jgt
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Posts posted by jgt
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I have an extra headlight/turn switch if your cleaning doesn't work. Just take a pix of the pins to make sure it's the same. good luck. -julie
I may have found a solution i found this on another forum any insight would be appreciated"Hello, I had the same problem on my 95' with the tail lights not coming on with the headlights or shutting off when driving (great no one could see me from behind). It's the turnsignal-headlight switch. I fixed this easly
in 30 minutes. Underneath the steering wheel remove the 4 screws that hold the bottom half of the steering wheel bezel. Once you have those off you can lift the top half of the bezel a bit to get to the two screws that hold the switch in place. Remove switch and take inside your home / or shop. There is a plastic plate that covers the where the
contacts are. That plate is about a 1 1/2" roughly square. I forget if it has screws or not , unscrew and or pry to pop that piece of plastic off. You will now see 4 or five contact legs. One for the headlamps 1 for taillamps and 2 turnsiganl contact legs. From turning headlights on/off alot they get unsprung a bit and will make little contact with the other mating surface. I used a small screw driver
to bend them towards the inside of the switch so they could make good contact. Take the switch in your hand and turn it on , you will see a one or two legs that have lost some off the orginal bend to make contact (thats the brake lights, use a small screw driver or you thumb to bend then inwards a bit to match the other legs. You could also use a very small pair of needle nose to bend the legs downword towards the other mating surface. My tail lights worked after this fix and i haven't had a problem in the year that i did this fix. good luck it works! Take your time to understand where and how the contact legs go to make a connection."
i'm headed out now to try it
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<rephrase>
even a noob can do it! :tonguefinger:
LOL, don't let Slick or Pezzy hear that!! I ain't buying it either...
B
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And if you take it out AND start the engine...YES oil will come gushing out....fast. Mine was replaced w/ a sending unit w/ a gauge (not just a dummy light) and the nylon wire got too close to the exhaust manifold. BRAAP oil all over. I replaced it w/ a copper one and all is good. Just get a new sending unit and do it yourself. Takes 10 minutes and even a girl can do it!
Yea I just saw the part its about 20 bucks.I don't see how this 'failing' causes a leak. It looks like its just a bolt. If i unscrew it, will oil come rushing out I wonder? lol better grab a pan tomorow just in case!
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The black end of the switch has a spring mechanism and it was slightly sticking out and needed to be flush for maintaining accessory/run positions. I could push it in and out and feel the spring return. I may have pulled it out a little when I removed the covers. The blower and turn signals would work intermittently depending on how the key was engaged. And when Mark looked down and saw that black plastic piece not flush, he knew that was the problem. He just tapped the end to make the contact tight so there was no spring release. Since I've been through 3 ignition switches, I bet that has been the issue everytime.
Here's a guy w/ a 92 rangerover that had the same issue
http://www.jpurnell.com/rr/repairs/IgnitionSwitch.htm
Sorry, I missed this one. What was it doing (or not doing)?B
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figured it!! Was the spring on the ignition switch. Friend helped me trouble shoot it and tapped the end back in place with a hammer and screwdriver, voila.
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Mine was a missing spring. Didn't want to open, but if I pulled the hood release, someone else could wriggle it open. Check to see if the spring is missing. Cost $3 for the spring at napa, didn't need to replace the whole latch. hope it works.
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okay, folks help me out here. I think I may have shorted something when I changed the ground cable. I checked the fuel pump fuse and it looks good. My mechanic friend doubts its the fuel pump relay but thinks I shorted a fuse or something. any ideas?
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pre 7/92 would be titled and have a v.i.n. for a 1992 and post would be a 1993 if I remember correctly. It's right around that time the model year changes.
so are you saying, if my title says it's a 1992, then it's pre 7/92 production date? and if it were produced after, the title would say 1993? Thanks, the vin and emblem no. has no clues.
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When we repainted the truck, we sanded the sticker on the door w/ the production date. I need a part and some fit pre-7/92 and then another part after that date. Is there another way to tell? The truck was bought new in 10/92 so it could be either. thanks
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yep, was the battery ground strap! did the trick.
