disfordog

I'm not sure where my steering box is leaking from. The whole thing looks pretty wet, and I've never tried to clean it up. It's such a slow leak it barely needs topping up. I did take it for an alignment. That definitely fixed the bizarre steering action, and consequently it had never driven so straight and easily in it's life! Tonys Tyres on Aotea Quay, Wellington NZ did the job. Not sure of the chaps name, I'm sure it makes all the difference who does it though. I've had alignments before that drive just as crooked as when I took it in.

Hi! My truck is due for inspection shortly and I have a few things to fix up, but this one is a little concerning for obvious reasons... The power steering has become particularly hard, to the point where the mrs 'wont drive that dog of a truck'.. At stand-still, it virtually has no power steering. At slow to medium speeds the steering is lumpy/surging/pulsing when turning corners. Steering is fine at highway speeds. My steering box has always leaked for years but never been a problem. The pump has never appeared to leak, belt tension is good, and I topped up the fluid level a few days ago. Could it be an air bubble in the system? I only just noticed an odd hole on the top of the steering box and wondered if it is normal/nothing or if there is a bolt or breather missing? It is a Right Hand Drive truck, but I've flipped picture to make sense for those with the LHD setup... Picture was taken from inside the engine-bay looking down on top of the steering box.. Any suggestions y'all may have would be hugely appreciated!! If it's time to replace the steering box, I might see if I can gut this one and use it for an idler arm! I don't even know if it's possible, anyone tried it?

My mates tranny lost all the gears in one instantly fleeting moment as you describe... He just replaced the tourque converter and got all his gears back! I don't know if there was any liquid explosion involved though.... :oops:

I'll be in Chch on Saturday! I wont have my truck with me though... I'm a mainlander too, but been based in Welly a few years now... I still gotta get around to fitting my snorkel and maybe we could drive some rivers down there!

NZ! Wellyz/Poneke! Aotearoa - Land Of The Long White Cloud How 'bout you?

Another rust-free Terrano here! Anyone got any tips on keeping it that way? Fisholine? At least we don't get our roads salted down-under...

I've never had a prob with my hooks as they are, but i guess the over engineering in the above PDF's has got me a little nervious, esp since I used to run the 10,000 pounders on my 'yota... but the front Pathy hooks have shrugged off a good whiping extracting my old Toy'!!!

:idea: Maybe some L shaped 10mm steel so that the new rated hook would keep the same orientation as the factory hook. Drill one side of the L-plate to the chassis bolt pattern and the other side of the L-plate to the rated hook bolt pattern. I guess its possible to drill the chassis and weld another captive nut in there so that the L-plate will have 3 bolts to the chassis.... -study-

Hi, Although I'm relatively new here (never posted, but did all my mods with the help of you guys!), I thought I could throw in some info on recovery hooks and see what comes back... Introduction To Snatch Recoveries Minimum Standards For Tow Hook Mounting Specification For Recovery Hooks I am still running two factory hooks on the front, in the stock position, bolted into the stock captive nuts in the chassis. I'd like to fit two 10,000Lb rated hooks to my front end somewhere but it looks like I may have to get some steel welded on to be able to attach them properly. I assume any bar work will primarily use the same 4 captive nuts, and maybe include the flimsy bumper mounts... not withstanding any custom fab work obviously... I'd be keen to see pics of y'all bullet proof recovery points! Or if anyone knows where to get rated hooks with the Pathy bolt spacing? Has anyone bent or busted a factory hook? Stripped the bolts from the captive nuts? Anyone know where to find the load rating? If any? You guys rock!

Shot!

If you're on a budget and will settle for a lift of say 50mm (2") or less, you could go to an engineering workshop to cut and drill some polyproperline or uhmwpe blocks and just buy longer high-tensile bolts to match. You'll need 10 between the body and frame and 2 more for the center floor pan sopport. :secret: Tip- You will need to remove the front bumper for the lift. On each of the bumper brackets, I drilled a hole (equivilent to the lift) below the forwad most mounting hole, then drilled 2 steel strips (aprox 30mmx70mmx3mm) to connect the rear most bumper monting bolt-hole to the chassis. Alternatively, you could make notches in the body just below the front bumper mounts.This method will leave an od looking gap between the top of your bumper and headlights/grille. I also changed a small diff breather hose located in behind the starboad-bow (right front) wheel. I recommend replacing the power-steering hose that runs down from the filler reservoir too. My body lift is only 40mm and it looks a little stretched... I need to notch the floor pan so the trensfer lever will engage 4-Low comfortably, it's a bit of an effort at the moment but I can get it to engage... :secret: Tip - release the hand brake and chock the wheels or you'll risk stressing the cables... I loosened all the bolts first, then removed bolts from one side and proceeded to lift one side at a time from front to rear... After I did the lift, my mechanic said if I'd have spoken to him first, I could have had the body mounts from his wrecked Nissan Dbl-Cab Pickup for free, I'd just have to buy new bolts... Doh!... Trawl the net for as much info as you can get, and have a good look around you rig before jumping into the job. It will take you quite a few hours to do by yourself, but great once you're done!... I have 40mm BL and 35- 40mm SL and can run 32" MT's I hope this helps.... Good luck!!!