CaughtLikeFire
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Posts posted by CaughtLikeFire
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Good stuff. Poly bushings are always a good choice. I make sure to lube mine with silcone spray before install.
Also, replacement links are a good idea. I installed greaseable Moog links and they rock!
The ES bushings have zerk fittings so I'm OK there. I ordered a set of Moog joints last week but I'm actually going to be returning them. the welds look sloppy and the boots don't seal as well as the factory units. how long have you had yours? maybe they're more durable than they look. The grease fitting is a cool feature at the least.
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update - for future reference, the front sway bar is 27mm. The Pathfinder uses the same bushings as a 1995-1998 240SX. I looked up replacement bushings for the 240SX and the factory diameter is 27mm. I also found a post by MicheganAve on 4x4parts.com that suggested the front sway is 27mm.
I'll update when I check fitment of the Energy Suspension universal 27mm sway bar bushings (hopefully a few weeks)
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Great, so now at least I know I have the right plugs!
autozone will scan for free hey.....at least if one of the boots have not made contact properly I could see which cylender is misfiring.
This has just got to be the problem
Thanks for your help
no problem. let us know how it turns out
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You're referring to the front sway bar, right?
yep. factory front on my 2001 SE. I'll ask around - one of the neighbors might have a decent set of calipers so I can get an accurate measurement. I don't trust measuring tape to be accurate down to ~0.5mm and I'm not sure how I feel about the wrench method although I could give it a shot.
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those plugs are the correct model - iridium vs. platinum will not result in an engine code. check the plug gap (although even that's a stretch for causing an SEL unless it's way out of wack) and try some dielectric grease on the plug boot metal insert and spark plug tip to ensure a good connection. stores like Autozone will do an OBD II scan for free and you can pick up a plug gap tool and dielectric grease for a few bucks while you're there
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Umm...why do you want poly bushings for your sway bar? Are you going racing? I hear of people wanting to get rid of their sway bar, get quick disconnect end links, but never about tightening up their sway bar!
on-road handling is more important to me than axle articulation. I'm setting my Pathfinder up more like a work truck than a Jeep (probably the opposite of what most members here want to do). Stiff suspension with stock axle articulation is great for a vehicle that goes from dirt roads/hunting + gameland trails to carrying hundreds of pounds of gear down the highway @ 75 mph. If I was going to be crawling over rocks and plowing through mud pits I'd take a different approach.
as far as measurements go, I don't have easy access to digital calipers. I'm sure someone has a Nissan service manual with the sway bar specs.
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The problem fleurys is talking about only applies to automatic transmission 2nd gen R50's, if you have a manual like me you are golden!
you mean manual transfer case, not transmission right (pretty sure that's what you meant)?
Models with the All-Mode 4WD have the atx14x that doesn't play well with manual locking hubs. LE models and QX4s have the All-Mode standard and I think it was an option on 2003-2004 SE models.
Junx, if you have a manual-shifting transfer case (not a push-button 4WD), you're fine with manual hubs. Although they're not as popular, I'd recommend purchasing manual hubs from a late 1990s Nissan pickup. They run $200 a pair brand new from online Nissan parts dealers (check here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18653). I know that Warn hubs are a proven design, but I can't bring myself to pay $170+ for aluminum and pot metal construction.
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anybody know the diameter of the factory front sway bar? I have a 2001 SE but I think that all of the 2001-2004 Pathfinders use the same bar. I'm looking into ES poly bushings and want to get the correct size.
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update - replaced the clutch and had the flywheel resurfaced. I also replaced all of the driveline fluids with Amsoil synthetic. Shifts are smooth, no noise, no grinding
Now it's time for some mods. I recently added Nissan manual locking hubs, Goodridge SS brake lines, and Hawk LTS pads and suspension is up next - OME springs/shocks and KYB struts are on order from 4x4parts. I'll also be knocking out some other maintenance items in the next month: plugs, fuel filter, air filter, cabin filter, and TB + MAF cleaning.
My checkbook hates me right now . . .
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also check your air filter. if it's not brand new, might as well change it. Wix and Amsoil are the way to go (pretty sure the Wix # is 46116 and Amsoil is EAA74). don't bother with oiled gauze filters like K&N.
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hey guys and gals...
im new to the nissan/pathfinder world. i bought a 97 SE in good shape. Did a tune up and replaced ALL rear and front suspension bushings. the truck is getting like 14 mpg?? im trying to figure out if the truck is "stuck" in 4x4. i shift into 4x4 on dry roads and it doesnt act any different than in 2wd mode. again im not familiar with the 4x4 system on these trucks. i have mostly owned solid axle ford trucks. i did check the front drive shaft last night and it is not unlocked...i cannot spin it freely with my hand. any help or assistance would be appreciated.
thanks alot
chris
1996-2004 Pathfinders have drive flanges instead of auto-locking hubs like the 1990-1995 models. the front driveshafts are always spinning (even in 2WD) so that you have shift-on-the-fly capability. the good news is that, unlike 4Runners, you can get rid of the drive flanges on a Pathfinder without swapping axles and steering knuckles.
you can swap the drive flanges directly with manual locking hubs from Mile Marker, Warn, or Nissan (pickup/Frontier). not all of the online fitment guides are correct - any hub for a 1990+ V6 Nissan truck will fit. just look for a 28 count spline. you should see a slight increase in highway mileage with manual hubs.
driving style and tires play a bigger role though. don't drive at 80 mph and use a good highway tire (not All Terrain or Mud Terrain) that is properly inflated - you might be able to get 20 mpg. for mixed/around town driving, don't expect more than 15 mpg
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Every time I see a thread about bilsteins I have to post this photo. all though yours my be a more durable line.
