jgt
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Posts posted by jgt
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could it be the igition switch?? mine has gone bad 2x
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That was my first question. How'd you do that? Don't feel bad I've lost one before.
Transferred a 2wd engine to a 4wd truck, which has a smaller oil pan. We swtiched oil pans but didn't switch dipsticks and the 2wd engine has a longer one....snapp! Thanks for the offer dagwoodzz, I'll pm you! I'd try the junkyard here, but they charged $40 for a doorlatch mechanism once, so it's not like stuff is cheap there. -julie
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you guys are a bunch of smart grease monkeys! Yeah, just the big squarish tip of the dipstick broke off. I'll give pulling the tube out a go tomorrow casey, thanks. If not, I'll do the magnet trick. The fact that there was already a broken tip from the 2wd motor swap *might* have something to do it breaking again or getting stuck!! duh...
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The end of my oil dipstick decided to break off today. Is there any way to retreive it in the oil pan during the next oil change? Anyone out there w/ an extra dip stick for a '92 4x4 pathy? The auto stores don't carry them and said to goto the dealership for one. thanks, julie
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Hi all-there's a wd21 4x4 who's interior parts that I will pull tomorrow. Since we don't have many JY or partouts here in the islands, I was thinking of hording a few parts that may eventually go on the ol' pathy. I was thinking MAF, ecu, auto locking hubs, the plastic lenses... What else would you pull to hold onto 'just in case'? thanks!
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She's up and running and not barfing oil. Replaced the cracked nylon hose w/ a VDO copper one and new fittings. I think UNCC was right about the cracked housing. There was a tiny hole in the nylon tubing that I found also. Anyhow that did the trick, must have been a combination of both to cause such a big leak. The guy at napa said he like nylon ones better (with some kind of insulation) because the copper ones cracked. Can't win huh??
I didn't put any teflon on the threads, hope it'll be okay. No leaks on my 5 minute test. What's your guys's psi during idle? It seems a little lower than I remember, but maybe I'm just paranoid now. The manual says 9 psi at idle and 53-65 at 3200 rpms. Anyhoo, another lesson learn for the newbie. Thanks crew! - julieahhh, out of a Hardbody and not a Max, there may not be a plug, Did you swap oil pans??? the only things on that side of the motor are the Oil Sending Unit Known for blowing out, the Oil Filter, dual seals, and holes in the filter have been noted but cracking the mounting surface, thats not an easy thing to do.You should hang out with us more
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yes the motor was from a 2wd 94 hardbody. Gary may have plugged up a hole while he was working on the motor. Wait, I think that was cuz the '94 was auto transmission, I have a 5 spd. Anyhow, I will check that brass plug also. Big mahalos for the replies everybody, I'll keep y'all updated. -j
Our VG's had multiple uses... most common would have been a Pre 92 Maxima and some of the Zcars... On the Max the motor sits sideways and the dipstick is on the front of the motor, on ours the Passenger side... its a little 1/4 sized plug that was used to "Plug" the hole when the hole was not being used for the dipstick... If you have a swapped motor or were in the oil pan area it could have come loose.... I just went out and looked at the block I have in the garage... Its just in front of the oil filter at the base of the block where the pan meets it... Slim chance, but a possibility...I remember you doing some serious engine work... Dont remember if it was just top end stuff or if you did a swap... hence the brass plug.
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thanks for the replies, i'll replace the sending unit along with the new filter tomorrow. I had no idea it would gush out that severely though. Also, casey, what is the brass plug you are talking about?
-julie
Oil on the starter and the filter would suggest the Oil Sending Unit..... when it blows its a big mess, fast...The only other things I can think of would be:
The brass plug (dipstick location on passenger side)
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hi slick
nothing is a stupid question for me. When I say spewing, I really mean it's gushing out from up top somewhere. Like it'll start up okay, gimme like 20-30 psi reading on the gauge, then blam...oil everywhere on the ground. A least a quart in 10 seconds. It's a mess. I mean, if it's coming from the RMS, why would there be oil spewed up on the filter and above the starter? Like I said, I need to look at it closer. The mess that I made (twice) was a bummer, so I took a day off. So, thanks for the reply, it wasn't the drain plug, it's coming from up. any other guessess?
stupid question, but have you checked to make sure your oil drain plug is in tight enough? -
I was gonna wait until tomorrow to post, but I'm bored at work now. So this weekend, I took off the exhaust manifold shields to look at the broken stud. I took out the rattling broken end and decided to change the oil also. The manifold shields are 2 piece, and I replaced the top one and left off the bottom one off. Drove 20 miles no problem. The next day, I drive down the road, smell burning oil and look down at my oil pressure gauge, which was reading 0. I stopped before the engine seized, got towed home. I refilled the oil, (was bone dry) double checked the sending unit tightness and started it up again. It barfed oil all over the ground. I figured it was my oil filter. So I put on the old oil filter which was still in the garage, refilled the oil and again it spewed oil all over the ground. I am taking a break now. Could I have done anything wrong by leaving the lower shield off? The sending unit nylon tubing was close, but looked fine. Anyhow, it wouldn't gush oil out anyhow, just squirt. It seems to be coming from under the oil filter, but I'm not certain.
btw, the old gasket was not stuck, I double checked and everything was clean and clear for the new filter.
