CO94LEV6

Thanks for all the input. It's great to see the creativity that comes out with everyone's ideas. My fix was just to realign the latch loop. It was just a little skewed and it seems to be working for the moment. We will see if it lasts.

Thanks for the help everyone. 94extreme gave me what I needed to be productive in my search. I was looking for a push button type switch and I now know that's not the case. I've been an active member on other car forums in the past, but now have a new project car so this forum is going to be my new home for awhile. The one thing that I noticed is that this forum does not have as many links as I've seen on other forums. I always try to make the posts have a solution not just a "start over", or "dead end" mentality. Meaning that every word that we write and every post that we add is creating an ever expanding library of information. Inevitably somebody will search for "hatch switch" and this post will pop up on the search database. When that member opens the post and sees "do a search" as the responce rather than a link to a post that has the answer, you just made that post a useless dead end. Not only do you not help the original member that posted, you are building and supporting the creation of a library of useless posts. I'm sorry that I was not knowledgeable enough to know that the switch and latch were integrated together, but forums are meant to be a sharing of information and experiences. It is upon this that we create an environment that supports our shared interest in pathfinders and we help each other as work through our challenges.

I found this post that was helpful. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...hl=hatch+switch

Thanks for the info. One thing I've noticed on this forum is that when you do a search you find a lot of people saying to do a search, but nobody makes a link to he post that actually has all the information. Not trying to be unapprieciative, but it helps to have the link available when trying to narrow down the search.

That makes sense. Thanks.

On my 94 LE there is some sort of switch or sensor to the right of the windshield wiper motor mounted on a bracket that has a brown wire coming from the bottom of it. The top of it was broken off and I saw a spring dangling out of the mechanism. What is this and what does it do? What is the name of the part so that I can order a replacement?

Okay, so on my 94 LE the lights under the dash by my feet stay on and drain my battery. When I push on the rear hatch I am able to get it to turn off. I cannot tell if it is when I push on the glass or if it is the main hatch itself. Where is the switch that turns off the interior lights? It seems to be somewhere in one of the catches. Is this really the case? Is anyone familiar with this area that can give me some guidance before I start tearing things apart on my hatch? I also get my door open light to come on my dash quite frequently. I am thinking they are caused by the same switch/sensor in the rear hatch. Any help would be appreciated.

To improve performance think cold air in and hot air out. Removing the manifold covers increases the air temp under the hood and if you are pulling this hot air into the air intake than you will lose power. A modification of adding cold air intake helps to bypass this problem. You also see cars with thermal spacers that stop the transfer of conductive heat from the engine to the intake manifold. A hot intake manifold also heats up the incoming air and you loose power. On the exhaust side you want to keep the exhaust hot to keep the velocity up as it exits the tailpipe. As the exhaust cools, it expands and slows velocity and increases backpressure reducing power. Thus the header tape that someone mentioned earlier. The problem with header tape is that it can hold moisture against the header and cause premature corrosion to the pipes. My last car project car was a turbo and that's why intercoolers are installed to reduce the temp of the air going into the engine. BTW having one side with a manifold cover on and the other side without is theoretically a very bad idea. Exhaust systems are designed for a venturi effect. Meaning the timing of the exhaust pulses out of the engine are timed and actually assist in pulling exhaust gases out of the cylinders as the engine fires. Uneven cooling of the exhaust gasses on both sides of the engine could upset this timing. This is generic engine performance theory, I haven't messed with my pathfinder enough to see what (if any) difference it makes to our engines, but on some engines the difference is noticeable. I personally have ceramic coated pacesetter headers that seem to work fine. I've had them for about 5 years so I can't really remember what it was like before with the stock manifold. I do remember that the headers did not fit properly and the installer had to customize the fit. Welding coated headers is not fun. He had to grind off the ceramic coating at the area of the welds. One benifit that nobody has mentioned is that the aftermarket headers are significantly lighter that the stock manifolds. The lighter the vehicle the less power it takes to get you moving.

Nice to see another person from Colorado. Where is Black Forrest? I'm in Carbondale.

I installed a new switch from Napa and my high beams work now. Thanks for the help.

Where is the module located? I have a problem that both of my high beams don't work. Also, anyone have a link to the switch problem that may have already been discussed?

Thanks. I would most likely get new longer hoses for power steering and gas filler neck if they are available. Now the difficult question is where to get these parts. I have a NAPA close by and I would think that they would have them realitively available. If anyone has web sites with the part numbers that would save a bit of homework on my part. What would be the specs on the longer bolts? Anyone? I would rather gather as many parts from the experience that others have rather than try to reinvent the wheel to figure out which parts are the right ones to buy.

Nytrosfinder... I just asked the same question. My last project car had several guys that sold chips that you put into the ecu. And they were originally soldered from the factory. You just use a desoldering gun and remove the old chip, resolder a socket for the new chip, plug it in and you are done. It was not the BS chips they sold on ebay, but were truly reprogramed with different fuel curves to get more power. They also removed the speed limiter that was programmed into the ecu to prevent you from going too fast.

Does anyone make upgraded chips for the ecu to get more power?

So where would you get the Trail Master Body Lift for a '94? I haven't been able to find it. What other parts are specifically needed to get the lift installed? What hoses, wiring, etc?