Northeaster

Have not had time to try removing the front shaft yet, hopefully this weekend. I am also leaning towards the torque converter. My brother is a mechanic, but lives 5 hours away, so I can't get him lo look at it. He did tell me to try turning off overdrive / pushing in tow button, to see if it still did it. It seems to still shudder somewhat, but doesn't clunk or shudder as hard, so this may be leaning me to think it is the torque converter.

Thanks for the advice. I should have just taken the front on off first, and did a test drive like you said, and then I would not have did all the work to remove the back ones, which really looked to be in good shape. The only problem with a test drive, is that the problem didn't show up again until about a 1/2 hour of driving after putting the back shaft back in. Not sure why - maybe coincidence, or maybe because the fluids were very cold. I never really noticed if the problem shows up more when the truck is warm, than in the 1st few minutes of driving.

Hi folks, I have a 2000 SE, 3.3litre, 4 wheel drive. (has about 170,000 miles on it) Like the title says, I get an intermittent slight clunk or knock, sometimes accompanied by a vibration that stops after a couple of seconds, as I accelerate more, or let off the gas. It doesn't do it all of the time, but I think it does it in 4 wheel drive, as well as 2wheel drive, where it spends most of the time. I thought it maye be the rear drive shaft U joints, so I replaced those. Old ones looked good anyway, lots of grease, not sticking or anything. When I put shaft back in, and drove for 30 minutes, I thought I had it beat, but then it started again.... Could the front shaft U joints make the truck clunk / shake when applying the gas in 2 wheel drive?? Or, is it more likley the torque converter, or something else?? Any help would be appreciated!!

Sorry to bump an old post, but I am still having the same trouble - doesn't usually come out of 4high, until I stop and usually have to put it in reverse for a second. I changed the transfer case fluid a couple of weeks ago, and it did not make a difference. I have not tried checking the linkage yet, and not sure how complicated that is. Drive often on roads which can be snow covered, then clear, back and forth, so it would be nice to be able to shift on the fly again! Anyone know where to look next?

Hey Folks, My 2000 pathfinder SE has always worked well. The shift on the fly would allow me to put it in 4x4 while going up to about 60mph or more, and would come out easily as well. Usually, when going back to 2 wheel drive, it would take a few seconds to disengage, and would go quicker if I hit the gas a bit, and then coasted / let off for a couple of seconds. A couple of months ago, I had to pull my brother's Chevy Avalanche out of the mud. He was really buried, hung up on the body a bit, so I had to give it a couple of good jerks on the tow rope, to get him moving. Since then, I have noticed that it will not go back into 2 wheel drive easily while driving. I usually have to pull over, try park or neutral, and sometimes turn the engine off and back on, before the 4x4 light will go out, and it will disengage. It is not just the light either, as I can tell by the ride, when it stays in 4x4. Any thoughts?

Simon - which fusepanel was the antitheft fuse in? Under the dash, I don't see any. Next to the battery - there is a small 7.5 amp fuse ofr antitheft horn (regular horn stops working when I pull this) - there is also one for "horn" doesn't seem to do anything when I take it out - horn still works Fuse / breakers on driver's side, next to engine, on fender well - I have removed the "anti-theft headlight" square breaker, but there has never been anything in the ones marked "antitheft" or anti-theft horn" as they are vacant and there is no place to plug them in - but it is marked on the pastic cover. By the way, which horn is the real horn and which is the antitheft horn - one is located between grill and radiator, and the other is beside engine, next to battery. Is there a 3rd horn somewhere? Maybe someone can shed some light on this!!

Hi guys, I am new to this forum, and hope that someone could take a minute to help! My alarm hasn't gone off in the last week or so, but I would like to have some input, please! If anyone could tell me what the normal security light sequence is when locking a door, I would really appreciate it! Of course, and advice on how to troubleshoot or disable the alarm would be evn better! Thanks.

Wish I would have seen this thread a bit sooner. I went through the same thing a couple of months ago. Butm, in my case, the way too small 6m holes stripped out easily when we tried to pull it off. I would have tried drilling and tapping them larger, but there isn't much room in there, and I didn't want to take the rad all the way out. I ended up using a hack saw blade to cut a couple of notches in the balancer, so I could attach a jaw puller - it just fit around the back without damaging the timing cover. My brother is a mechanic, and helped me with most of it. He said it is common for the balancer to go, (mine has 130,000 miles or so). We wanted to do the timing chain, and he said before we started that I should be prepared to buy a new balancer. Mine had completely came apart, and spun about 1/3 turn, and lodged tight again, about 1/4" towards the back of engine. It was wearing the power steering belt edge a bit. Would have came loose again eventually, so I am glad we found it while doing the timing belt. Was easy to see it had spun as the timing mark on the crank was way off, when we lined up the 2 camshaft points, before taking it off.

Hi guys, I have had my 2000 SE for about 7 years. Had been rolled over - bought as a rebuilt / new roof. Has worked well, bought at 35,000 miles and have put a hundred thou more on it. I never got a remote door opener with it. Have always just used the power lock button to lock and the key in driver's door to unlock and disarm the alarm. I have had some trouble over the years with the factory alarm going off for no reason. It may only do it once every couple of months, but it is always at the worst time - like 2 am. I am sure that it hasn't been break in attempts (at least most times). I do not need an alarm, and would be happy to disconnect it, if someone can tell me how, or I will try to fix it, if there are some suggestions. I have previously tried to kill it, by removing anti-theft fuses, anti-theft swithes/ breakers, disconnecting one of the two horns (on is near grill, the other rear of battery). The headlights used to come on as well as the horn, when it went off. I was able to remove the breaker for that, so that now only the horn sounds. I have read before about possible defective door sensors / swithes. Can someone tell me more about them, where thye are located / how to check them. I remember on old cars, they used to have the little door switches in the door jambs (like a refridgerator door). However, it does not have those, so are thee part of the hinge assembly or what? When I flip on the power lock and close the door, the red dash alarm light goes from flashing to solid, for about 30 seconds - 1 minute, and then goes back to flashing. When I unlock and open the door, it stays flashing. Is it armed when flashing??? Because I have tried to set it off on purpose, to understand it a bit Have locked / closed door with window down, and then tried reaching in, opening lock maually, and even starting vehicle, and it did not go off!! But it goes off for no reason later!! Help!!! I have read that there is a box under the driver's seat, but haven't had a look at it, yet. I would really appreciate it if someone could give me a step by step on how to kill the alarm, or how to troubleshoot it!! I guess I would have to put back all of the fuses and switch/breakers, before testing further.