CaughtLikeFire
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Posts posted by CaughtLikeFire
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I know that the drivetrain is a little different on the WD Pathfinders, but my '93 SE would not go into 4 Lo - I physically could not get the lever to go all the way back. I'd get a little grind usually too. Turned out the problem was just some rusty shift lever linkage from all the salt on Pennsylvania roads. Cleaned and lubed it and it shifted perfectly. It just might be that simple. I think a damaged transfer case is unlikely on a 2001, given #1 the build quality and #2 the fact that so many R50s were used as grocery getters and were almost never run in 4WD.
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4. I'm not certain about this, but there are plenty of members who have OME & spacers... personally I don't understand the need to have a perfectly level stance.
I have OME HD front and Medium rear on my 2001 SE manual. It sits level (see this thread for OME pics: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24630&st=20). over time, the front end will sag just a little, but you should not get an extreme rake with the tail in the air.
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Looks great!
I've also got the OME HD coils installed all-around and the total lift is definitely more than .5" (then again I'm also running 265/75R16 A/Ts)...
I'm also installing 1" leveling spacers next week (rather, when they arrive) so that should mild up the rake pretty well.
do you really have that much rake? did your front end settle significantly or did the steel bumper bring the front end down some? I'm pretty much dead even front and rear lift but I have less than 1k miles on my suspension.
from that angle it looks pretty darn good - they wouldn't work well for me but I like the look of 265/75 on an R50.
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I don't think any R50 Pathfinders have that set-up; it's attached to the overhead console.
I replaced the factory mirror on my 2001 and it was the same part number as a '97 mirror I found at a parts yard. even though Nissan changed the center console trim in 2001 (black plastic instead of dark gray) the overhead console did not change - it's still gray for 2001.
98ChilkootTrail, sounds like you have the optional auto-dim mirror with compass and/or temp that mounts to the glass. In the US I think it was a dealer-installed option only but maybe some of the Canadian vehicles had it from the factory. post a picture of your overhead console and I should be able to tell you if it will fit - I'm thinking you might just have a plastic trim piece that pops in to cover the hole for the mirror mounting bracket.
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I've looked at the manuals and I have only one nipple to grease and it's on the front drive shaft.
Amsoil and Mobil 1 both have synthetic greases. Is it safe to use? I mean is this the same case as with engine oils where you can safely buy synthetic because it's better than conventional?
Mobil 1 is a great all-purpose grease - it would be just fine for a drive shaft. I use either Amsoil Multi-purpose NLGI 2 or Mobil 1.
the difference in synthetic vs. standard grease is pretty much the same as syn vs. regular motor oil . the syn grease should provide a little more protection from wear (reduced friction) and more resistance to heat but I wouldn't say that it's as crucial on a driveshaft, hub, or wheel bearing as it is inside a modern gas engine.
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Now I understand.
So it's not the case with VQ35DE I guess.
I bought the car a year ago and imported to my country.
It had 44k miles on it.
I've immediately changed the oil and poured 5w-30 long-life fully synthetic oil. That was on 2009-Oct-10.
When I checked the oil level later after several months (I know I should not and will not do that again) it was on L mark.
I calculated and I drove 4000 miles in about 6 month or so.
Later I called some dealer in US and the guy told me that excessive oil burn is more than one quart per 1500 miles. So I guess my engine does not burn oil, because my daily trip is 5 miles at the morning and 5 miles at the evening home-work-home.
In another thread I've written that on highway the car does not burn oil, at least I could not notice it after 300 miles trip.
So I bought 1 quart of the same oil and was adding till I reached 6000 miles and I changed the oil after 10 months from the last change.
I don't know what oil the previous owner was using but I plan to use fully synthetic till my income allows me to do so.
The only thing that frustrates me is that nissan's premium schedule requires you to change oil and filter every 3 months or 3750 miles, whichever comes first.
In my case it means that I should change oil every 3 months and it's kinda expensive for me because fully synthetic in here is expensive. The change costs me about 100 USD.
Lately I've found a shop that's importing "genuine" oils from Japan.
http://jaytec-lubricants.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_7_15
They have conventional 5w-30. It's cheaper than fully synthetic and it will cost me about 70 USD to change the oil.
