RWC5S2
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Posts posted by RWC5S2
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I wish someone made one for my 96. I can't find anything. Is it that different than the 99?
I have seen threads in here addressing that issue. I don't think there is that much difference but do a search to make sure.
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I'm not sure there is a "cheap" anything for the newer R-50's. Best bet is to Google "nissan bull bars and/or check Ebay. You might find ARB and/or OME makes them. Also check 4x4parts.com.
I just checked Ebay......did a search for "nissan bull bar" there are lots and they are about $120.00
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I want to mount some lights to my front bumper. How should I reinforce the area of the bumper that I mount them? I know there is a bit of metal in the bumper itself, but I'm not sure that it is under the flat area that I will be mounting them. Also are there any airbag sensors in the area that I should watch out for?
When I pulled my front bumper off to install the KMA bumper I found no sensors, only plastic and a couple of metal brackets. If you are adding lights other than the factory fog lights you will need to put some metal reinforcement behind the bumper where you want to bolt the new lights. The OEM bumpers are junk and offer no support or protection, just cosmetics.
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Anyone know where to get a cheaper bull bar for an '02?
I'm not sure there is a "cheap" anything for the newer R-50's. Best bet is to Google "nissan bull bars and/or check Ebay. You might find ARB and/or OME makes them. Also check 4x4parts.com.
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right now on my 01 r50 i have 255/65/r16 does anyone know if i can put 265/75/r16 on it without rub
You should be able to fit a 30" tire on the rig with no problems. The only rubbing you should get would be on maximum turns and that would be very minor.
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Mostly good news.....
Spacers are shipping from the waterjet shop to me TODAY! They are in Washington, I'm in Colorado. I should have them early next week. If we want to be optimistic I *might* be able to get them to people before next weekend!
The bad...The shop didn't realize they didn't have enough material so 12 of the 18 have been cut. I hate to ask people to do this but if there is anyone who knows they won't be installing them right away and can wait a couple more days I will split shipping with you. He said these will be cut early next week as well. There will be 3 people who can "take advantage" of this deal on reduced shipping.
Hi Tyler. Just got home from 3-day trip. If it helps I can wait for mine.
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Are you confusing that with fitting the TJM on a newer R50? That's what I had to do to fit mine.
That is quite possible. My memory ain't what it used to be.
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ARB makes one, although it's for the 99.5+, I know a couple people were going to try and fit one on the 96-99's but I dont recall hearing how it went. The issue would likely be some gap, as the grilles stick out more on the newer ones.
Kennesaw Mountain Accessories (KMA) also makes one... although, I've heard of some people having fitting and turn around time issues with their stuff.
There are quite a few threads in the R50 section about bumpers if you try a search.
I got my front bumper from KMA. It took a couple of weeks longer than expected but that was the only problem and the fit was excellent. The quality is good and the options available are great. Guess it is the luck of the draw on them as I know others have had problems. I think the only problem with the ARB was having to trim/cut off a CB antenna mounting point but you should confirm that first.
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I agree. I'll do that as soon as they come in.
On a side note, I just got off the phone with the shop and I'm a little frusterated. They had a few delays on the new machine (yada, yada, yada, I know) and they are now saying mid next week it will be up and running. They needed to order some type of pump today, and it will be in Monday and installed by Wednesday. Or so they say...
I'm not too worried since it's a very reputable shop (check them out at pctmfg.com) but it's been nearly a month since I've collected money and I'm trying to do everything in my power to get these ASAP. If anyone is upset about the wait get in contact with me and I'll refund your money.
I'm confident they will be well worth the wait once they're finished!
What the heck. I have been waiting for a year for some one to make decent spacers, or any other after market R50 parts, so I guess another week will not matter in the long run.
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I went around my wheel wells with a sharp blade and cut off most everything that extended beyond the fasteners. I also drilled a few holes to zip-tie the plastic higher up in the well. Worked well and my 33's only rub if I really stuff them up inside.
