fishead

I'm thinking about fabbing up a tray to go under mine. Maybe put a hole in one corner so the oil can drip into an old yogurt container or something. RedPath88, and others with similar setups, do you have to worry about twisting your mounting bracket when reefing on the filters? Or is it skookum enough to handle the torque?

Dude, that sucks. Was it 100% his fault? It sucks to be at fault for something like that. If you are in my neighborhood, I got some beer we can drink while we pull parts off!

Sweeeeet, finally got that sensor only 16 days after I got it. I am a cheap bass-turd, so it was worth the wait. I just hope I can get a normal mileage now. This morning I put in about 48 liters with about 260km on the odometer. I hope to have it in tonight, then post back in a few weeks with an update.

I clicked a few links from your link 88, and found this dual filter kit: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...r=1#Application Will it fit on my '90 SE-V6? Did you hear about the guy that thought he was buying a PS3, but in reality he bought the email address "hotps3s@hotmail.com" or something like that, for $890.

Hmm... I will have to look into it. I unplugged the sensor (in the engine compartment) and it has way more power. I wonder if maybe no signal is better then a wrong sensor? Thanks.

Terrano's are pretty sweet, but are you sure you don't wanna keep saving and buy a Pinzgauer? I should quit my job, get out of Vancouver, move to Edmonton, and join you guys for beer. I make $50K, but can't afford a 3 bedroom townhouse Know anyone in Alberta looking for an electronics geek?

Update: Last night I went on Ebay and bought one from http://stores.ebay.com/GLOBAL-AUTOMOTIVE This guy's got over 10,000 feedback, 99.4% positive. Been a long time since I hung out on Ebay, but MAN that's a lot of happy customers. Anyhow, I ordered myself a sensor for $28 US. After confirming that he does not use UPS (OOoooooh I hate UPS) I ordered one. Shipping works out to $7 USD. After all is said and done, it worked out to $40 something. Seeing as how the cheapest local price I got was $99 CDN, I will wait the week or so that it takes to get here from Florida. I will post an update on my success.

If I ever give into the fact that my Pathgrinder makes a lousey commuter car, my plan is to get a cheap Subaru (mid-late '80s) for $500-$1000 and toss in an Ozified 3.5" lift kit. http://www.ozified.com/current1.htm YYYEEEAAAHHH!!! 10 inch clearance in a beater car plus a steady supply of cheap replacement power trains and bodies! Wreck your car, buy another for $500, swap over your lift and tires... back in action. Might just sell my pathfinder and get out of debt!

I found the Haynes told you to do a lot of extra work. I almost removed my intake manifold as per haynes until a buddy showed me how to do it. The part where it describes how to change the belt is burried in directions to completely tear down the engine.

Check out 7-zip. It is an open source program so is more likely to be free as in beer (no spyware). Closed source, free programs are quite often free as well, but free as in syphilis. Not the same thing. Ever hear of Gator (now Claria). They wrote the book on invasive spyware. Altools might be OK though, I have never looked into them. OK, looked into them. For what it's worth, their privacy statement looks pretty decent. I don't hate them.

If it's a financial question, that's different. I just spent $3000 getting a new engine. Now I think I need a new O2 sensor. Problem is, I don't have $100. Wait till I tell her I want $300 to buy a small generator to use when I go camping with the guys...

I think my O2 sensor is gone too. My check engine light doesn't work, so I wouldn't be able to run any diagnostics, so I don't know for sure. Basically, everything else is new and I get a lot of hesitation and coughing when I accelerate. It is steadily getting worse, so I should prolly do something soon, eh? Oh, I also get about 12 MPG. Just got back from a road trip and had a message to call Mastercard Security department. Turns out that stopping for gas 3 times in 500KM and 5 hours is suspicious activity. Go figure.

Much cheaper then child support would be to just hydraulic lock the engine, then blame her.

I just wish it paid enough for me to buy a house in this area. Picture of me doing the original installation: I'm the guy sitting up top just astern of the satellite dome.