But as you guys suggest and I believe you I should not downgrade and use fully synthetic forever because my engine is not burning oil yet and because I use fully synthetic it should not in the foreseeable future.
I'm not surprised that your engine was fine with a change to synthetic at 44k - I've changed to synthetic in some vehicles at 120k (miles) and they've been just fine.
with a good synthetic oil, you should change the oil and filter at 5-7k (miles). If you're only driving 10 miles per day, you won't have to change your oil often at all. there's no way you need to spend $100 every 3 months.
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nice lookin' Chevy
I forgot that I did take one pic of my '01 right after the tire install. OME HD front, Medium rear, 245/75/16 Hankook Dynapro RF10s. ignore the mismatched paint . . .
the Pathy doesn't look lifted, but it looks "right" to me. I want my SUV to be an actual "utility" vehicle, not a station wagon. the 75 profile fills out the wheel wells a little more and gives the wheel the right proportions to match the body of the vehicle.
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The parking brake warning light on my 2003 SE 4x4 with 93,000 miles suddenly started turning on about a week ago. It happens on the first drive of the day when the car is started cold, stays on for 5-10 minutes, goes off, comes back on again a few times, then goes off completely for the rest of the day. It also went on for a brief second today during a moderate panic stop from about 30 mph. The parking brake appears to be working as normal, although when I pull it up while driving, it seems to have very little effect at slowing the vehicle. Braking action is the same, distances are not longer and the pedal does not go to the floor. My front pads (Nissan Brand) have about 20% left, or 43K on them. The rears have not been serviced yet. I set the parking brake 99% of the time while parked. Weather is moderate here in Phoenix, about 35-65 degrees.
Any ideas on what this could be? Should I get the codes read?
Thanks.
it hasn't happened with my Pathfinder but with other vehicles - if the brake fluid is a touch low, the brake light comes on when the car is cold (1st thing in the morning). brake performance is not affected. if you're concerned about your parking brake being too loose, follow the procedure here: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=460197&postid=5191362
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http://www.jegs.com/i/Cragar/260/3975864PK/10002/-1
I wonder if these would work? Seems like a pretty good deal , but the back spacing is 4 1/4. Does anyone know the stock back spacing? I wonder if this is close enough to 4" Is this our bolt pattern?
Chevy wheels are usually hub centric instead of lug centric like the Pathfinder. For any wheel, make sure that the specs don't say "hub centric." pathfinder bolt pattern is 6x5.5 (139.7mm) . . . I was pretty sure that the 1/4 ton Chevy pickups still use that pattern but I could be wrong . . . .
The Cragar Soft 8 you linked to is available in 15x8 and 6x5.5 bolt pattern to fit Nissans. I don't know if they clear the calipers on the 2000-2004 R50s though. 16x8 would for sure. Those wheels look good but are really heavy (mostly b/c of steel construction vs aluminum).
IIRC, factory backspacing is ~5" on the 16x7 R50 wheels (not 100% sure).
by the way, my buddy has a 2500HD Dmax, standard cab (mild mods - Banks tuner + full exhaust) and it's one of the fastest trucks I've ever driven - torque is just insane. love the Duramax
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speaking of test fitting . . . Chevy trucks use the same bolt pattern as Nissan and I know that the 3/4 ton pickups have a pretty large hub bore . . .
it wouldn't be safe to drive, but you could take a wheel off the Silverado (even the fullsize spare) and mount it on the Pathfinder just to see how it looks with 245/75/16.
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I only have pics with 245/70s - not the 75s. guess I need to take some new pics once I get the bumper repainted
Daddy Rim brought up a good point that I forgot - a lot of 245/75/16 tires are E load rated (10-ply equivalent). those are too heavy for the Pathfinder and when you combine the stiffer, heavier tire with the higher required pressures to get the optimum contact patch (probably 40-45 psi given the 80 psi max), you're in for one harsh ride.
