hardlydangerous

The 93 needs work before it can be driven so I plan to tow it home. The fuel tank needs to be repaired as well as the lines and a few other things its 265KM away from my home/shop so CAA is out of the question. I have a car dolly available so... what is the best way? make sure the hubs are unlocked, lock the steering, back it on and tow it backwards? Or remove the driveshaft and tow it forwards?

I have used hockey pucks for several cab mounts and lifts on jeeps, S-10's and even fullsize PU's as well as engine/trans mounts. lifts as high as 4" I have never had any issues with using them. Ive never had them break or crack. Most are aprox 1" so if using 2 mark the center, tape two together and drill them out. This keeps them nice and even. I have a ton of fairly new pucks and I'll be using them when I do my 3" lift.

Synthetic reall help to keep theings cooler and lasting longer, and wont gunk up like mineral based atfs do. there are several synthetics on the market that at DexIII/Merc and far better then conventional ATF's

I recommend Amsoil Severe gear 75W-90 for differentials w/wo LSDs. Or mobil 1 75W-90 For lockers and LSD's I recommend, Amsoil Slip-lock additive. Last fluid change you will ever need with the Amsoil. If you want to change the fluid, simply drain it, filiter it through a coffee filter and re-use. betacuse this is a pure synthetic, water wont mix, The coffee filter will remove any water and harmful debris and make it safe for re-use. Yhe mobil1 is cheaper but a mineral based product that will need to be changed more often.

I think I would keep the front open or find a LSD...

like I said I have run a mini spool and welded diff in trucks before but... one was a 9" ford (VERY STRONG) the only other set up was a mini spool in a stock chevy s-10 so I understand about the tire wear completely. The truck will not be a dialy driver, just a back up machine, hauling bikes to the track, off roading and winter beater. No city town driving around here I have never run a welded diff on a small stuck/SUV. I know some of the Subaru, DSM and nissan cars run them and its said that the lighter diffs tend to break pretty easy. If these are a fairly strong differential then I would have no problem mig welding one up solid. but if they tend to have issues then I would rather leave it stock.

Thats just too funny....

Has anyone tried or currently running a welled diff or two? I had a welded 9" ford diff in my 84 s-10 w/400sb and mini spool in my 99 Chevy Xtreme. I never had any issues but these were street/drag machines with low pro tires, never used off road. I plan on wheelin this truck, but keeping fairly small tires on it, maybe 31's. I would love to have a locker but thats a lot of coin to spend on a bugdet build. If these diffs are strong enough I think I would just weld up the rear. Any thoughts?

Has anyone ever tried flushing out the radiator and stock ATF heat exchanger in the radiator? I know there are a ton of products out there for cleaning and refinishing fuel tanks and radiators that would work well, For most off road radiators I have used POR15 Marine clean or castrol superclean, setting the radiator in a wall paper tray of either solvent overnight should clean them out and ready them to be flushed. the external cooler I would say is a must for the offroader. it keeps the temps cooler then an exchanger on a radiator ever could, but for the average dialy driver a good cleaning could save you a lot of $$$