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UPDATE:
I got a call from the machine shop today and the drawings are complete. The owner told me they were getting in a brand new Water-jet with all kinds of fancy stuff on it the Monday after next (the 8th). He said that his current machine will cut these no problem but if I wanted to wait another week these parts would be the very first parts off the new machine. He thought it would be a good set of parts to try out the capabilities of the new machine and said that the cut on them should be far superior to their old machine. I told him to go ahead and wait.
I hope I made the right decision in telling him to wait. He said the parts should ship by Wednesday the 10th, and then I'll have to re-box everything up and send it out.
Thanks for being patient everyone.
Works for me. Just let me know when they are ready to go. Thanks again for the effort.
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I have been told by folks that actually rebuild rear ends that you need both LSD Oil and the LSD Additive to properly maintain the LSD. Something about the discs needing all the friction in the LSD oil they can get. It is supposed to make them last much longer. Any how, that is what I did and it works great.
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I have had great success with my LSD off-roading. Normally the left wheel only turns but now I can feel the right side kick in when the left loses traction. True, it is not a locker but, it did not cost $2000 and it fills my needs. Guess it depends on where your are wheeling.
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Also if it IS NOT compatible, can I just add a LSD additive instead of using a different oil?
You will burn out the clutches in the LSD unit by running regular oil. I use LSD Oil plus an additive to make sure there is sufficient lubrication and friction to run the LSD. I did talk to a guy that rebuilds rear ends and was told that using the additive plus the LSD oil will make the LSD work much better, not to mention last longer.
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I've been trying to research this topic as well, and like the original poster, am not looking for a lot of lift at all. In fact, I've just been trying to find the best springs to replace the stock ones, while maintaining close to the same height. Mine are just plain wore out, and I want to get some stability back to the ride. Does anyone have any recommendations for springs that are simply OEM replacements, and where to find them (if the OME's aren't the right ones that is). Thanks.
The only ones I know about are OME and the AC lift coils. The OME choices are the best other than finding a custom shop to build new coils. They most likely have the closest thing to stock. A slight lift will new coils will not hurt anything, carry a bigger load and the rig will look better. A win-win situation.
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I totally understand your confusion, I just went through this too. The parts that Rocky Road sells are the same parts that ARB advertises as being a 1/2" lift. Rocky road sells the front in medium and heavy duty which translates to ARB's parts OME921 and OME923 respectively. ARB refers to these as stock/light and medium loads, adding to the confusion. If you click on the parts at the rocky road website and add them to the shopping cart the OME part number will appear so you can use this to cross reference to the ARB document. It appears that the heavy load front coils (OME928) are not sold by Rocky Road.
Most people on this forum will agree that with the OME923 fronts (refered to as heavy duty by rocky road and most on this board) you will get 1-1/4" to 1-3/4" lift and OME921 fronts (medium) you will get 1 to 1-1/2" and with OME922 rears (medium) you will get 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" lift. Also, most people on this board seem to agree that with this OME lift (either med or heavy duty fronts and medium rears) you do not need to change to manual hubs and you don't have to worry about busting cv joints. However, with that said, swapping to manual hubs is cheap and very easy to do (just did it last week) so it's not a big deal to be on the safe side.
Hopefully that clears things up a bit, anyone else correct me if I'm wrong
All the above info is excellent. I would have to ask why bother with a 1/2" of lift? If that is all you want over stock height just buy some bigger tires. I have the A/C lift which is advertised as 2" but is actually closer to 3". It will sag some after time, mainly in the front. This amount of lift will not trash the CV's all by itself. Quite a few folks on this board are running the AC lift and have been for a long time. Mine is over 1 year old. I have been places I most likely should have not gone but made it through quite well. The guys I off-road with are all Jeepers with 4-6" of lift and like to crawl over rocks the size of a Buick. Almost all trails have an easier route if you are not into the rocks. I do run 33" tires which helps get over bigger obstacles.