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Did you have to space you wheels with this set up. From the online calculator it looks like that is just below a 31 or so. I think from what I have been reading that seems like it is about the limit without different wheels.
no spacers required - I went with this size because I wanted to keep the stock wheels. The wide vs. narrow tire debate is as bad as Ford vs. Chevy so I won't get into it. I personally don't buy into the "get the widest tire that fits" mentality so that's why I stuck with 245. The 30.5" overall diameter actually made my speedometer more accurate too.
as far as turning radius goes, I assumed most guys running 265/75 are using an 8" wide aftermarket rim.
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you could also just go with a taller tire instead of going wider. I have a 2001 with OME springs and run 245/75/16 Hankook Dynapro RF10s. Great fit on the 7" wide factory rim and adds ground clearance over stock. My turning radius is great (by Nissan standards) and grip is never a problem - I'll never go to 265s on this vehicle.
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If in doubt, and the fluid looks dark/dirty, then it's cheap insurance to change it. $10 buck or so worth of fluid.
agreed. there are a lot of 100k+ Pathfinders out there with original fluid that still have an ok functioning brake system (maybe not optimal) so it's not crucial to do it every 3 yrs/30k or whatever the Nissan recommendation is. given the low cost though, it's worth doing if the fluid isn't a nice clean amber anymore.
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Do you add oil between changes and if yes what amount?
Also what are your driving conditions? (Mostly on highway, Mostly in city, mixed mode)
I burn almost zero oil @114k miles. Driving is mixed city/highway. The Amsoil helps with oil consumption (less likely to vaporize than just about any oil available here in the US) but my consumption was only a fraction of a quart every 7-8k to start with.
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I use Amsoil synthetic with an Amsoil EA oil filter designed for extended drain intervals. I change my oil once per year or after 15,000 miles.
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Hey thanks, for the help, where did you get your OME stuff from?
I bought the OME parts from 4x4parts.com. it'll take a few weeks since they place an order with ARB USA (the OME distributor) and have the parts drop shipped. you can order the KYB struts from 4x4parts too, but you can find them a little bit cheaper at other online stores or on Ebay.
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I am new here and have read a ton on lifting my 01 pathfinder and have decided against it. I don't want to mess with the increased CV wear or topping out issues. The problem is I have a cracked front spring and I cannot find stock replacement springs anywhere but Nissan. Do you guys have any ideas? Nissan wants 200 per spring, I think that is a bit steep for a pair of stock springs. Thanks for the help, and if there is a thread that talks about this I must have missed it.
Thanks for the help and advice and the great website
there's an NPORA member that works at a Nissan parts dept in TX. He'll beat your dealer's price no question. check this thread for phone contact info: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18653
alternately, the OME springs do not provide a huge lift, do not put your CVs at really steep angles, and are not expensive. a complete set of OME springs, OME shocks, and KYB struts set me back less than $700 including shipping.
if you're replacing the front springs, make sure you also replace the strut bearings and mounts (anything rubber or metal with rubber vulcanized to it). No point going through all the work to take the strut apart only to have it break down. If your struts have a lot of miles on them, replace them with KYB GR2 struts - you can get them for ~$150 per pair.
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wow, I just assumed that the dealership would want a ridiculous amount of money for that part - I'm going to try to rig up a stainless steel hose band clamp that I found from my turbo Volvo parts box but if that doesn't work, I won't be out too much $$.
dealer wanted $31 for the bracket and it had to be ordered. Called up Rob (Alkorahil) and got it for $13 plus a few new screws for $1.50. Decided not to mess with the band clamp (not that it would be that difficult, but it would be more than $13 of my time/labor by the time I got out the angle grinder and cut part of the bracket).
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I had to replace my fuel filter bracket about five months ago because I had the same exact problem. I just bought a new bracket from the dealer for $20. I figure this is probably a part I'll have to replace every several years.
wow, I just assumed that the dealership would want a ridiculous amount of money for that part - I'm going to try to rig up a stainless steel hose band clamp that I found from my turbo Volvo parts box but if that doesn't work, I won't be out too much $$.
