89&90PATHY

Any one here written a complete step by step how to remove & reinstall the manual transmission? Seems my recent clutch job has gone bad. It appears the cluth fork is not returning after disengagement. Maybe a spring failer? Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks. :help:

Hey 89 trailboss... "I didnt really notice any power difference between 31" a/ts and 33" M/T's" You must be running 4.625 with your automatic and givin the slippage of the torque converter you wouldn't notice the effect of the final gearing change that larger tires create, but you will with the manual tranny. Especally with any thing larger than 32's & 4.375 gearing. I'm hoping the 4.625 R&P's out of the automatic I bought will give me the zip I'm looking for. LD50 didn't say if he had auto or manual. It makes a difference. My advice, don't do what I did (go buy bigger tires without considering the gearing change).

What gear ratio does your R50 have? My 89 manual is 4.375 and when I ran 32's there was a noticable drop in power. Generally just a lack luster level of performance. I juut switched to 31's and am happier with them than the 32's. I will be swapping in the 4.625 third members from an automatic to get back to best ratio performace with the 31's. Just my two cents.

Yep. Fur shur. Got it.

Never mind. I just got off the phone to my local stealer parts dept. $2500.00 just for the internals. Ouch. I guess I'l be going Cal Mini. Thanks

Thanks 88, I didn't know that it would come empty. For $850 I thought it might be the whole LSD. Of course I can get it for $75 as is. Would any one know how much it would cost to get the guts?

I found this brand new Nissan "Differential Case" Part #: 38421-71S26 NISSAN Retail (MSRP): $850.99 Application Data 04/1987 to 08/1987 Model 300ZX : VG30T RC(R200)(LSD) Condition: Some rust on exterior of case Is this the one I've heard is hard to find and expensive to buy? Anyone have the ability to cross reference part numbers or whatever to ID this puppy? See attached photos. :help:

I've got a 1990 Pathfinder with auto trany and LSD rear dif with HG46: H233B axle with 4.625:1 gearing (31 spline axles)runnig 31/10.5 from the factory. I want to know if I can swap these (90) front and read 3rd members into my 89 WD21? What I'm after is the 89 with the lower gearing to run the 32/11.5 tires I have on the 89 without tearing the pumkins apart, but I do want to add a locker in the HB233. The 89 has a open carrier the 90 a LSD. Is there an easy way to do this swap? What are your suggestions? Thanks

Just wondering what I should expect the total cost of replacing the 4.3 gears in the frount & rear difs. of my 89 pathy? I know the cost of the new 5.14 gears are $950.00 but what about the instale kit mentioned by A.C. ? Also any idea what a good gear shop would charge to set them up? :confused:

Hey Anyone know how much power I'd gain by swaping this in for my VG30I? I forget what stock HP is. If I bolt on all my 30I stuff would the extra HP increase be worth the truble?

I've got a guy here local with a V6 3.3L with 28K miles out of a 1999 Pathfinder. He will sell it cheap- about $500 to $600 I think. What will it take to work in my 89 or my 90 Pathfinder. Is it worth doing? Ge also has the tranny for 300-400 bucks. Should I buy it? Engine is COMPLETE, including, complete fuel injector system, intake, spark plugs, wires, distrbutor, water pump, etc. Condition of parts: the motor and transmission are in immaculate condition. No leaks anywhere. Both run perfectly and strong. Everything has been covered and taken care of.

I'm putting on the AC 3" body lift and got it lifted and bolted then went to drop the radiator with the AC 3" drop bracket but there's no instructions how to instale it. I get the fact that it goes under the radiator and the round plastic bushings on the bottum of the radiator go in the bushing size holes on the top of the bracket. But, the bracket ends up off setting the radiator about 1.5" closer to the fan. And what doues the bracket bolt to down there? Should I cut off the old body sheet metal bracket to reduce the off set? Anyone instale this before. :help:

Now that's what I'm talking about. My thoughts along the same reasoning. Any one know of a drive shaft quick disconnect system? As mentioned above by Pathfinder Phil: "DO NOT attempt to back up while flat towing!!! It won't work." I don't understand that. Anyonr care to enlighten me as to what the backing up problem is?