Do you think it's 'possible' that it's faulty gaskets on the filter? I'm not thinking so, but hoping its a fram thing.
Do you think it's the RMS? And did me messing w/ the manifold area cause this? I'm missing my mechanic friend who helped me on the project. I'm not giving up though! Sorry, probably an obvious diagnosis, I just had to share before heading back to look at my mess tomorrow. thanks - julie
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hi, I already posted this a while back in the garage re: a 'tick', sorry in advance for the repeat.
http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry250231
I was wondering if driving w/ a broken manifold stud is doing damage to my engine? I have read on the internet that it does damage to the cylinders, but I trust y'all to gimme the truth. thanks.
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slick-
thanks for the reply. yes, both inner and outer tre need to be replaced. How about the idler arm? Should I do it at one time, or does it matter if I do the tre or idler arm first? btw, slick, I have seen your truck online and your website. You are a wrench goddess, thanks for the inspiration.
-jules
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is this a fairly *easy* job? Will a newb be able to do this and do I need special tools?
it's on a 92 pathy, they won't align it before these items are replaced. I'm just trying to save $ a little if I can.
inner/outer tre, idler arm, wheel bearings..$700 quote including alignment.
thanks
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Tick
in The Garage
argh. thanks alot. We replaced 2 of the studs (they were missing on the used engine) when we put the engine in. I wanted to replace all of them, but my mechanic said no. Thank, so that's the ticking? Is it a piece of the bolt rattling around?
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Tick
in The Garage
thanks guys. Look at this, could this cause it? Don't remember this at all when we put the engine in.
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Tick
in The Garage
hi guys/gals-
I have a 92 4x4 manual pathfinder w/ a '94 engine that we installed a few months back. Everything works great still on in, but probably a month later, it developed a tick sound from the engine. How can I tell if it's the lifters or ?? and is there anything I can do to check if it is that? (thicker oil, or ??) I read about seafoam, but kinda scared to use it cuz I'm not leaking oil and everything else is fine. I'm in Hawaii so I think I can run thicker oil. The engine has 85k on it. Thanks everyone. - julie
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Hi all, got a question that I'm sure someone here would know the answer to. So I've posted pix of the motor that a friend help me put into my 92 4x4 pathfinder, he also replaced the rt. inner cv boot. Now, after he did that the steering wheel is crooked and is pulling to the right. So I brought it into goodyear to have an alignment. They said they couldn't do it because the steering wasn't tight and ball joints and centerlink needs replacing before the alignment, $1100 estimate. My question is, could it have been something we did during the engine swap process? ie, droppping the front axle and stuff? I don't recall the loose steering and there was no pulling to the rt. side before we replaced the Rt. CV boot. Or do you think th is coincidence? Thanks, just another newbie question
thanks -julie -
I had a leak also and thought it was the rear main seal. When we took the engine out, it was the rubber gasket on the rear of the oil pan. My mechanic thinks it was pinched when the guy replaced the clutch. Oh, then another oil leak a few weeks later. This time it was from the oil sending unit. We stripped the brass nut on the aftermark oil gauge. Replaced it and all is good, not a drop now.
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have a '92 XE w/ 105 miles. It has had 2 new ignition switches.
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figured it out, looked in the elect. part of the service manual and saw the int. lights were 'battery'. So that was the 10amp fuse that I took out to replace the blown radio 10amp fuse. I suppose that makes sense that the int dome lights have a constant power, shheesh.
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while installing a new cd deck, I think I blew the fuse to the 12v constant (yellow wire). Called crutchfield and they helped my troubleshoot it (works when we hot-wire it to switched red wire) but no power when when wired to yellow.
He said there should be 2 10amp radio fuses. I only see 1 10amp fuse for the radio. What am I not seeing? This is for a 92 XE w/ no stock amp. What are the large relays above the fuses in the fuse box? Thanks to anyone who can tell me where the fuse it is that I blew. - jules
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My 92 pathfinder has had 2 ignition swtiches within the last 2 1/2 years for not starting. It's been 3 months since the last one and it starts up every time.
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done, just have another day or so to finish up the door and interior stuff. This is the first time I've ever seen a car painted, engine installed and welding done so it was a very cool to see the final results.
-juleshere's a link for a few more pix
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/322667/index.html
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let the fun begin. It'll take a few days, but so far I really like the color. It looks more like a pewter with a hint of green, I think it's beautiful. Also going to reupholster the interior (faux tan/leather).
split cv boot?
in The Garage
Posted
okay, I have read bad stuff about these and know that the reman. axle is the way to go, but it's a beater truck and I'm keeping costs down. My passenger outer boot split this weekend and it still has grease, no noises. I am pretty sure I caught it right away, within a day or two. My friend helped me replace the inner boot on this side a year ago, so I know it's too much work for me to try alone. What are your experiences with these? $20 and I can do it myself, or $200 and get a reman. axle and pay a mechanic?