Astroc2002
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Posts posted by Astroc2002
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Thanx Again Guys, Really appreciate the info.
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Alright I'll have the Sunroof drain checked and the passenger side fender drain checked. According to courtesyparts.com there's a drain line for the A/C Evaporator so I might as well have that checked. Thanx you guys
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Well about a year and a half after I got my Pathfinder LE I came across that when ever it rains and I make a left hand turn water pours in through the ventilation fan on to the passenger side floor or on to my friends feet. I was asked by my friend to see if the smell of the fluid pouring into the cab smelled like coolant and I checked multiple times its not coolant. An auto body shop claimed they fixed this problem several years ago, but a year later it came back. Now the body shop told me that it was a build up of debris in around the drains in the cowl and ventilation system.
Now one of my friends informed me that he has experienced this issue on a Ford Focus and told me to be ready to come up with $2k or more to fix this problem, because the entire dash would have to be removed to gain access to the entire ventilation system and then from there who knows. So if anyone out there has experienced this problem or knows a solution please let me know right away. Because I might be taking to a different auto body shop to have them fix this problem and this time get a warranty on the fix this upcoming month.
The reason why I'm having this problem fixed is because I don't want the carpet to brew mold and I don't want the floor on the passenger side to rot away.
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So, I was able to take some time the last few days and cob this together. The mounting bracket is a piece of 4" aluminum angle and the extension is 6" piece of aluminum bar.
I mounted off the 2 M8x1.25 nuts welded to the frame that are usually used for a steering stabilizer. This was about the only place I could think of to put it where it was tucked out of the way but still right by the tranny fluid lines. The stock skid plate will still fit with plenty of room to spare and will shield all but the rear 1/4-1/2 of the filter. The picture shows no depth perception, but the lines are about 4" lower than the fan, so no issue there.
Quite frankly, the mount is pretty much a hack job that I made out of a few scraps and the plumbing is a little creative as I didn't have the time or desire to rebend the hard lines to the cooler again. This is a mock up for me to test for a while. If I decide to keep it (where it is also), I'll probably reuse the current mount (after I clean it up) but will replumb the lines, probably just using the rubber hose the whole way (the sidewall of this hose is .150" thick!).
Tomorrow I need to run a few wires and install the lower dash section and it will be complete. I'll update with more info then.
FYI: The fluid output line is on the passenger side of the tranny (in a LHD truck of course), maybe that will save someone some trouble in the future.
B
I heard from a mechanic friend of mine that when using an oil relocation kit it will cause the oil pump to work harder to move the oil through relocation lines and back to the engine... Is this true or something not to worry about?
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About a week ago my Automatic Transmission Temperature Light / E-Brake Light / Battery Light came on while I was driving and later would fade. Now its on all the time and I'm concerned it might be the ECU or a major sensor is tripping. If any body knows what this means please get back to me A.S.A.P.
Thanx
JB
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I don't remeber which thread was the one where people were talking about engine rpm on the highway but here is my 95XE auto with 4.6 gears doing what the speedo thinks is 70. My truck came with 235s so the speedo is off about 10 percent so its probably going closer to 80mph.
Not that high after all.
Funny, your pathfinder's speedo can register up to 160mph where my 94 pathfinder's gauge only register's up to 100mph. Nissan must have made a bit of a performance gain in 95 over the 94. Or they just adjusted the rev-limiter and top speed and added a higher MPH Speedo. Then again who knows, I'm just guessing. Plus for you to pull 110mph at only 3k RPM's now that's impressive, mine hits 3k RPM's at 70mph. I get the gut feeling that something is wrong with my pathfinder, either its the drivetrain or its envolving the engine or both it's hard for me to figure this out.
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So would it be safe to drop in a Mean Green 180 Amp Alternator to compensate the additional power needed for running accessories? Because right now when ever I turn on the headlights the RPM's drop from 1k to 800 when idling in park.
