ankana

http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...fcc040687af8b56 I believe this is the page where I found the kit that I bought. As I said it's been a few months so do your own investigation.

There are two reasons for me to relocate the oil filter. First and foremost, it's a pain in the ass to remove without getting oil all over my starter motor. Secondly, -which now I realize is kinda the same as the first, so maybe I only have one reason- I plan to replace my stock exhaust manifold with headers and I would imagine there will be even less room to extricate an old filter brimming with oil with that set-up. I don't know if heat is a consideration unless you plan on running the hoses thru your headers, which I would strongly advise against. So the answer is, to prevent dirty oil from getting on your nice clean starter.

Okay. my sarcasm alarm is going off... Are you giving me a hard time for all the pictures I've been posting about my crank problem?

I believe I have found the ultimate oil filter relocation spot. As soon as I finish cutting a new keyway in my crankshaft I will share the details. You guys are gonna lik this!

Action, drama, suspense... I think I need a beer, maybe two...

Top veiw of first two two cuts that that I made. I think this is actually going to work! :bow:

Made the first couple of cuts today and it looks to be a complete sucsess! I am going to have a freind of mine who is a trade school welding instructor repair the places where there is material missing before I go any further.

I am going to attempt to do this using a die grinder mounted to an articulating x-y table with the crank still in the vehicle. Thus the strange looking angle mounted to the block in the pictures. I believe that the corners will have a small radius because the medium that I'll be using to make the slot. I'll get another picture when I get it all set up hopefully later today. Thanks for your suggestions. I wish this thing had a spell check! I constantly have to re-edit these things right after I post them. Especially when I try to use big words.

I purchased an oil filter relocation kit a few months back and have yet to install it. There are two reasons for my hesitation. The kit came with cheesy hose that kinks easily and fittings that press fit with no clamps. Although I could partially relieve my anxiety with some hose clamps, the kinky part still bugs. From what I have read, most mount their filter inside the wheel well. My guess is that this was dictated by the length of hose that shipped with the kit. It seems to be a fine place for access , but a bad place for potential damage to the filter/ hoses. I think I'd like to get some longer braided steel hose to replace the ones that came with it. That way I can be sure of the integrity of the hose and can mount it wherever I want to. It should look cool as well...Bonus! For those of you who have installed one of these, where did you put the filter, and what are your thoughts on the result?

Think I'm figuring this picture thing out. Are these too big for everyone? I'll let you know if the operation is a success. Only thing I'm worried about is taking too much meat out of that crank and weakening the end so much I cause more problems. I suppose all I can do is try it. Obviously I think it will work out okay, or I would be buying another engine instead.

previous picture was the set up for cutting new keyway. this one shows the damage. OUCH!!!!!

UPDATE................. CAUTION...NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART... COULD BE DISTURBING TO SOME. I know it shook me up whin I first saw it. Took the problem to th dealer. As usual it turned out to be something I should have figured out but didn't. So instead it was a $400 lesson that I will not soon forget. Oh. and that was not to fis the problem. In fact they wanted $3000 plus to put in a USED motor. Oh my god! What is worse is that the thing that caused the problem was $1 part. The woodruff key that holds the timing gear in place had turned to dust, badly damaging the groove in the crank and had allowed the gear to turn about 15 degrees on the shaft. Liucky for me the thing stopped at that or I'd be looking at a bigger problem. The mechanic didn't want to even mess with it and charged me $90 for a diagnosis fee and $290 to tear down the front end of the motor. Pretty good money cause I can do it in less than an hour. Oh well, I allways feel a little dirty after a trip to factory service. My soulution is going to be to cut a full keyway for both the timing gear and the hamonic balancer. I think it's going to work as soon as I can mount my x/y table to the engine block. I'll post pictures if anyone is interested. By the way, the woodruff key for the Harmonic Balancer was almost as bad as the timing gear. I get the feeling that others will be seeing this problem as well. Mine has over 200K mi. on it, but I'd bet if you have alot of miles on yours, you should replace those woodruff keys so It won't happen to you. Or not.

Mine has had rust developing on the inside under the pasenger rear seat. The curious part is that there is an persistant acidic residue that is associated with this spot. ( I actually tasted it cause it looked like the stuff that forms around your battery post- and sure enough, it's acid. ) I've cleaned and painted the spot, but is keeps coming back. Pretty strange.

I replaced the timing belt today, just because I couldn't expalin th timing being off any other way. When I got the fron end apart, it all looked as it should. So that is not the problem. I ran thru the diagnostics and all checked out in mode III as before code 55. mode 5 returned a flashing green light when I reved the engine above about 2000 rpm and there was no error code in my shop manual for that. I checked the continuity between the crank angle sensor connector and the ECU and made sure I was getting power to the sucker. It all checked out O.K. and now I'm stuck again. Someone said it could still be my cat converter, but I don't see how it would start and run fine util it warms up if that were the case. I think the dealer is going to get my money after all.Last time I took a vehicle to a mechanic I got ripped off. It just kills me to give up on this.

Thanks for the information. 88pathoffroad-The open/closed loop thing makes alot of sense given what is occurring. I have successfully been thru the ECU self-diagnostic in mode three. As I get the five blinks on both red and green, which should mean that all systems check out in that mode. I am not sure if I'm doing it correctly in mode five. because I'm not getting any feedback while in real-time. My guess is that I will get my answer if I can figure out how to work this mode. I'm going to play with that again this morning. I do have spark still. One more clue I discovered yesterday. I put a timing light on it. The timing was way off. I attempted to adjust if into spec and was unable to. The distrubuter bumps up against the valve cover before I can get to 15 degrees. I was suspecting a slipped timing belt, but that doesn't explain why it will run fine till it warms up. I understand there is a timing/cranck angle sensor in the distributor. Right now that's the way I'm leaning. mzextreme- My 93 Pathfinder has 240K miles on it, but up to now, I've had very little problem with it. This started as a really sluggish engine that felt like it was not breathing too well. I was suspecting a plugged catalytic converter when it suddenly stopped idling properly. govols74n- I have indeed been playing with that connector. There seems to be alot of banter about that troublesome bugger on this forum. Mookie- Eventually it dies because the RPMs get so low. If I rev up the engine I can keep it running -badly- Once the engine gets hot, it will no longer start though. I had noticed that when I was going downhill, some subdued backfiring in the exhaust. And yes, the engine has been really sluggish for quite some time. Thanks to all for your comments, You have given me some good insight. I don't do well when I can't figure problems out and this one had me pretty frustrated.

I have the problem you were discussing on the Nissan forum a while back. My Pathy will start and run fine until it warms up then it sputters and dies as soon as it gets up to operating temp. One potential solution someone suggested was the thermostat? I replaced mine not too long ago, so I'm having a hard time believing that is the solution. It kinda makes sense, but there were those comments saying that there was no heat override circuit. I have done the diagnostic and got 55 for a return. I disconnected the connectors associated with the coolant system, no effect. I tried dissconnecting most of the connections on top/front of the engine as well. They registered the appropriate error code when I did. Still no effect. I contacted my local dealer who responded as I expected " Bring it down and we'll charge you $90" even though they could tell me exactly what the problem is over the phone. Gotta make a buck I suppose. The factory manual I have has a great troubleshooting section, but none of their suggestions panned out. Anyway, I'm baffled. If anyone has any ideas as to what is causing this problem, please advise.