gxl90rx7
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Posts posted by gxl90rx7
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If it is idle rough on startup, its probably not your o2 sensor, since the o2 usually has to be warmed up to work anyway. but yeah, i bought a new o2 with the intention of replacing the old one, but when i saw that i would have to reroute it all the way back up to the connector... i still havent done it, been putting it offwhat's it take to swap out an o2 sensor? mine's completely fubar'd, and my truck runs like it's about out of gas until it warms up. I've never changed one before, and the new one looks pretty basic, but I wasn't sure. I figured at the very least, my main problem will be getting the old one out, since everything else on the truck I've tried to replace has fought me every step of the way. -
When im sitting in traffic, ive been smelling this burning oil smell, but it actually smells a lot like burning popcorn. I started noticing it a couple months after i bought it, its been happening for about a year now. No oil leaks, engine temps normal, tranny oil temps normal (aftermarket temp gauge), drives perfect and no other problems i can tell. any ideas? could it be just oil near the the exhaust manifold where it may be leaking from the oil filter?
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we should all meet up sometime for a carolina's meet/run. i missed the noas fall run URE last year. maybe a meet there or gulches?
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its not stealing members, since its not about pathfinders. sounds like a good idea, will check it out
**EDIT: From the original "A VG Community" Topic
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most people are running 4.0" backspace i believe 4.25 is too much.
the less backspacing you have, the further your wheels will stick out, the more it will rub on the fender flares. I have 15x8 with stock backspacing (4.75") and 31" tires, no lift, and it doesnt rub any after trimming the flares a little
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i would just fix it/get it fixed if i were you. if you buy another pathy, you never know what may break next with it. if you get yours fixed, you know that that part *should* be good for the next 100k or so. I always opt for fix than replace (for the same price or less), cause whenever you fix something, you just make your vehicle that much more reliable, vs buying another person's problem
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are you talking about removing teh air filter assy? if you remove it and put a cone filter instead, it will probably lose power because it will be sucking in hot engine bay air instead of cool fenderwell air.
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you bored your maf over....
and you compensated your fuel tune how?
your maf will compensate for it, hence 'mass airflow sensor'
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thats how i did it, i pushed on a scale to feel what 22 lbs felt like, then pushed the same amount down on the belt, and adjusted the tension for 15mm
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running higher than recommended octane will in no way clean out deposits.. the definition of octane rating is the 'to resist detonation or pre-ignition (knock).' Which usually means less ability of the fuel to burn completely. Which means, a lot of unburnt fuel will be left after the combustion cycle, leaving carbon deposits, etc. im surprised you noticed better fuel economy with 94 oct vs recommended. sure, higher octane has more energy content, but is usually canceled out by its resistance to combustion
here is a good article that explains it:
http://www.answers.com/topic/octane-rating-1
sorry bout the thread hijack
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I would do a full tuneup first, timing belt, fuel filter, air filter, o2 sensor, plugs&wires, all fluids changed, etc. then an external tranny cooler
i wouldnt worry about performance mods until all the reliability mods/maintenance have been taken care of
manual locking hubs are another common upgrade, as the stock auto-locking hubs break pretty easily. If only one side is broken, your whole front axle will be useless in 4x4
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I just changed my t-belt last weekend. mine had no mark on the crank gear either, what i did is count the ribs on the belt. 40 between the marks on the 2 cam gears, 43 between the marks on the driver's side cam gear and the crank gear.
The other problem i had was tightening the crank bolt. pretty much impossible to do on an auto without a impact gun, ill probably drive it to a shop to get fully tightened. an easy way to loosen it is put a breaker bar on it, tie it up somewhere next to the frame on the pass side, and give the engine a quick turn with the starter, lol. kinda risky if the breaker bar gets loose, but it gets the job done if you do it right, and is a hell of a lot easier than taking the starter off and jamming the flywheel.
and i also found out my t-stat housing is stripped out on the far bolt-hole, so its impossible to tighten down all the way. I RTV'd it to hell and back, hopefully it wont leak
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one of mine is missing too. i think we have a cowl thief on our hands
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pump up the tires to about 30 or so, put at least 1 tank of premium in it and run it all the way through, that should burn out most gunk accumulated in the engine from short trips..
just so you know, running premium fuel will not help burn out engine gunk, if anything, it will leave carbon deposits from the unburnt fuel. higher octane fuel is designed to not burn well for high compression/forced inducted engines to prevent pre-ignition..