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looking for some suggestions on how to take care of my fuel filter problem. here's the deal: went to change my fuel filter yesterday (previous owner never changed it) and turns out the filter bracket is rusty mess. kinda surprising since the underside of the Pathfinder is virtually rust free otherwise. When I tried to remove the screw/bolt to undo the bracket, the bracket twisted under the torque of my baby 1/4" driver and started to crush the fuel filter. I'll need to cut off the bracket for sure.
any suggestions on what to use as a new bracket? I'm thinking that I could use some type of hose clamp bolted down with a sheetmetal screw. The filter is light enough that I could probably even use a screw-down wire tie but I'd prefer something reusable.
I did look for universal brackets online but almost all of them are show pieces - huge billet aluminum and chromed steel brackets for $40+
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I also agree that those wheels are the best looking wheel for the R50, I wanted a set of those, but they are crazy expensive around my area and not very available.
MD parts yards are ripoffs. Brandywine wants over $200 each for those wheels. Two of my wheels were curbed when I bought my 2001 so I bought replacements on Ebay for $50-$75 each on Ebay. Autogator.com (in Cali) should still have some in stock A or A- grade condition for just under $100 shipped (each).
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I was also wondering if someone could confirm that these rims off a slightly newer R50 will bolt up without issues to my 99. I like the style much better for stock than the plain steelies on mine, going to try and pull some at the wreckers this weekend if I can find some.
those will bolt right up. Just make sure you use a tire calculator to determine the correct tire size since you're moving up to a 16" rim. Those are the best looking wheel for the R50 in my opinion. for whatever reason, I don't even notice the 6 bolt on 5 spoke thing.
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Hey all, I just need to verify some drive train info before I get to changing fluids.
for my 99 SE 4x4 it should be:
Front diff is open, gets API GL-5 80W-90
Trans is automatic, Nissan Matic "D" or Dextron III
Transfer gets Nissan Matic "D"? (or does it get 75W-90 API GL-4)
Rear diff is LSD, get LSD GL-5 80W-90 Oil? (on other LSD equipped cars I've had this means it has friction modifiers in the oil, which can also be added separately)
I've looked at the service manuals I have and it's not really clear to me so, I'm asking for a little help.
80W90 GL5 in both differentials. I use Amsoil 75W90 Severe Gear synthetic and it's great. I did not need friction modifiers for the LSD if you decide to go that route.
Transmission and transfer case get the same Nissan auto trans fluid. I use Amsoil synthetic in my transfer case but I have a manual trans so I can't comment personally on the shift quality. Friends with higher torque, larger trucks swear by the Amsoil though for auto transmissions. I'm not sure how much the Nissan fluid goes for these days but the Amsoil is very reasonable given it's 100k mile service life.
This might help you out too:
CAPACITIES:
Engine, with filter..........4 quarts [1]
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........11.1 quarts
AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant
Automatic Transmission, RE4R01A Initial Fill..........Not Specified
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
4 speed RE4R01A..........9 quarts
Manual Transmission, 2WD..........5.1 pints
Manual Transmission, 4WD..........10.6 pints
Differential, Front..........3.9 pints
Differential, Rear..........5.8 pints
Transfer Case, Part-Time..........4.7 pints
Transfer Case, All-Mode..........6.4 pints
[1] After refill check oil level.
TORQUES:
Oil Drain Plug.....22-29 ft/lbs
Manual Transmission
Fill Plug 18-25 ft/lbs
Drain Plug 18-25 ft/lbs
Transfer Case
Fill Plug 18-25 ft/lbs
Drain Plug 18-25 ft/lbs
Aftermarket Spring Replacement Question
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by CaughtLikeFire
I can say from experience that the OME coils do not have the rubber/plastic isolator on the coils. I'm 99% sure that the AC coils don't either. With the OME coils, the Nissan isolators will fit. I purchased new ones for the front coils since I wanted to assemble a 100% brand new unit off the truck and just swap strut assemblies. I probably could have purchased new ones for the rear coils since they're cheap too, but I just reused them.
if you don't use an isolator/sleeve on the bottom coil, you might get some additional noise but it's not a crucial part. Given the cheap price of the isolators if you order online, I'd just get 4 new ones. if you're on a really tight budget, reuse the old ones. mine had 114k on them and were in great condition - they don't really wear out and mine stayed very pliable (no dry rot).