somethingcool
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Posts posted by somethingcool
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bingo 88 , simple but correct remember PSI (pounds per square inch.)
its surface area. if you have 8 square inches of rubber in contact with the ground, you will need less air pressure to properly suport the vehicle than you would with 4 square inches of rubber in contact. again this is a simple explanation but fairly accurate. your side walls do do alot of supporting of the vehicle but it doesn' t control how much surrface area is in contact with the road. I'm too hung over today to quote scripture or text. but.. you get the point
Totally wrong.
For any given load, 2 sets of tires with the same sidewall stiffness will have the same contact patch at the same psi regardless of tire size.
This is true because it is not the tire holding the truck off the ground, it is the air pressure.
Someone more knowlegable than me once said:
The force exerted by any fluid (air is a fluid in case you didn't know that already) under pressure is equal to the pressure times the area over which the pressure is applied. For the force exerted on the ground, it is equal to the tire pressure times the area of contact with the ground (aka the contact patch). Therefore, for a given weight and tire pressure, contact area MUST be the same.
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they only advantage is that on a 15x8 rim you are less likely to brake the 'bead' if you air down for some wheeln
i run 15x8 for my 31x10.5, i think there good
but the money you will spend on new rims probably really isnt worth it
Actually wider wheels make it easier to lose a bead when aired down.
Stock backspacing is right around 4 5/8".
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Yeah, try it with 87 octane I bet you pass...
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differnt tire sizes and different vehicle weights all contribute to different air pressure.
Nope, vehicle weight and sidewall stiffness are basically the only factors in determining air pressure settings.
But the chalk test is a very good way to go.
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thanks man
i think i will make one now, btw any one have pics of a pitman arm brace (the arm from the steering box)
Not needed, and I'm not sure it would work either.
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The auto also sucks some of the life out of the motor...stealing horsepower is another thing older auto trannies do. We had Pathfinder races at Sand Lake last time we went and I lost every time! I had the only auto-equipped Pathy there...
Uhh, doesn't Tiff have an auto and was the fastest?
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Why don't you grab the mpfi stuff off a 90+ pathy or hb and do that swap...
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Get some slotted rotors like these:
http://store.yahoo.com/streetbeatcustoms/r...01-rot168420290
You get the extra gas disipation without having to worry about cracking...
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Just make sure you get gl-4, don't believe the dealer that gl-4/gl-5 stuff works.
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I shoulda held onto my headers when I still had 'em.
Just keep repeating
looks like a child with a stick welder decided to make some use of electricity on arts 'n crafts day
looks like a child with a stick welder decided to make some use of electricity on arts 'n crafts day
looks like a child with a stick welder decided to make some use of electricity on arts 'n crafts day
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Transfer cases are fine with either gl-4 or atf fluid, use whatever you have in your tranny.
The best way to go for the tranny is some synthetic fluid, redline mt90 is the best imho. Regular gl-4 can be found though.
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The Nissan factory suggested psi is 26 as per the door jamb
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Hmm, I think 30 psi is probably more appropriate.
The E-AT switch is to control the auto transmissions shift points. I thought the 2 settings were Auto and Power though. In power mode it will shift at higher rpms and kickdown easier.
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Hmm, I think if you were to remove the ps belt then the pump would be fine, and the steering box should be able to make it to the parts store and back with the fluid trapped in it...
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Have you checked the blower to make sure it's not clogged with junk, that can make it vibrate.
As far as the ps line use anything that can take the pressure, just make sure you match the inside diameter of the line and not the outside, I think some lines are thicker so they may look the same size but flow less.
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5118: 14" compressed, 22.25" extended, travel: 8.25"
5116: 14.875" compressed, 24" extended, travel: 9.125"
Actually, the 5116's are slightly less than 1" longer than the 5118's. My bad.
Are you mathtarded?
They're 1.75" longer...
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Maybe the stock ones have sagged, so they are shorter...
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A little too much will probably cause extra foaming of the oil.
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Yup I go to PissU
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I have no experience with them but the concensus is that the rancho is the worst uca lift for our trucks. The best is probably calmini, followed by superlift, then ac, then rancho.
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darn pickles, return those plat plugs and buy some regular ngk's. They'll work better and cost around $10.
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Heh, I just got a free battery. I was walking home from class and in the middle of downtown portland is a burned out chevy nova, but only the interior was burned, the engine bay was all good. It sat there all day with the hood open so at that point I figured it was officially abandoned and so I scored a battery, and I needed one for my cruiser, what luck.
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Transfer case can use ATF or gear oil, and it's probably a good Idea to use the same fluid you put in your tranny.
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Make sure Schwab used the right specs:
Camber 0.563-2.063 Positive Prefered 1.313 Positive
Caster 0.0625 Negative to 1.4375 Positive Prefered 0.6875 Positive
Total Toe is for toe in at 0.08-0.24
They did mine and their computer had double the toe and caster/camber were off by a little bit. Made em do it again today...
I just can't believe the alignment computer has the wrong specs, it's probably so they can sell more tires in the long run.
replacing diffs
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Hmm, shipping would probably be too much but I'd trade you my 4.3's
sly