Oh ya, here's a picture of my new love.

I did it! Went out and bought myself a new 06 Nissan Titan SE as my daily driver and weekend tow vehical. Decided to keep it NISSAN. My question is: To tow my 89 Pathfinder with manual trany, can i tow it without a trailer? Is it safe to just put the transfer case in neutral and the trany in neutral or do I have to trailer it? I'm thinking of buying one of those A-frame tow bars to pull it behind the Titan. What do you guys think? :help:

Yes RedPath88. That seems to be the same problem with my Calmini arms. With the bushings being pliable you can force the spindle through the two bushings and install them that way, but that bind sure causes a racket. I'll go back out and reinstall them so I can move my vehicale out from the middle of the driveway. Then I'll email Calmini that picture and see if they we own up to the defective UCA's and send me some that work right.

I had a mechanic install the 3” Calmini lift kit for me last week. After picking it up and driving it for a few miles I noticed a squeaking/creaking coming from the front end. Checked with mechanic and he said he lubed the bushings as Calmini recommended. So today I pulled the UCA’s off myself to relube them. This is what I found. The upper link spindle doesn’t center and seems to be binding, thus causing the very loud squeaking noise. Does this seem wrong to anyone else? If so, what should I do about it? See the pictures.

Starting my 3" Calmini lift this weekend and I have a question regarding gaining additional downward traval by switching the UCA from side to side. I found this post by Martin Chang on the Nissan Offroad site. "It may be possible to adjust the bumpstop position to allow for a bit more downward travel. This can be done in two ways: replacing the factory bumpstop with a lower one, or by switching the UCA from one side to the other. I could replace the rubber bumpstop to a poly one to gain the clearance, but I like the progressive nature of the rubber one instead. Swapping the arms won't be a very hard operation and both sides are symmetrical. The latter works because the bumpstop extension (welded to the arm) is only on one side of the UCA. By switching arms, the bumpstop will contact the arm itself. Both arms and spindles are identical, so they can be switched quite easily. This will of course increase the suspension travel.If anybody has done this, I would love to know!" Does any one know if this will work? What would be the downside to this? :help:

Never mind. I finally did find the wheels: American Racing; Baja Series #172-5884 polished aluminum with center caps. 15"X8"; 5.25" backspace; 6X5.5" bolt circle. 84.00 each. Not bad since the dealer cost is $72.00 each. Got five of them & they should be here tomarrow. As for the tires I decided to go with the new Cooper Discoverer STT 32X11.5R15. Pretty much the same tire as the Goodyear MTR's but less money. Got them for $151.00 each plus M&B and sales tax, total for five+$891.32. I decided not to go bigger at this time to avoid the were N tear on the body & suspension/steering etc. Maybe after I wheel this for awhile I might want to get bigger tires. Anyway tis months disposalbe income's gone. This is what I've spent so far: 89 Pathy (5 speed SE, very clean well maintaned 189000 K) $2500.00, tires & wheels: $1344.00, calmini 3" SL $850.00 & Calmini HD steering kit $540.00 + mechanic to install it $300.00. Total=$5534.00 Next month I plan on adding ARB air locker in the rear and maybe an LSD in the front. What do you guys think of that combo to save the IFS?

I ordered a Calmini 3" SL today and I want to know what you guys think is an appropriate wheel & tire combo. Calmini tech. dept. states: that I should use 32X11.5-15 tires & 15X8" wheels with a 5" to 5.5" backspace, but I've search and these wheel rims are not readily available. I was thinking of getting 16" wheels because there are some of these American Racing AR 767 wheels with a 5" backspace. Then I could get some Goodyear MTR or Cooper Discovery STT 265/75R16 tires. Or does anyone know where I could get some 15X8 wheels with the 5" backside offset? My rig is a 1989 Pathy with manual & VG30I. We be my off road toy not my daily driver. Any comments would be welcome.