I wouldn't say my self confidence was lacking, just all the other resources. Last month I was fixing a searchlight on a 230' yacht in drydock in Italy. Wouldn't say I am scared of taking stuff apart, just scared that I am never going to be able to afford a house with a garage in this stinken town! Besides, it's cold outside... Your posts helped me realize that it was more then just unbolting it and lifting it out. Now to finish installing the CD player so the kids don't drive me crazy asking for "mother goose rocks" http://www.mothergooserocks.com/headandshoulders.html

Bought my '90 with locking lugnuts on it. Searched everywhere for a key, but couldn't find any. Used a grinder to make 2 flat spots being REAL careful not to hit the sweet chromie rims, then put a large crescent wrench on them. Came off pretty easy. Just the other day I was looking for my papers so I could re-insure it... and found the key in the glove box!!! Where the carp was it when I was looking??? Anyhow, if you are putting nice tires on, you gotta have locking nuts. Buddy of mine had a '68 mustang with American Racing rims and Eagle T/A's. He went out to his car one morning to find it sitting on a pair of jackstands with all the lugnuts off the wheels except for the locking ones. There was also a pretty sweet hydraulic jack under his car. He happily put the nuts back on and tossed his new jack and stands in his trunk. Locking lugnuts rock unless your tires are crap.

I am headed up the Okanagan Valley tomorrow. FFO. Forced Family Outing. Doing a circle visiting various outlaws in Keremeos, Osoyoos, Kelowna, Barriere, and finally Little Fort. I found a sweet BC map book with back roads on it. Little does my wife know, but we are turning this road trip into an Off-Road trip! According to the map book, there are a few corners I can cut to shave some km's from the trip. Oh, and if there isn't much snow on the coquihalla, I am gonna attempt the toll bypass. Next time I am headed up to Kamloops with the guys as opposed to with wife and kids, maybe we can meet at the Bachelor Heights OHV zone or something.

Thanks for all your advice guys, and Slick. Especially Slick. Without your wonderful advice... I might have tried my engine swap myself I am just a bit short on space, time, know-how, and tools to attempt an engine swap. Plus, I have a good mechanic. Long story short, I have a junkyard motor with 140,000KM. Also installed is a main seal, and a new clutch. The throw-out bearing was going, and I was stressing about what to do when it went. Not an issue any more I Really would have liked to do it myself, but my boss keeps sending me to Italy, and there is too much work to be done at work. So I paid my mechanic. Final bill came to about $3K CDN. If I had known it was going to be so much, I might have picked a different route. Too late now though, so no sense complaining! She sure has a lot of power now! Has always been gutless for me, and a real fuel pig. Today on the way home from work, I was thinking that if I am going to keep her (she owes me now!) I better fix that rust bubble forming under the front passenger door, so I stopped at Canadian Tire to get some paint. When I got home, I gave the bubble a bit of a punch just to see what I was up against, and knocked a hole in her. DOH! That was a couple hours ago. I ground off the thick layer of Bondo, cut the rusted metal off, and layed some fiberglass on. I am a rookie bodyman, but I think it will work. It is almost freezing out right now, and am going to wait till it warms up a bit again before I try to make it look purty. Till then, as long as I keep it dirty, you won't be able to tell the difference between the Tremclad and the Nissan paint sssh

Just noticed on that EBAY posting. That water pump looks like a 2WD water pump. Not the same as the 4WD pump.

I think my timing belt was only $30 CDN from the parts store. Ebay is cool for hard to find parts, but stick with your local guys for parts like a timing belt. Plus you get to look at tools while you are there. Even the dealer isn't very much for the belt. Pretty sure the VG30E is a VG30 Engine. Oooh, pretty blue tape. I agree with Radar on making a permanent mark. That way you don't have to mark it every time you pull it apart. Getting to be a habit of mine My "new" engine is missing my mark on the intake manifold. Sounds like you are having fun though, and that's the main thing! Also a good time to get all the feathers out of your radiator. I find that pieces of small birds can hamper the cooling ability of your rad quite severely.