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The torsion bar anchor on my LCA stripped out a couple of weeks ago and I need to replace it. Has anyone else had this issue?
I've removed the torsion bar from the LCA anchor and this afternoon I'm going to try to remove the anchor from the LCA (three bolts n' nuts - not captive nuts either). I'm not sure that I'll be able to get new bolts through the LCA if one or more of them should break - there seems to be very little clearance between the LCA and the crossmember to which it is mounted. Do I need to remove the LCA in this case?
Also I noticed that the splines of the torsion bar were only engaed about 40% of the way into the anchor (about 3/8" of a possible 1" or so). Is this normal??? It sems to me that the splines should be almost entirely engaged with just a bit of play for expansion and shrinkage as well as enevitable fore and aft movement within the chasis. Should I plate the LCA behind the anchor to bring the anchor back another 1/4"-3/8" to allow more engagement?
Any input is appreciated on this one...I'm doing a SAS over this winter so the less time, effort and $$$ into the damn IFS, the better!
Now from what I was told mine stripped and left only a couple of threads on one of the torsion bars, so your not alone on this one.
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My guess, is that the sensor is located somewhere on the right side, and when making a right turn, all the fluid goes to the left, making the sensor think its empty
Hmm... That's still weird. oh well as long as my truck still stops and goes I guess it'll be alright until next week when I have the oil changed in it.
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Because that's how they can get away with using a 155hp engine and not have it be a snail. Plus we've got a 6k redline, look at most American trucks, their redline is 4.5 or 5k and most people never rev them above 3. And these motors seem to last way longer too. Hmm. And that 305 gmc Sierra is almost as gutless as a pathfinder is. Considering how heavy the truck is and the motor is only 192 horse or something like that.
That's true about it needing a low gear ratio to compensate the low horsepower.
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I plan getting a 180 Amp Mean Green Alternator when I upgrade to an electric fan and KC Hi-Lites. Need to know if I go with a 180 Amp Alternator it won't fry the wiring or electronics. Better ask than be stuck with a crispy Pathfinder.
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Lol....ok, here ya go
Brake light and ABS light were coming on when I accelerated around corners, or braked hard around corners....then would go off shortly after....check my brake fluid, and it was barely above minimum, so I got out my DOT 3 brake fluid, and filled it up to MAX......gonna test it out on my way to trumpet lessons and see if it worked!
Glad to here someone else is experience this with their ABS/E-Brake Light when going through corners because I thought I was going crazy. Strange thing is that it only happens when I'm going through right turns. Weird.
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I didnt see it, but I may have missed it, but did anyone ask what your timing is set at? If you just have the motor freshend up, your timing could be off. Also, check for any vacuum leaks. Both could throw your mileage off.
As far as I know the timing fine, but with all of the different things to check up on to solve this problem not for another two or three weeks. Because right now I've been informed to have the Idle Up Solenoid and Control Valve inspected when A/C or Defroster is on, and have the (AIV) Air Injection Valve checked and check for any Vacuum leaks. So there's alot to do before I can narrow it down as to what is causing the problem.
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Look on the fender tag(P side fender by the engine) if theres a 4.3 on it then it 4.30 and if there a 4.6 then its a 4.60
Well on the tag it said something similar to what you stated such as (HG46), so therefore I take it it's got a 4.60 gear ratio... Why such a low gear ratio as opposed to American vehicles with like a 3.73 or a 4.10 ratio? Besides the fact the lower the ratio the more power there is when using four-wheel drive.
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I found this company several years back and find there design to be very impressive to the point that I'm wondering if I should put it on my future mod to my Pathfinder. Check them out and tell me what you think.
www.mattracks.com
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Yes someone in San Jose, Ca broke 500k (no engine work other than maintenance) but we haven't heard from him for a while...
B
Now that's a impressively built motor to do that.
