BIGFINDERMAN
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Posts posted by BIGFINDERMAN
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I thought about the timing belt, but if it broke, wouldnt you be able to tell by just turning the motor over? Also, he said it is getting sufficient gas up to the throttle body and has voltage from the coil. He tried pouring a little gas in the throttle body, but it still wouldnt try to start. Not really sure what is going on with it. I havnt been by to check it out personlly, but im going to go by there tomorrow and check a few things out. Thanks again for the replys guys
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Whats up guys. My buddy just bought a 88 pathy. Has 260k on it but is in awsome shape. Guy he bought it from said he was driving down the road and it just lost power and went dead. He had previously done a full tune up, installed a new clutch, fuel pump, and a few other things. My buddy got it for $800 bucks. My buddy said it is getting fuel up to the throttle body, but not through. He is getting 12 volts on one injector and 8 on the other. Not sure which injector is getting what. I didnt ask him. I lost my repair manual to my 88, but does this voltage sound correct? Thanks for any advice.
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88-98 Chevy 1/2-ton springs. these are pretty plentiful at junk yards. there are many places to order hangers from. check this site out. this is a pretty good price for what you need. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=279
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sup guys. i have yota 2wd rear springs on the front of my pathy. im thinking of getting a new set because im sure they are pretty wore out. i havnt wheeled the pathy yet, but im getting closer to finishing her. would it be a good idea to just get new factory yota springs or get a custom set from like alcan or another custom spring dealer? thanks
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Just to clarify, the autolocking hubs are on the WD21s and are generally not recommended for hard wheeling.
These are found on the R50's and yes, they seem fairly stout. I removed a set from my wife's 99.0 R50 to install Mile Marker manual hubs.
So the splines are the same size and count on your Dana 44??
B
Not sure i really understand you bud. Im not using the factory nissan auto hubs. I was asking how strong the factory jeep dana 44 front hubs were without converting to manual hubs.
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thanks for the info. im sorry i didnt use the search button guys. got stuck on stupid for a minute. i will probably go ahead and get the warn premium hubs. i just had some guys say the drive flanges were pretty stout. i plan on driving the pathy on the road quite a bit, so i sont want any added strain on the driveline. thanks again
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sup guys. whats the pros and cons using the auto hubs versus doing a manual locking hub conversion? im running dana 44's out of a 88 wagoneer. some people have said that the auto hubs are pretty stout? any info would be great. thanks
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This maybe a long shot, but have you checked cylinder compression. If you have bad piston rings you may be getting a fair amount of blow by on the compression stroke that could be contaminating your oil and also making it run rough due to low compression.
I havnt done a compression test yet, but i think i will just to be sure. Thanks
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Yea I will definately run some of that techron in it once in a while. I really just need to get it out and drive the crap out of it. But I still have to put shocks on it and finish up some welding before I can do that. I really appreciate all the help buddy! Thanks for ur time.
Well i have been cranking it everyday and letting it run for a while. It is running good besides idling a little rough. I have noticed that my front and rear main seals appear to be leaking a little. I know this has just recently started. Could the thinning of the oil due to all the gas that got in the bottom end be to blame for this? Thanks again
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It will run rough and probably crappy! Until the fuel in the tank has run through the system and cleans out all THE CARBON AND OTHER DEPOSITS. Then fill it up with a fresh tank from as close to empty as possible. Try running the Techron additive though once every 3 months just to keep it cleaned out. Worked for me and saved me a bunch of money on having unnecessary repair work done.
Yea I will definately run some of that techron in it once in a while. I really just need to get it out and drive the crap out of it. But I still have to put shocks on it and finish up some welding before I can do that. I really appreciate all the help buddy! Thanks for ur time.
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No, you can't manually clean the injectors. What your trying to check with the fuel pump is actually checking to see if the fuel pressure regulator is working properly. If the pump were to continue to run, then the pressure regulator would allow pressure to continue to push fuel into and past the injectors. (if one of the two injectors is dirty) This will flood the engine or cause it to run rich. If the pump runs for a few seconds and stops. Then theres adequate pressure, the regulator is regulating and hopefully the injectors are closing when the motor isn't running. If you don;t have one, I'd highly suggest buying a Clymer or Haynes manual for your truck! It'll help you diagnose most of the problems you could have, or at least point you in the right direction.
Changed the oil and put new plugs in her today. She started right up. It seemed to run pretty good. I kept it revd up a little till it got up to runnin temp. It idled a little rough, prolly due to all the fuel additives. I havnt checked the fuel pressure yet, but will as soon as I can get a gauge. Maybe everything will be straight with her now.
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A stuck/dirty injector and or a faulty fuel pressure regulator!If you have a fuel pressure gauge, hook it up. it should read approx 36 lbs. Also turn the key on (to accessory), and listen for the fuel pump, it should run (or hum) until it's up to pressure and then shut off.
I know the fuel pump is workn properly. I don't have a gauge. I will have to borrow one. Can u manually clean the injectors somehow? Thanks
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Drain the oil and refill. Put new plugs in it and try restarting the beast. Keep the idle up, until it gets up to temp and try driving it. If it wants to run, take it out on the freeway or an open road and run the snot out of it. Give the additives in the tank a chance to work. Then just see what happens. Once the fuel cleaner starts breaking down rhe carbon deposits it may run a little rough, but try burning as much of the fuel in the tank down until it's almost empty and refill it. It should run better on the second tank full.