Plug #1: This is the front plug on the passenger side. Put a mark on the intake manifold just above this plug wire. When you are at TDC, if the rotor is pointing anywhere near this mark, it is the compression stroke. If it is way off, it is the exhaust stroke. ILoveMyPatty I would LOVE to help you with your Tbelt, but... it is a bit of a drive. Next time you are headed to the coast, send me a message ahead of time and maybe I can help you out. We could for sure do it in my driveway on a Saturday... provided we had enough beer :-Þ

I was working in Italy repairing a piece of equipment with an australian guy. By the time we finished the repair, he offered me a job. Problem was, he whent into depth about the drought you guys have been having. I dunno if I could handle it. I grew up in the west coast rain forests of BC. Right now, I don't own a nozzle for the end of my garden hose. In between rinse cycles on my pathy, I toss the hose on the ground and let it run. Buddy was saying you would get a huge fine for that in Oz. Other then that it would be pretty cool. Travel is great for broadening your mind and breaking down your stereotypes of other people!

It kinda glazes over the harder parts (at least for me). Things like removing the crank bolt. I didn't want to have to pull the starter to jam the gear, so I found a piece of metal about 3 feet long. I used a pulley to transfer the bolt pattern of the vibration damper onto this bar. I then bolted my bar onto my vibration damper. This allowed me to crank on the bolt without the engine turning over. Maybe you don't need to do this if you have an impact gun. The bolts for the belt covers are all different. I had a buddy draw a picture of the covers with a circle for each bolt. Then, when I pulled each bolt off, I jabbed it into the side of the box in the corresponding hole. Much simpler to re-install. If you gotta drain the rad fluid anyhow, you may as well pull out the rad. I think it is only 2 (or 4) bolts. Then you can toss it in the corner where it is safe from slipping wrenches and such. I hit mine once and scared myself. Busting stuff while trying to fix stuff... sucks! Spark plugs... why would you need to take off spark plugs? Instructions say to replace water pump before removing, or even loosening timing belt. I couldn't even come close to removing pump without fully removing belt. Maybe I missed something? In all an easy job, but I don't think that how-to is very exhaustive. I also found the Haynes manual told me to do a LOT of extra stuff I didn't need. Fortunately I had a buddy who had done one before stop by off and on to give advice. First time I did it I took most of a week. Now I could prolly do it in a Saturday. Mine was a VG30E on a 1990 Pathfinder SE-V6 4X4. Pic's look the same on mine, and are prolly the same on yours. Good luck. If you are in the Vancouver BC area I could drop by to lend a hand. Otherwise, let me know if you want a pic of the tool I made.

If it is mechanical on the passenger side that isn't working, it is pretty easy to fix. When I bought mine, the only lock that worked was the back hatch! The front doors were pretty simple. The little plastic pieces that tend to wear out are pretty cheap at the dealer. I was suprised at how cheap and easy it was to fix. Electrical problem? Um... take it apart and clean everything? I am an electronics technician, but have never pulled apart power locks (yet) so can't advise on that.

I used a buddy that's a machinist. Told him I would kick his @$$ if he broke anything. He said that using a reverse drill is very risky, and he didn't want to do it. If you are drilling into the bolt and it starts to spin, if you aren't 100% parallel to the bolt you run a huge risk of breaking the drill bit. Now you have a hardened piece of steel stuck in your head. Never fun. We used a carbide machining bit to carve a dent into the head of the bolt, then drilled a 1/8" hole and hammered in an easy out. Removed 5 that way. They weren't seized which was good. I found that because the bolt doesn't bottom out, they shouldn't be too tight. It really didn't matter though because 1000km later, my engine blew. Got a "new" motor from a junkyard with totally seized bolts. My mechanic sent it to a machine shop and forwarded the bill to the junkyard. Couple more weeks and I should be back on (off) the road!