why3zx

So I finally got a dry day and tossed them on, out of the truck the two sets of springs are identical, same in every way, but the spring rate on the troopers must be a little heavier, cuz I did get about an inch of lift out of it, matches the fully cranked t-bars really well, however I'm not sure if it would be enough to try and go find a set. Of you already had some it may be worth your time to toss them on tho, I have some pics if anyone cares but sure you can imagine what an inch looks like.

well, i will get some pics when i try it, i am relagated to the driveway shop right now and it hasnt quit snowing

Anyone ever tried Isuzu trooper coils for the back of a pathy for some lift? i have two sets kicking around, one looks noticably heavier than the other, and they are longer for sure than the pathy ones, and it would make sense that the trooper being a heavier vehicle that it would give some lift, who knows, but my back springs are shot so i may just give it a try this weekend and see what comes of it.

other than make the brake light come on on the dash??

im confused, is the ball joint taper loose from the steering knuckle? i am understanding that the taper is still in the knuckle and the a arm bolts are out of the ball joint, and the sticking that you are refering to is from the interface of the ball joint to the a-arm? if you are replacing ball joints the taper into the knuckle is most likely going to be much more of an issue, i would put a couple of bolts back in, the a little trick a buddy of mine that works at a front end shop told me, jack up the truck by the frame, allow the tension of the torsion bars to pull the suspension down, take the nut off of the ball joint, then tap on the knuckle, perpendicular to the ball joint shaft, it will break free. then pull the upper a arm up take the bolts out of the interface and pound the old ball joint off with a hammer. but that said, it will break free with some force, dont have anything under the lower arm when it happens.

real question is will whichever fluid it happens to be destroy my clutch? making the decision wether this is a project for this weekend or for next summer

oh yeah, unfortionatly it is coming from my truck, that was my first thought when i saw it at the gas station.."ill bet it was the last guy" with a little hope and denial sweetning the thought. it is coming from where the shift fork protrudes from the bell housing of the transmission, to meaning either gear oil or motor oil. i was going to do a little more looking into the situation but slept till 6pm, had to be to work in 20 min and it was already dark,gotta love working nights. either way i will figure out which it is and get back with you guys. but either trans input seal or rear main, neither sound like something i am too excited about repairing.

cant think that it wouldnt get on the clutch, that flywheel is spinning all around and the pressure plate shroud doesnt fit that well i dont think, however i have never been into a clutch on a pathy so i really cant say for sure, and my clutch doesnt seem to show any sign of slipping or what not. so who knows, someone on here will i suspect.

so, in preperation for a 1000mile hunting trip to a semi back country area in idaho, changed the oil and the gear oil in the tranny this past week, had to use 75-140 in the tranny as it was the only GL4 i could find, (seems to run fine, shifts are a little stiff until its warmed up)everything looked good, oil was BLACK from the seafoam treatment, but the gear oil looked fine, pumped 5 quarts of 140 into the tranny with the truck up on a jack, (not easy to do at 22deg, that stuff is like honey at that temp). so i hunt for four days, beat the piss out of the truck, load a deer in the back and head back for home... stop for gas and look under the truck to find a puddle on the ground, maybe apple size, not too bad, and i was hoping it was the last person who gassed up so i head home and check under it when i get there, yup, another puddle. doesnt drip that i can tell when the engine isnt running and honestly i havent looked when it is but assuming that when theres oil pressure is when its leaking. now the bad part, seems all the oil, assuming that is what it is, it feels thicker but its on the cold ground when i feel it, and its black, the oil that came out of the tranny was really clear, and i cant seemt to think that the new oil would blacken in 1k miles, anyway, it seems that it is all coming out of the hole that the clutch fork protrudes out of.... this to me means bad rear main. damnit. no being a second rig i would just be happy to put oil in the thing till summer hits and it warms up, but im thinking that this clutch wont last very long in an oil bath... so what do you think? sound like a rear main seal? any tips for doing this little project, especially since im between actuall homes and dont have a garage to work in? thanks!

so, to anyone on this forum that hasnt done it, DO IT! took me 45min, was able to scrounge all of the parts and wires from the parts bin, made a day/night (haha) diff in the headlight brightness. very good upgrade!

hey, thanks guys, i think im just gonna hit up the parts store tomorrow and wire in a couple of relays, was thinking about doing this anyway, without really thinking about the fact that it might give me a better light output. icing on the cake.

ok, new to the forum, question for the gurus (although it probably wont take a guru) bought a beater 94 SE for a hunting rig, 174k on the clock, man trans, and man i am impressed as hell with this little rig, runs like a top and its nice to have a light short wheelbase 4x4 again. now i am working on fixing the bugs are repairing the POs hack jobs, however noticed i only had one bright, well no brainer, picked up a set of bulbs and popped them in and viola!!! sh*t.... nothing. left headlight, low beam works, high does not. so i checked the incoming wires, just as i figured, voltage to the low, nothing to the high, ground is good. pins in plug seem to be fine. i have read that there isnt any healight relays in the system, and that all voltage come directly from the multi switch on the coloum, so why does the pass side work? can there be seperate contacts in the switch for the different sides, brights and dims? that doesnt seem very logical? (however after seeing the wire color coding used i am not sure the electrical engineers here had logic in the forefront of their minds) and i did notice that the left and right headlight were fused seperate so ?? anyway, thanks in advance!