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where's the best place to buy them? Ebay is like $175 for warn, is that the best deal around? thanks
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hi soccerstud-I have a wiper switch for sale, email me if you are interested. My switch also is bad, but it didn't fit my '92 pathy. Came off a '94 or'95-julie
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hi all, I disconnected the (-) terminal on the battery so I could clean my wiper switch assembly. When I went back to reconnect to the battery, I snapped the old terminal. I cut/stripped the old wire and bought a heavy duty terminal replacement at walmart. Now the engine dies immediately after I start it up. Could it be the ground strap that connects onto the negative terminal? It's corroded very badly and btw, what is the purpose of this ground strap? I cleaned everything up and retightened it but it still dies asap. What do you think is my issue? I could buy a new ground cable, but thought I'd save a few bucks as the cable wasn't horrible. thanks guys . -julie
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yep, thanks redpath. It certainly is the hp hose. Is install difficult? Will I have to remove the fan to get to it? thanks
If this is the line that goes from the PS Pump to the steering box, then you need to get a pre made line with the ends already installed, replacement. Either from a parts store, a hose specialty shop (who can make them) or from Nissan them self.If it is the line that goes from the PS Pump to the Reservoir then you just need some good quality pressure hose, which you can get from a hydraulics or hose shop
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hi all. I just found the leaking p/s culprit. Looks like the high pressure hose, the one that goes from the pump. When I look it up on checkers, it listes return or p/s hose. Is the return hose the low pressure one? Will I need to get the entire p/s hose? Anybody done this and can give me advice on replacement? thanks, any info appreciated. -julie
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hi guys-i did a search and found this old post,it's exactly what I needed to know. Where can I find this missing spring? can anyone tell me what the length/size is? thanks, julie
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uhmm, update, ima stupid noob.
So I finally get a day off and get a pair of gloves on to better inspect my boots. They are not ripped. There was tons of green grease all along the creases of the cv boots, so I assumed that's where they were oozing from. When I wiped it off, there was no tear. I'm not talking a little grease, like someone took a huge handful of grease and splattered it under my truck. anyhow, like I had mentioned the tie rod end and upper/lower ball joints were replaced as was the centerlink. So I have no idea where that grease came from, it look just like the green goop that came in the package when we replaced the boot last year. Anyhow, I'll just keep an eye out for where that's coming from, but can't find a tear when I run my finger across the boots. The ball joints/centerlink doesn't use that type of grease does it? Thanks for the input. -julie -
thanks a ton guys. I will certainly look under the truck in the am and see if the clamps were cut or it something is hanging down on it. I suppose I should have the torsion bars checked also when I get these boot changed. Oh well, so much for saving a few bucks and having students at the CC do it.
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I never put a lift on it, but I'm wondering if the torsion bars were cranked up a bit by the previous owner. That's a good one to bring up to the mechanic. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing happening? Thanks
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Just had 3 of my 4 boots rip. So I had brand new axles installed. Hasn't been 1 tank of gas, now 2 of these have ripped. They replaced the axles, ball joints (upper and lower) 1 tie rod end and the centerlink at the same time. I used the 4wd in sand the other day for like 1 minute max. I think that's doing something. Any ideas? It was done at the college shop, so it was students doing it. Could they have done anything to cause this? My last cv's only last 10k and that's not 4 wheelin' like you guys. Thanks, julie
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rusted hood latch and has trouble opening and shutting. Tried lubing it but still a bugger. I found one on ebay, it's a 1992 2wd pickup. I assume it's the same? Does anyone know before I buy it now? thanks, julie
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Julie... you had your motor out didnt you... And you replaced/fixed the broken stud or 2? Re torque time or you have something else thats tapping...
yeah casey, we replaced 2 studs that were broke. But left in the ones that were in there, I had already asked too much from my friend and he didn't want to replace the 'good' ones even though I knew they were weak. Just one busted one and a tap that won't go away, I'm okay w/ it. On a good note, I've got NEW cv axles (r/l) and new tie rod ends, upper/lower ball joints and a new centerlink. Finally getting a proper alignment now and the front end will be solid. Can't wait til next monday when all will be finished!
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i've heard $500 labor from a mechanic recently. I've decided to live w/ the tapping.
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okay, reman half shaft it is. Thanks guys.-julie
*Tick* Tick* tick* sound comming from engine
in The Garage
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I had noise and it was a simple fix. The lower portion of the fan shroud wasn't seated properly and was 'barely' touching pulley wheels/belt during vibration. Doubt that's your problem, but doesn't hurt to check.