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Even though my Pathy has 250,000 + on it has a fresh engine and transmission, the axles and t-case are holding strong, but suspension needs to be worked on or upgraded. I laughed when I got, it had bald Honda Civic/Accord type tires. It originally belonged to my friends ex-wife who always when the cheap route when it came to this truck which is sad. But now it's in my hands and like I said she just needs a little work here and there that's it.
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sounds like an AIV problem, not going into idle,
Therefore running rich (air injection vavle) at idle.
Mine does this.
You know I think you might be right on the money, because the idle drops when I run the A/C or Defroster and another member of this forum informed me to have the Idle Up Solenoid and Control Valve checked out. But I'll ran it all by mechanic next week to have him check those two items and the AIV.
I don't know if this has anything to do with those three items or not but ever since this past winter every time my Pathy gets cold and I try to start up the next day the RPM's will start dropping from 1k to in between 400-500 RPM's and then it'll slowly recover it self to maintain normal idle when warming up. Thought I might throw that out there for any idea's. Sorry a little off topic.
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O2 sensor issue?
Mileage should be calculated per gallon, the only way to make sense...
I thought the Pathys came with 4.3x or 4.6x ratios...
B
The O2 Sensor is new.
I've calculated it and I'm getting like 14-15 in city and 16-17 on highway.
And as far as I know it's a 4.10 Ratio, I'm going to double check on it later and I'll get back to you.
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Nissan's odd color Black Pearl... It's a mix between Black(at Night) and really Dark Green(in Sunlight), it fools everyone.
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Ok so i jus got done installing my cup holders using this write-up: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/311306
So my fit and finish ain't that great, but atleast I tried.
Will post more pics when i wire them in.
Not bad and a great idea too.
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When giving advice I like to pull from personal experience and not something that I "heard" on another message board. Having said that, my last Pathfinder had Pacesetter headers, magnaflow cat and a Flowmaster Delta 50 muffler. I had a local exhaust shop build a new cat-back with the flowmaster and it only cost $100 for materials and labor. They even used flanges and utilized the stock exhaust mounting points. After I totalled the truck I was able to pull off everything behind the headers and bolt it up to another Pathfinder like it was stock. The setup sounded great with the headers. I have the Doug Thorleys on a 1987 V6 D21. They are nice headers, but not worth the premium price IMO. I also have Pacesetters on my 4cyl 1997 D21 pickup and they provide a significant performance increase. It seems that many Thorley owners like to bash PS for no good reason. I have never seen or heard about PS headers failing on a nissan. Properly installed headers should never see "extreme" pressures. If you want to complain or worry about exhaust leaks then you shouldn't be driving a WD21.
As for quality, the welds on the Pacesetter headers are no better or worse than the Thorleys. I have no idea where Astroc2002 got the spot weld thing and I am an accomplished welder. The only difference between the two is that chrome plating is available on the Thorleys which will qiuckly change colors once they get hot. I personally prefer ceramic coating, but if you get painted headers you will want to have them stripped and repainted with high temp paint. The paint on the Pacesetters will burn off leaving bare metal exposed.
The bottom line is this:
Go for what you can afford.
Get ALL of your studs replaced when you have the broken ones extracted.
Save yourself some grief and have someone else install the headers. Neither Thorley or PS were direct bolt-on in my experience.
Get a high-flow cat. It should be less than $100
Have your exahust shop use flanges and factory mounts for future maintenance or removal.
I like the Flowmaster sound so I use them. 40s are pretty aggressive and 50s are more mellow in the cab. I had a glass pack and I hated it.
2.25" tubing to the muffler and 2.5" tailpipe worked the best for me. It kept the low end, but still got the big tube growl.
Bash all you want, your entitled to your opinion. After all it is my right to an opinion as it is yours too. So I leave it up you guys. By the if your such the welder, why didn't you install your system. You would've saved yourself money in DIY. But hey what do I know... I'm just some guy who doesn't deserve a WD21. Just for mentioning that I am reporting you, so long.
