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Posts posted by 5523Pathfinder
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How much do you have the t-bars cranked?
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Yes, it's the green relay. Well, the only way to test it is to give it power and see if the relay clicks. But if it's intermittent, it may work whenever you test it. You could tap in it when your rig doesn't start.
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EFI relay over on the right fender. Mine went out and I'd loose all power then not start. A few minutes sitting and it would fire right back up.
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Had to change my vote up to the 250,000-300,000 category.
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Oil change, belts, tire rotation and greased everything. Happy Homie!
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I have personally seen quick lube shops try to ruin many a automobile. Here is a good article I read not long ago...
http://jalopnik.com/lazy-idiots-at-lube-shop-cut-hole-in-audi-s4s-aero-pan-1748394648
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Another name- Speedy sleeve.
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http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37521-cb-radio-install-location/?hl=location
There are lots of CB radio threads and pics from other members rigs. Here is a link to take you to the search. Type in cb radio or antenna, then select titles only. You should get a long page of threads!
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Main EFI relay. Mine did this exact same thing when it failed. It's located on the right fender well in the black relay box. It's a green relay. The relay box is labeled.
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I gotta say, there are some great pics! Tough decision for sure!
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K thanks. Ever change a timing belt on a pathy? Looks like a chore
Many, many times....
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12828-how-to-change-your-timing-belt/page-1
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Pretty low as damage may continue ever time you crank it. I would tear it down and put the belt on then try and start it and see how it runs. Most likely looking at some bent valves.
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The lid of your Ecuador should of had a part number sticker on it. Just match one up.
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You said you swapped tires, how about the wheels? Possibly bent or out-of-round wheel could cause vibration issues. I recommend having the wheels and tires balanced on a machine that measures road force.
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Some parts stores may carry it, but may need to order it. I got mine at Napa but on Redlines website it says most major parts retailers carry it. Of course, you can always buy it online.
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iirc the detergents are to aggressive for the soft parts in our transmissions. Straight GL-4 only, no GL-5 or "GL-4 Compatible"
Perhaps 5523Pathfinder will chime in on this, he used RP before his trans died, I'm just not sure about the exact product he used. Mine died about the same time and we both opted for RedLine MT50 in our replacements. No problems since and this is the fluid many opt for, often after learning the hard way.
Yep, I did. I used RP Syngear 70-90w that is compatible with gl-4 and gl-5. Now to be fair, my transmission was already going due to a previous service before I bought my rig. I bought it with 86k on it and made it to around 135k before having to change the transmission. By no means did the RP fluid save or deminish the internals. It was a band aid. After swapping in another transmission, I filled it with Redline mt50 as Red stated. I just flipped 250k this morning and have had no issues with my transmission since.
I do recommend the Redlne Mt50 though. It is formulated for the softer metal that our gears and components are made out of. The "compatible" fluids can have additives that weaken those metals.
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Did and done! Thanks anyway B. Some of us appreciate your efforts and hard work around here. Next year, it's on like Donkey Kong!
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I've had my lockrite installed for quite some time now and its definitely been over 100,000 miles. I've never had a vibration from the locker nor should I. If the adjustment rings were installed wrong you would of felt it a long time ago and probably damaged some of the teeth on the ring and pinion. Being it sounds like you eliminated a tire issue for the most part, my guess is that have a u-joint going bad. Inspect all the u-joints including those on the front axle. Does your vibration shake the steering wheel or the body?
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Or the MAF itself. You may want to try and clean it.
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You need to remove the seal that holds it in. Yes, you will need a new seal. You can pry it out with a large screwdriver or pry bar. The bearing will then fall out.
Superlift ucas
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
If the rear is lifted also, I recommend having the front lower by 3/4 to 1 inch than the rear.