I replaced them with ranchos and have not had a problem yet.
I think my next ones may be old man emu's
Bilstein HD shocks are pretty durable, but even the good stuff can break.
some of the OME shocks use an 18mm shaft vs. the Bilstein HD 14mm. I haven't ordered my OME shocks yet so I can't verify if the model for the R50s uses the heavier 18mm rod.
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Whatever it is, I hope its not gonna be an expensive repair like mine.
yeah, me too
but a clutch is never cheap. I can get the OEM clutch disc, pressure plate, bearing, and bushing for $300 + shipping but the labor is what kills.
my transmission isn't as bad as yours . . . I can feel the shifter jerk around sometimes but it stays in gear. The bearing is definitely on its way out but it's not loud - I can hear it with the windows up and blower off. the grind is just a quiet crunch, nothing like my uncle's pathy with bad synchros. kinda like if you let out the clutch a little too early on a fast shift. I'm actually starting to feel better about this - might just be the clutch not fully engaging/disengaging. if the 2nd gear synchro is just a little worn, Amsoil synthetic might even "fix" it.
I'm taking the car to a reliable local mechanic to get the MD state inspection done tomorrow. I'll talk with them about the trans issues and see what they have to say. It's a really clean, really nice pathy but I'm kicking myself for not diagnosing this problem before I purchased it "as is, no warranty dealer special."
sounds like a syncro starting to go...change your driving style a little bit..for mine I used to have it out of 3rd and on my way to 4th as the clutch was in...I found out that if i gave the clutch more time to engage and not rely on my syncro's it didnt grind but if I drag race off the line i'm going to grind what i started doing is clutch to the floor before grabbing out of 3rd to go to 4th and make sure its in 4th before releasing the clutch
/quote]
I actually drive/shift pretty conservatively. But I do need to utilize the power I have on tap sometimes, like when merging onto a major highway. I can't shift at 2k RPMs all the time - if it's really that bad I'm getting the trans rebuilt.
thanks to everyone for their input so far. If I need to replace the throwout bearing, I'm getting it down now along with the clutch/plate. hopefully that will resolve the issue - I'll report back.
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Whatever it is, I hope its not gonna be an expensive repair like mine.
yeah, me too
but a clutch is never cheap. I can get the OEM clutch disc, pressure plate, bearing, and bushing for $300 + shipping but the labor is what kills.
my transmission isn't as bad as yours . . . I can feel the shifter jerk around sometimes but it stays in gear. The bearing is definitely on its way out but it's not loud - I can hear it with the windows up and blower off. the grind is just a quiet crunch, nothing like my uncle's pathy with bad synchros. kinda like if you let out the clutch a little too early on a fast shift. I'm actually starting to feel better about this - might just be the clutch not fully engaging/disengaging. if the 2nd gear synchro is just a little worn, Amsoil synthetic might even "fix" it.
I'm taking the car to a reliable local mechanic to get the MD state inspection done tomorrow. I'll talk with them about the trans issues and see what they have to say. It's a really clean, really nice pathy but I'm kicking myself for not diagnosing this problem before I purchased it as an "as is, no warranty, dealer special."
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This sounds exactly like the symptoms a member here had recently. His fix was a new transmission, as his syncros were shot. He was popping out of gear, and had issues with bearing noise as well.
we'll see what some new Amsoil synthetic trans fluid does (might get the fluid changed this weekend). I'm really hoping that the transmission itself is ok.
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hey fellas -
hate to make my first post on troubleshooting my Pathfinder, but I want to take care of this problem before it gets worse.
I just purchased an '01 SE manual with 114k miles and apparently I didn't figure out all the problems during the test drive. Here's the deal:
1) the clutch does not slip under power and I don't have excessive resistance when shifting. seems fine during a short drive at low speeds.
2) there is a whirring noise when I depress the clutch at idle. It goes away when I release the clutch. the noise happens most of the time but not always. I thought it was generic engine noise when I first drove the vehicle (my daily driver is a 2008 VW GTi so I expected a lot more noise with the Pathfinder).
3) when driving in 3rd gear, the shift lever want to pop into neutral. it hasn't actually come out of gear yet, but the shift lever rocks back and forth. I've tried to hold the lever up against the front of the shift gate (i.e., immobilize the lever in 3rd gear) and I can feel it fight back pretty violently.
4) when shifting from 2nd to 3rd at higher RPM (above 3k), I get a slight crunch. Not a loud grind but it's definitely gears that are not meshing.
I'm not sure if all of these symptoms can be explained by one component going bad . . . I guess it could be a bearing issue combined with one synchro going bad, but given the mileage and excellent condition of the vehicle, I'm hoping it's all related to the clutch and/or associated bearings and it's not a bent shift fork or bad synchros.
This could delay my OME suspension purchase . . . and it definitely means no new rims
Rear Glass Spoiler?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
1) open the tailgate
2) pop off the plastic trim at the top of the gate (top of the glass)
3) remove the screws/bolts that anchor the spolier. I can't remember what type of socket or bit you'll need though (e.g., 12mm socket, Torx T20 bit).
it's pretty simple
as a side note, the spoiler is (semi-gloss black) painted metal. I had success using Astro Shield to remove oxidation and restore the original black finish. don't pass up a spoiler if it has light oxidation - I'd be concerned mostly with chips/rust.