry bars to get the balancer off xD nothing my trusty hammer couldn't fix though ^_^
and just checking -- is it 41 teeth, or 41 'wells' in between cam markers O.O
the little piece of paper that came with my napa belt few weeks ago told me 40 teeth
I'm just curious, because I dont really fell like taking the whole deal apart again if I don't have too XD
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it has a problem not starting when it's rainy and moist out.
haha my ex girlfriend's '87 Jetta had the same issue. I just assumed it was a pos and never really looked into it to much O.o
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Install was pretty smooth. Drilled 2 holes in the steel plate for mounting, 3" apart.
Used my eyeball to drill the first hole, then once I had the light mounted with one screw, I used a sharpee to mark the 2nd.
I utilized an original hole already there to feed the wires through (was about 3/16")
As for wiring, I just cut off the ground connectors and spliced them entirely into the factory harness
I couldn't find the exact ones I used, but they're pretty similar to these
The LED's are way brighter than the original incandescent light bulbs that were there before
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ALRIGHTY, so after being pulled over the same day I started driving this beast for not having functional signal lights up front,
I picked up some nifty LED markers from Part Source for $10 each and mounted them up.
A nice little improvement
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ok, looks same as mine. must have been swapped in from a '94+ then
pardon the dirt xD
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I believe round tooth is the newer style 105k interval belts
while the square belts are the older 60k -- as far as I've come to understand anyway.
I still have my top cover off, I'll take some more pics today and show what I have
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argh, I gotta get a hold of Nick -_-
I vaguely remember him saying there was only 15k on the motor since it was swapped in
can't remember what the year was that it was pulled out of...
and I threw the old broken belt away like.. a month ago and wasn't paying attention:(
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lol well... it has a gasket now XD
I wish I had thought about those zip ties earlier, I'll have to remember for next time!
my pathy's a '92 but... a round tooth belt meshed perfectly O.O
are the square tooth and round tooth belts interchangeable??
Nick threw in a lightly used round tooth belt when he sold me the pathy, I gave it a try after the new square tooth one I bought
kept skipping teeth and making my life miserable while trying to install it >_>
OH, and I couldn't really remember where the spring on the tensioner was suppose to sit so... i put it here
is all this right? just... so I know before I bolt it all back together tomorrow
haha Precise, I'll probably do the same thing before i bolt it all up, but it was getting realllly windy and starting to rain by the time I got the belt on today, but that's the same order I went about getting it on too
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www.nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade
**bookmarked for future reference!**
I miss having vg33e power xD
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Well, I've been procrastinating quite a bit, but I finally was able to put in some work. Took everything apart, changed out the water pump and tensioner, as well as pulled the rad out and hosed all the dried mud out of the fins (there was ALOT) and reinstalled it.
All that's left now is to install the new timing belt which... is proving kind of tricky
I swear I need 4 hands to pull this stunt off XD I get the belt positioned on the crank, and then I'll get it on one of the cams while ratcheting into position, then fight to get rid of the slack on one side and get it where I need it so I can get it on the other cam while trying to get that cam in position, just to see that the belt had come off the crank and skipped 3 teeth >_<
I gave up after about an hour of this -_-
I had the new tensioner on, but I tightened it so I would have as much slack as it would allow, would it be easier to install the new tensioner AFTER the belt is on? Yes, I read the How To, I know what I have to do, it's just DOING it that is proving problematic.
Also, while replacing the thermostat I realized that it hadn't come with a new gasket... I went ahead and made a gasket out of a cigarette pack and spray tack, as well as put a tiny bead of black gasket silicone type sealer around the thermostat before I threw it in, so I'm pretty confident that it will hold.
ONE MORE thing, slightly off topic... without realizing, I was able to turn the crank with a wrench while it was still in 1st gear... is my clutch gone O.o?