87 is best for our pathys (unless your turbo'd or running high compression crankshaft or something)
good luck on your trip back, dont sell it!! but yeah interstate driving is not the best for mine, i usually have it floored just to keep up with traffic on the uphills at 80 mph!
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one of my friends was over in san diego for a business trip, and he wasnt really used to the area, nor the fast-paced traffic. he told me he was driving along on the interstate, trying to follow directions to his destination, and quickly attracted a tailgater..
there was a lot of traffic, my friend was in the middle lane, tailgater right behind. everyone started slowing down in front of him, but still going at a good pace, probably 50-60mph. well tailgater didnt like the idea of slowing down more than he had already, so he pulled into the left lane to pass, accelerator to the floor. Unknownst to the tailgater, the traffic was slowing for a stalled car in the left lane . My friend said the car came up beside him, looked over and frowned as he realized his imminent doom.. the next thing he said happend in slow motion - tires screeching followed by the tailgator plowing head first right into the stalled car, glass and other assorted car parts flying across the windshield of my friend's rental car as he passed by, haha
he was freaked out, he thought the guy must have died or at least injured really bad lol, but never stopped to find out
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/\ well said. i made it sound like i tailgate all the time, i really dont, im really an easy going speed-limit driver. It just bugs me when people endanger others' lives over something as simple as tailgating. I always assume there could be valid reason for tailgators.. what if they are rushing a loved one to the hospital, or need to catch an life-altering flight/appt/etc? I know a majority are just being rude, but you never know
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some of you guys are jackasses.. talking about spraying pee and cracking windshields, brake-checking, causing wrecks just because someone is following you a little close?? bunch of babies.. oh noes someone is too close to me, i cant handle it cause im a *****
i dont make it a habit to tailgate people, but ill keep it withing a few carlengths if they are gonig below the speed limit. Ive been brake-checked a couple of times - both from soccer moms. nothing pisses me off more than $#&%tards that brake-check tailgaters, how does causing a wreck solve your problem?? I dont give a @!*% if anyone tailgates me, so what, as long as your not hitting me im 100% fine with it..
/rant
sorry i had to get that out, the windshield wiper stories are funny though, that is something i dont mind, it doesnt do any harm
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Add headers, a new cat and exhaust and a free-flowing air filter. Voila, 20 HP or so magically appears.
More free flowing intake/exhaust usually adds only high-rpm power. It usually has no affect or even hurts low-end torque.
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I recently changed my transfer case fluid, and it became a LOT easier to shift between modes. You may want to check/change your fluid
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i guess it would be a cool idea, but part of the reason i like my pathy is that it was so cheap... I dont think i would buy a brand new "reproduction" for $20k, i would rather find a fixer upper, and spend whats leftover on upgrades..but thats just me
it would be nice to have 270hp though
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Id bet money its a bad hub.. how often do CV joints just break like that? It only takes 5 minutes to take your hub apart
here is what mine looked like, the tabs had broken off:
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how could the timing belt tensioner cause the noise?
I have the diesel sound too, slight tapping sound all the time. it may be quieter when warmed up, but still sounds like a diesel.
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I would check your hubs before anything else, they are prone to breaking and are not hard to take apart.
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Try to find someone with a MAF you can borrow. swap it out and see if the problem goes away. If it is running lean, it could also be a vacuum leak - check your vacuum hoses for cracks, etc.
Ive also heard of a trick where you spray carb cleaner near suspect vacuum lines with the engine running, and if the idle goes up or sounds different, you have a leak in that area.
stupid me - stuck in the mud
in General Forums
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nice.. i got stuck on my first outing with the pathfinder too haha Thats when i found out my auto hubs were not locking, so all i had was 2wd