ninoj

Here are the wires in order of what I found: White, Blue w/Red Stripe, Blue w/White Stripe, Blue w/Black Stripe, Blue w/yellow stripe = Drivers Button Working correctly, Passenger button in reverse. White, Blue w/Black Stripe, Blue w/White Stripe, Blue w/Red Stripe, Blue w/yellow stripe = Passenger Button Working correctly, Driver button in reverse.

I had a problem with the wiring harness for the passenger power window. The button was working in reverse and up was down and down was up. I switched the order of the wires which fixed the problem, but now the drivers side button for that is in reverse. Anyone know the color order of the wires?

Just replaced these sway bar and the clunk is still there. I am thinking maybe it is the inner and outer tie rods.

I know the timing belt is coming up to be changed in 6K. As far as the injectors, I don't know how to check those.

I will give this a go tomorrow morning. What should the pressure be around for a proper reading?

Where is the starter located? I will try tapping on it.

I changed all these parts after experiencing this problem. There is an ECU code for Intake Air Temperature Sensor. The engine could be hot or cold, it doesn't matter.

Very cool! Mine does not die really, when cranking it will miss and then just keep cranking over and over. It will get soooo close to starting then it wont start until I come back after 5 minutes.

Thanks for the detailed reply, and it does miss and die. How did you know that? The air filter is also new. I will clean the throttle body tomorrow morning. I was wondering what a Seafoam treatment is? I will also try the fuel pump test you reccomended. I do appreciate the help. I've been trying to figure this out for months!

It has about 93K on it, I also changed the fuel filter with the spark plugs. Also it idles at 700 rpm. The funny thing is when it idels with my foot on the brake I can hear it sort of oscillating but it does not affect the rpms.

Just ordered a used sway bar for $50 bucks and bought some new bushings from the dealer at $15 for both. I wil install these tomorrow and post the results.

The car sometimes won't start. I try to start it but it seems like it is going to start, then misfires a bit and just keeps cranking over. If I try to restart it immediately it won't go, but if I wait 5 minutes or so, it starts bang on. Anyone have an idea what it could be? I tried using a different key in case the other key was enabling the immobilizer but it happens with both keys. I also tried using a much more powerful battery but the problem is still there. I have also changed the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor with no luck. **EDIT** Well now it does not start at all. I was reading other posts and some say its the dirstibutor. **EDIT** I added a video for you to see what I am experiencing. Please watch! UPDATE: The problem was fixed! It seems like the EGI Relay went bad. The dealer kindly found the problem and switched the relay with the keyless relay to verifiy the problem was resolved without having to replace any parts. I will have to get a new relay because now the keyless entry won't work as the problem is confirmed fixed.

Yup, the fob was brand spanking new.

The bar is held in place by these two brackets, heavy duty metal ones, which one side of the bar is touching and slowing being bent and deformed.

I just ordered the sway bar. We noticed it was digging into the fram from being bent. So I will post the results sway bar replacement.

Would you know the model of keyless fob I would need? Model 01/A?

List your features here and I will try to help you figure it out. Like power windows, sunroof.....

I am pretty sure it has a keyless remote, it is a 1999.5 LE model.

I replaced the stabilizer links, I think the problem is the entire bar itself.

The light does flash so I know there is power there. I will take a look at the connections and post my findings. Thanks.

I never had a keyless entry remote or fob when I purchased the car 2 years ago. I went to the dealer to pick one up and they were unable to program the keyless entry remote. I went to another dealer and he had the same problem and were not able to program it is well. I am thinking there is a problem with the Theft/Locking, keyless entry (dash left side) computer box. Do you think this would warrant replacing it or should I try something else?

I have a clunk noise on the driver side. This clunk happens when i put the car in reverse or in drive and when I go over bumps. I replaced the ball joints and the stabilizer links and the noise is still there. I took a look after I placed the car on a hoist and it looks like the sway bar or stabilizer bar is bent. It is touching the bracket on the driver side and digging into the car. I will replace the bar and bushings, what else would I need to change?