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Edit ***
Moving to The garage
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HAHA thank you Precise1. Well, I've been procrastinating quite a bit, focusing my attention elsewhere but finally got to work on her. After my buddy 'towed' it home for me (which was just throwing a recovery strap around the rear axle of his old chevy (his bumper rusted off and wasnt much else to hook onto lol) and pulling me 40 blocks through city traffic (omg big tires and no power brakes are scary... established that the parking brake works)
Yesterday I changed out the water pump and tensioner, as well as pulled the rad out and hosed all the dried mud out of the fins (there was ALOT) and reinstalled it.
All that's left now is to install the new timing belt which... is proving kind of tricky
I swear I need 4 hands to pull this stunt off XD I get the belt positioned on the crank, and then I'll get it on one of the cams while ratcheting into position, then fight to get rid of the slack on one side and get it where I need it so I can get it on the other cam while trying to get that cam in position, just to see that the belt had come off the crank and skipped 3 teeth >_<
I gave up after about an hour of this -_-
I had the new tensioner on, but I tightened it so I would have as much slack as it would allow, would it be easier to install the new tensioner AFTER the belt is on?
Also, while replacing the thermostat I realized that it hadn't come with a new gasket... I went ahead and made a gasket out of a cigarette pack and spray tack, as well as put a tiny bead of black gasket silicone type sealer around the thermostat before I threw it in, so I'm hoping it all holds lol.
ONE MORE thing... without realizing, I was able to turn the crank with a wrench while it was still in 1st gear... is my clutch gone O.o?
I should probably be writing in a tech section but... oh well, I already started here
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@Dave - oh great, thanks for the link, I'll give them a call right away today
REALLY good to know
@Precise - thanks for the info. I've got it pretty much all torn down, just waiting for a new water pump. Those cam and crank seals are pretty cheap, how much is involved in replacing those?
I think I can already tell that a repair manual will be a good investment for this thing lol
@Dowser - Yep, I'm the guy. Lol the ashtray is still full of his business cards haha. I've already got a few buds hounding me to hurry up and get this thing finished, we already managed to get an '84 Chevy pretty stuck... and then the Ford Ranger that was supposed to pull him out wouldn't start... so now nobody's going back out until I've got the pathfinder around to bail them out XD. Going out with some seasoned wheelers would be a great experience too, so I'll have to check out that TNTGP group sometime too
and yes, you'll be the first one I call errr message IF I ever part it out. You may not have to wait tooo too terribly long, it's got a crap load of rust, and I bought this thing so I'd have something to beat on instead of wrecking all the new cars I buy, I'm hoping it lasts longer than the R50 did XD
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ha, I'm not sure about ALL of us, but the majority of the people I hang out with are all a bit unstable lol
anyyy way, timing belt is coming along, just waiting for some parts to come in from Nissan.
soon as I started loosening up the timing cover, coolant starting dripping out, its pretty nasty in there- looks to be coming from the pump
so I'm going to replace the pump seals for sure. Should I replace the water pump itself since I'm taking it out? And how hard is the oil pump to get at on these motors?
Both pumps still work, I'm just wondering what all I can replace while I have it all apart O.O
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oh noes, what have I done? XD
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i look forward to seeing what this thing can do
I'll post pictures of my progress
guess I'll find out tomorrow, but it would be wicked awesome if all the valves are good
if not - well I've already taken the liberty of locating a wrecked '95 Pathy with a VG30E at the local scrap yard with the motor intact if i need parts
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haha thanks. She ain't pretty that's for sure -- it's going to be nice out this weekend here so I'm hoping to get that timing belt done and hit the trails
I dooooo miss that R50 though XD
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304000km on my '92
there was 198000km on the R50 before it died... the good die young XD
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OH
and the '92 pathy has a yellow stripe now
I'll get more pics of how it looks now- sometime this week
but here it is on the way to the shop
can you spot the R50?
;P
Stubby Pathy
in General Forums
Posted
haha I'd drive it![:)](https://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/uploads/emoticons/Set_2_smile.gif)