The R-50's all come with 33 spline axels which are unreal strong. You would have to do something really stupid to break one. I have added the Warn Hubs to mine which is an easy and pretty cheap addition. With them you can dis-connect the front axels while not off-road. Also, if you do actually snap a CV joint you can still disconnect and drive home. The Warn's are just a great safety precaution for wheeling in the pucker bushes.
Guess it boils down to what you want to do in the dirt. The Pathfinders are very sturdy off-roaders. Mine does stuff that all the Jeep folks can not believe.
Keep in mind that the more off-roading you do, the more you want to do. What looks like a really scary obstacle the first time will fast become nothing more than a speed bump and you will want to do more things.
My humble opinion, and it is not guranteed to be worth much, is to go for the AC lift ( or similar OME ), run at least 31" tires, get the Warn Hubs and pick up a limited slip diff. You will be amazed and very happy with what your Pathfinder will do for you.
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Thanks for the info! I think I'm going to be buying the AC lift and getting some 1" spacers in the near future. (not to mention new tires/wheels)
Stock Pathy, be no more...
Save your self some bucks and get the AC lift and spacers to install at the same time. Unless you are set up to do it yourself then it won't matter. I have to pay some one to do mine since I do not have the required tools. That and the spring compressor would most likely break and rip my head off.
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It will add 1" to the AC lift. You only need 1 pair. One spacer per side for the 1" lift. They will not work on the rear.
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Sorry to keep this going back and forth, but would the combination of an AC lift, manual locking hubs, and the 1" spacers mentioned in the other thread be a bad combination? Is that bad for the CVs? If not, what tires could I be running?
I have the AC lift and am adding 1" spacers in the front. I am running 33x9.5x15 BFG AT's with very, very little rub. I did add the Warn Hubs so I only use the CV's when in the dirt. I was thinking of going with 2" of spacer lift in the front but after jacking up the front and seeing the actual radical increase on the CV angle from 1" to 2" decided to just go with the 1". The 9.5's are not good for sandy conditions but work quite well on dirt and rock.
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Use a 3/8" diameter grade 8 bolt. The fine thread works better and stays tight better. I would use a regular washer on both the top and bottom of the bolt and a lock washer wouldn't hurt. Use grade 8 washers if you can too. They won't compress as much and help keep those bolts from loosening up.
Cool. Thanks for the info. I shall be salivating in anticipation of receiving my shiney new spacers.
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Stock shaft length is 1.10 in.
Now I know the length but, what size bolts are they, 3/8, 1/4, 1/2 etc. Since the bolts have to be replaced to accommodate the spacers does it matter if they are fine or coarse thread? Would it be better to use a lock washer or just torque them down.
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Thanks, got the PM. I'll send you one back here in a minute. These spacers are the full 1" this time.
It would be awesome if I could get someone who got spacers last time to fill me in on the length of those bolts I sent out. They're Grade 8, 3/8" diameter fine thread but I can't remember the length. I can still collect hardware on them for people, I just screwed myself over last time and charged $5 or so for $20 worth of hardware.
I can get the bolts here. Just need the right size. Sorry to hear you lunched your engine. I will Pay-Pal you the $50.00 deposit.
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Hi Tyler. I left you a PM but will post here too. Count me in for 1 set. Hopefully they are 1" but what the heck. Let me know where you prefer the money to be sent. If I understand right the total will be $110.00 which includes postage. Also, if you could let me know the size of the Grade 8 bolts I will need it would be a big help.
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I must admit to appreciating a little luxery while in the dirt. Every one I go with has a Jeep and, yes they can go places I can not, mainly due to them having 5"-6" of lift, 35" tires, disconnects, etc. But, I can run my AC all day long with out over heating. This is nice in the hot, dusty, miserable desert out here in So. Calif. A little bit of creature comfort is a good thing.
Leveling Spacers Are Being Made
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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Oh, sure. It's the hardware's fault. lol...............looking pretty good.