battleax

Thanks everyone. I think I'll have to take care of this where I am. Long shot, but does anyone know a good transmission shop in western Massachusetts???

Thanks, bowtie. Fluid is great, there is enough and the color is good. I've been in limp mode before, and if I remember correctly (besides the blinking E-AT button) the truck really didn't want to go above 2500 rpm or thereabouts...but I have no problem with revving in 3rd now. I was accelerating in OD at about 65mph when this happened...it just dropped into 3rd, no "neutral" high-revving. She's been parked at a shop since Friday night, and if they don't try to reset the computer I guess I will. No stored codes. ALSO: as all this was happening, the fuel warning light would flicker on and off with a 3/4 tank. What does THAT mean? Precise: I've got two Hayden coolers. For all I know R went 30 miles before the rest of it did and I only noticed it missing when I parked and then tried to back up.

Hey all, So I think my transmission is getting ready to kick the bucket...two nights ago there was a clunk noise and I lost reverse, first and OD. Second and third still seem to do OK (in fact, did OK for another 20 miles.) Problem is, I'm about 250 miles from home right now. Is it worth trying to get the pathfinder home over that distance or should I expect a total loss of gears in the nearer future? (This is a 1990, Auto, with 123k on the odo.) Thanks for any opinions...

Well I finally got to talk to someone today. BTW, it seems tirepackage.com is now a subsidiary of 4wheelparts.com. I guess they're just a little slow in the customer service department. Doubt I'm getting burned. SteeevO, thanks for the offer though.

Has anyone here had bad experiences with these guys? I placed and order with them last week, and received no confirmation of the order. I can't remember a time when I bought something online and didn't receive an email confirmation within 24 hours. No one answers at their customer service number. No responses to emails or phone messages that I've left so far. Those of you who have dealt with them, have they been slow to respond in the customer service dept.? I'm a little spooked because a google search for their parent company, "United Web Sales," turns up a couple bad stories. But encouraging stories are welcome too...

Got it.

thanks guys...i'll get right on this

mzx: sorry man, I lost you there, what does "tapping" for zerk fittings entail?

I knew this would be a problem, and after a few weeks with cranked up sway-a-ways, they've started making noise. It's hard to impress people with a big bad V-6 when it keeps squeaking like a squirell getting hit with a mallet. 2 questions before I unbolt the spindles: Are those poly bushings going to come out easy? Are there any proceedures I should follow when re-greasing the bushings to keep them quieter for longer? all I want for Christmas is calmini... thanks all.

This is a '90 automatic... So i was out on the trails last night, and fell into a VERY big mud hole- it took about 2 hrs for us to push and pull the pathy through what became a glorified k-turn. obviously, the truck was periodically revved high (up to 4k in 4-Lo) during this time, and the tranny was packed in mud. At one point, there was a nasty pop and then some scraping from the front end, but as soon as i let off the gas it stopped and then did not reoccur...the truck ran just fine through the rest of the ordeal. My bud who was pushing said that at that point he smelled something like a broken head gasket, but now I'm pretty sure that was not the case (after checking temp, coolant, exhaust, oil, etc. for the familiar signs). BUT- upon getting back out, the tranny started behaving strangely: it was very sluggish off the line (felt like it was trying to start in 3rd), and refused to go above 3,000rpms. I brought it back into town very slowly, the engine ran smooth and cool and the tranny shifted well, just never above 3k rpms. I parked it and restarted the engine: the power switch on the dash blinked at me. At this point it was late, so I said screw it, I'll run the diagnostic tests in the morning. So yeah, I had a few nightmares about the torque converter last night. This morning: start it right up (no blinking of the power switch, but I run the tests anyway, they turn up normal.), she accelerates, shifts and runs right up to the redline no problem, as if nothing had ever happened. This has been the case all day today. Temp. is fine, fluids are fine, truck runs great. So it looks to me like the TCU put the pathy in "limp home mode" last night, right? But why would it do that if there is nothing wrong? or, Why would it seem like nothing is wrong when something really is? Anyone heard/seen this before? Thanks!

Sorry guys, but this story doesn't have a happy ending; I gave up this afternoon (after two days of PB, winch, propane and hammer) and brought the truck into a shop to have them weld the torsion bar off and smack the end out of the anchor arm; hopefully the splines in there are ok (because the nissan dealer wants $45 for the anchor arm ) I guess the former owner overtorqued the whole thing or something, so the lesson to be drawn here is be careful with your t-bars. Also, my dust boots were pretty torn up and I'll bet that didn't help matters much either. Thanks for the input anyway!

Hey all, I've been on this board for a while but haven't done much posting, so first let me say thanks to all of you who are posting all this stuff- my pathfinder wouldn't be what it is today without npora. Here's a problem for ya: I was hoping to put some sway-a-ways in my '90 pathy today, but the old passenger side bar absolutely refuses to budge from the rear anchor on the crossmember (driver's side came out with a couple light taps!). Right now I'm pulling on it with a comealong winch from the front, PB'ing the thing and banging on it from behind like hell every half hour or so, and smoking a lot of cigarettes and saying a lot of bad words...I'm just about out of ideas here...I messed arround with a gear puller but that wouldn't work, tried just yanking it with a friends truck, that didn't work, either. So, two questions: 1. Anyone have any tricks/creative ideas? (yeah, i know, "more PB blaster") 2. What's the worst case scenario here if the t-bar has really welded itself into the anchor arm? :help:

1 pour la direction= rancho steering stabilizer, non?

Can anyone comment on AC's .5'' spacers for aftermarket UCA's? Anyone run into a similar problem there?