Wanderer

Where would one find these 30min t-stat change instructions? Is there a write up somewhere on the site? Cheers.

I already asked this in a thread I started in the 86.5 - 89 forum, but I figured I'd ask here too cause I need an answer ASAP. Will seafoam clean out the PCV valve and related components? I am having and idle issue and think the PCV valve might be the problem.

Thanks for the help guys, I think I'm gonna go with a stick on oil pan heater (or whatever I can get for the cheapest). Hopefully this is the last winter I have to spend up here in this $H!T.

So I checked it out quickly today, EGR valve is functioning properly as far as I can tell (I pushed up on the underside and it opened and closed freely, a little squaky maybe. With engine idling when I pushed up the idle slowed). Didn't find a vacuum leak either. However the rubber hose that goes to the air cleaner has very little suction (I believe that is an indication of a problem with the PCV system, not sure though because the damn haynes manual is so vague). To be honest I'm not even sure if I located the PCV valve (haynes manual once again not very helpful). Will seafoam clean the PCV valve and related components? The idle is steady for the first few minutes after start up but then all of a sudden starts "looping"? Also while I had the air cleaner off I turned the fast idle screw a few time and something is definitely stuck. The screw just gets really loose and the idle doesn't change.

I asked this same question a couple days ago in the 86.5 - 89 forum. Apparently they came as an option, look up my thread, there is a member that might still be able to get you one. I think I'm gonna go with a stick-on oil pan heater myself.

So it warmed up to a balmy -10 today so I went out to try and start my truck. I put a space heater underneath pointed at the oil pan, heat gunned various engine components, drained some of the thick oil out and topped it up with warm, thinner oil and put a battery charger on it. After all that she sputtered to life, success.... or not. As it started to warm up the idle started "looping" or "searching" between 1500rpm and 2000rpm. I hoped this would go away once the engine reached operating temp. but it continued to "loop" only faster. Tomorrow I will check the EGR and PCV systems and also look for vacuum leaks. Other than that what else could be the problem? What vacuum lines should I be checking?

So I've done a bit of searching and found quite a few different types of heaters (block heaters, oil pan heaters, coolant heaters, etc). I have 2 questions, my fist question is what would be the best option for my truck? I like the stick-on oil pan heaters but I'm a bit worried about how it will last being exposed to the elements (truck has no belly pan like most cars do). The coolant heater is also cool because you can heat up the interior and defrost the windshield right away. 2nd question, currently my truck won't start because its too cold (-20c at noon today), its supposed to stay this cold all week too! Could I use a heat gun to warm up my oil just so I can get it started? Pretty ghetto I know but its all I could think to do LOL

I have heard mixed reviews on other car forums about this stuff. Some people have experienced oil leaks (some major, some minor) after using it. The theory being the seafoam cleaned away the engine gunk along with part (or all) of an old, warn gasket(s). I actaully have a can in my garage but I'm hesitant to use it cause I can't deal with an oil leak at the moment.

Thanks for the quick responses, I didn't think this forum was that active. Anyways, I have another question, did our trucks come with block heaters? Being -20c outside (mid day) my truck won't start. Man will I be glad when I'm back on a southern gulf island!

I'm also in the same boat as Greg, why would I spend 1/3 of what I payed for my truck just for exhaust headers, especially when all I'm tryin to do is stop an exhaust leak. Even if I have to buy 2 sets of pacesetters (which I likely won't), I still won't have spent what I would have on the thorleys. That's just my opinion though, I prefer to spend my money on other things like sports cars, drugs, alcohol, and women... Oh and gas of course. Again just my opinion P.S. At one point my insurance went up to $600/month on my '93 RX-7 twin turbo, no accidents just speeding tickets. Needless to say I had to sell that car before bankruptcy LOL

So I backed the fast idle screw out half a turn and it seamed to drop the idle down about 200rpm. So I backed the screw out a full 3 turns and my cold idle is still over 3000rpm. Is it possible the fast idle cam is stuck (or gummed up) and needs to be freed up? Its currently -18C at noon and supposed to stay this cold all week (insert swear words here) so I guess my hands are gonna get cold.