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I found some headers at 4x4parts.com but until i read this thread i hadn't given much thought to what muffler to use.
I was thinking of atempting a daul muffler Setup myself.
I don't know if it's possible without at lift or if its ever been done before..?
Personally when my truck is warmed up and is no-longer cold (like shown in the video) it has a mellow idling growl when parked to the point it almost sounds like a 350 V8. I plan on putting up another video of it warmed up at idle, in gear, and reving it at higher RPM's.
But I'd be cautious when purchasing Header's, because it seems like the only company your getting your money's worth out of performance and quality design Doug Thorley when it comes to WD21 Pathfinders and D21 Hardbodies. Primarily due to the fact I've heard on other forums that Pacesetter Headers are prone to rusting or the welds around the exhaust tubing at either upper or lower flange has been prone to fail and break under extreme pressures. Take my advice as a former student in Welding Technology, you'll get the best performance and longer life out of Doug Thorley Headers as opposed to Pacesetter Headers, the welding they use is known as spot welding (temporary hold welds) that were leaving large gaps between the other welds on the upper and lower flange that can result in a potential break of the headers tubing creating an exhaust leak.
Now I've seen Pacesetter's Headers in person and frankly if you want something that is going to be cheap and last a short life expectancy then go for it, but if you want long lasting performance technology do what I did and get a pair of Doug Thorley Headers. Now from what my instructor told me that if the welds on a vehicle are poorly made they can pose a serious hazard, especially headers, they can leak out a massive amount exhaust fumes into the engine bay and if there's fumes from gasoline in the engine bay it will ignite due to the exhaust leak and cause an engine fire. Please note that I am not bashing against Pacesetter in any way, I'm being honest from what I've seen with my very own eye's, and I prefer that people out there off-road or drive regularly on road safely and not suffer in dumping a massive amount of money in damages.
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I noticed only a little difference when I removed my rear bar. I drive a lot and am still comfortable with cornering and sudden lane changes (spurred, buy others doing the same RIGHT IN FRONT OF ME
) My front is still attached buy does not fully do it's normal job because the bushings at the frame mounts or gone.One day the occasional "clank" will finally get irritating enough that I will just remove the bar, if not replace the bushings.
But your results may vary
Energy Suspension makes bushing's for the front sway bar. Just wanted to throw that out there.
Which Perfomance Ecu To Go With?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Been wondering which company I should go with as far as a Performance ECU Upgrade, I was told that some of Jim Wolf Technology's ECU Upgrade may not state it's smog legal in California, but no one has ever complained about their ECU's not passing smog in California. Now Jet Performance does have both an ECU Upgrade (C.A.R.B. Legal) and a Module called the V-Force Plus (Legality Unknown at the moment, sent message inquiring legality and if device will work with there ECU Upgrades).
Now I read an article in Nissan Performance Mag. that some guy in southern California with an older Pathfinder than mine with almost the same performance upgrades such as: 264" Nismo Cams / Doug Thorley Ceramic Coated Headers / Nismo Cat-Back Exhaust / Jim Wolf Tech. ECU and saw MPG's in the high teens to low twenties in city and low to mid twenties on highway.
Now I'm not running performance cams in my 94 Pathfinder LE 4x4 V6 Auto., but I am running Nology Hotwires Spark Plug Wires / Doug Thorley Ceramic Coated Headers / Flowmaster Two-Chamber (40 Series) Cat-Back Exhaust and a Jim Wolf Technology Pop-Charger Cold Air Intake. So if anyone in California with a Jim Wolf Technology ECU Upgrade or a Jet Chip in a Pathfinder or Pick-Up powered by a VG30E and Automatic Transmission, please help out by giving me some advice or pointers on which company to go with.
P.S. Yes, I am currently smogging my Pathfinder in California under C.A.R.B. Regulations even though it states that it meets U.S. Emissions and not California. I traced the vehicle being first sold in Texas.