Just drained my oil and it was full of gas. Poored out like water. What would cause that much gas to get in the oil?
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I did look in the radiator. Still full and green like it should be. I will check the dipstick and pull the plugs.
Pulled the dipstick and it smells like a mixture of oil and gas. Thoughts?
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Have you looked in the radiator! If the color of the coolant looks like chocolate milk, you've probably got a coolant leak. I'd also pull out the dip stick and take a look at the color of your oil as well.Smell it too. It is possible the crank case is full of either fuel,coolant..or both. Pull all the plugs out and crank over the engine to blow all of what might be in there, out. If it was dumping fuel down the intake from an injector being stuck open or coolant leaking in. You can Hydro lock the engine and bend rods, valves and blow out crank shaft seals in extreme circumstances. PULL THE PLUGS FIRST!
I did look in the radiator. Still full and green like it should be. I will check the dipstick and pull the plugs.
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I will definately try that. Thanks for all the help buddy!
Well it finally started. Smoked like hell probably due to all the fuel additives. Seemed to run good. Then it bogged down again and shut off. Tried to start it back up and it didn't even act like it wanted to. It looked like it had blown gas out of the exhaust on to the ground. Then I noticed a big spot of oil on the ground under the motor. Appeared to be very thin and kinda watery. I noticed it looked like it was leaking around the front side part of the oil pan. And from the front main seal a little. But the spot on the grond looked like it sprayed out from somewhere. Sounds and looks like bad news guys
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I would leave the fuel you have in it. I would add the Techron, which is made by Chevron. Its available a most of the larger auto supply stores. As for it running rich, thats exactly what mine did. It's caused by all the carbon build up on the valves. This stuff acts like a charcoal briquette and absorbs fuel like a sponge. it literally drips off of the deposits and into the combustion chamber in the form of raw fuel.
KM
I will definately try that. Thanks for all the help buddy!
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If you live in AL, chances are it hasn't gotten below freezing correct? That white smoke your describing. Does it hang in the air? Or is it just vapor coming out your exhaust pipe? If it's hanging in the air, more than likely, it's burning antifreeze. Which means you've got a coolant leak somewhere, either a head gasket or possibly a cracked block or cylinder head. If theres coolant leaking down into the combustion chamber or into your cylinder heads, it has probably fouled the spark plugs. Like I mentioned before, I'd pull the plugs and see what condition they're in? As far as the injectors. I would refer back to the fuel system cleaner, as it will also clean any injectors that are not closing all the way, and causing the truck to run rich. You can also test the fuel pressure regulator with a fuel pressure gauge. The factory setting should be 36.2 lbs psi.
Hope this helps.
Oh yea it has gotten below freezing. The time frame i was talking about, the temp was in the teens at night and 20's during the day. This was for about 3 days. We just had 5 inches of snow christmas morning. as for the smoke, i guess it kinda hangs in the air briefly. But i have been checking the coolant and it has not used any. i will definately pull the plugs and see what they look like. would it be a good idea to drain the tank now that i have over half a tank of 93 with seafoam and a bottle of heet? or will that not matter? now that i think about it, seems like for the past year roughly, when i start it up it seemed to be running a little rich. you can smell the hint of gas in the exhaust. dont know if this might just be from sitting for so long and just beeing started and not drivin for an extended period of time.
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Thanks for the info bud. I did pull the cap and there was no moisture. I havnt checked for spark. It is just weird how it happened. It ran fine one day. Then it got really cold for about 2 or 3 days. Then it started running bad. When i first fired it back up after the cold weather, it was smoking a little. It was a white smoke. Definately a gas smoke. I had guy from another nissan forum tell me to try a bottle of heet because at the time, it had less than a 1/8 tank. Could the fuel regulator or maybe the injectors be going bad? Thanks for any info
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Sup guys. Got a 88 pathy se. straight axled dana 44's. got 190,000 on the clock. It hasnt been drivin much in the past couple of years. finally got around to redoing my suspension. i would always start it up atleast once a week to the keep the fluids flowing. about 2 weeks ago it got very cold here for a few days. before it got cold, i started it up like usual ran fine. after the cold spell, i went to crank it again and it started, but ideled very rough. it was like it was overloading. it would clear out when you reved it up, but would cut out again and idle low and rough when dropped back to idle. the gas should have been pretty fresh. i put some sea foam in the tank with some 93 and made no difference. the next day i went to try it again and it would not start at all. it would try to hit about every 3 or 4 rotations. so i then put a bottle of heet in the tank in case there was any condensation in the system. also changed the fuel filter. while i had the filter off, i hit the ignition a few times to make sure the fuel pump was working like it should. and it was. still wont start. any ideas?? Thanks in advance.
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Sup guys. Gotta 88 pathy with waggy 44's front and rear. I pulled it in the shop about a month and a half ago to redo my suspension. went with chevy leafs out back and yota rears up front. it hasnt been drove much at all in the last couple of years. been an ongoing project. question is, it has always ran like a caddy, but i started it the other day to pull it out of the shop and do a little trial run on the new setup. it started smoking immediatley. it is a gas smoke not oil. i hopped out to check it out and noticed that it was smoking out of the driver side manifold to pipe collector. any ideas what would make it do this? only on the driver side?? thanks in advance for any advice.
CEL 21
in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders
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Sup guys. Anybody had the cel 21 code? If so what did you figure out? Thanks