Thanks mate, that's exactly what I needed!

I recently moved to northern bc (brrrrrr) AFAIK the truck spent most of it 315,000km in southern BC. During cold starts the idle steadily climbs to 3000rpm until warm then drops to normal. I know the idle should increase until warm but I thought 2000-2500rpm was normal. Would thinner oil solve this, currently using 10w30 with lucas oil addative, or is this normal? Cheers, Paul

I did do a quick search on this site before I posted but didnt find much info (maybe I'm not using the search properly ???), also did a quick google search and only got a few good links from a 'yota site and a jeep site. The 2 reviews I found pretty much said you get what you pay for........... which I already knew......... I just want more light lol

Salt Spring is probably wicked if you dont live here, the ferries cost WAY too much money, I've probably dropped close to a grand in the year I have lived here. That being said, it is a much nicer place to live than southern Onterrible. Question for you guys (might not be the best place to ask this but whatever), is the 2 door body shorter than the 4 door?

Thanks for the input fellas, I was planing on using an air compressor and spray gun. I dont expect it to turn out like a mint custom paint job, I have realistic expectations with my limited ability LOL After this winter the truck is most likely gonna end up as a trail truck anyways (hopefully this winter works out as planned and I can get a nice Xterra for the road) so its not really a big loss if it looks like trash. I just hope I dont look like a redneck with a terrible paint job LOL. As far as steering clear of painting my truck that I got for less than a grand....... this is the cheapest vehicle I have ever, and probably will ever, have, so I think this is a perfect practice canvas (so to speek) to learn a new skill. @ KovemaN, what techinque did you use to do yours (stencil, free hand)? Do you have any better pics?

What do you guys think of these lights? There pretty cheap and come with extra relays, switch, a wiring kit, 2 extra bulbs and covers. Seams like a pretty good deal anyways. Flea bay lights

Just wondering if anyone has done it or has any pics? I am considering doin it this winter to my 2 door, I want to do it 'urban' camo in the winter colours (white, grey, dark grey and black). I will have lots of extra time on my hands this winter and the white paint on my truck has seen better days. This is just one of my many strange ideas I come up with to kill time and it wont really cost much at all, just time. I have no experience painting so it should be interesting if I actually do it, if it looks terrible I'll just get my buddy to spray it again. This is my informal training I dont want it exacly like that, but its a good general idea of what im after Let me know what you guys think....... Good idea....... Bad idea......

When I said finished I didnt mean FINISHED LOL I have had many project vehicles over the years ranging from a 350 whp '93 Mazda RX-7 TT to a '90 VW GTI, not sure if I have ever truly finished a project before sellin it I will post pics as soon as I take some, the truck is over at my buddies which is on a different island. @ Creekkid I am currently living on Salt Spring Island but movin up north for the winter to west of Prince George. Thanks for the warm welcome everyone

I came across this site a few days ago and already it has been very usefull, there is so much good info on here. So I figured I would intoduce myself. I just traded my '87 hardbody pickup (with the lack luster Z24i engine) for my buddies '88 2door Pathfinder because my truck blew the rear main seal and I didnt feel like fixin it . The last few days we have been pulling the welded rear diff out of the Pathy and putting an LSD in it. The welded diff worked amazing off road but I wasnt comfortable highway driving with it in the snow up north this winter (someting about sliding sideways into an oncoming transport truck put me off lol). It has a 3" body lift and I am putting the 31"s off of my truck on. The only other Pathfinder I have owned was a '97 Klondike edition (not sure if that was only a Canadian model, nothin special though). Anyways I'll post some pics when I get it all finished and on the road. Oh yea, while we were putting the LSD in we noticed that my buddies old parts truck had cast trailing arms (I believe thats what they're called, but forgive me if I'm wrong, I'm new here lol) instead of the regular ones. I grabbed the cast ones because the bushings were much tighter and the arm itself looked much more robust. Just wonder why only some came with the cast ones, while most came with the other type? Cheers, Paul