Astroc2002
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Posts posted by Astroc2002
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I believe a high hydro carbon count == failed catalytic converter, or a bad o2 sensor.
Alright well I know that the air filter is clean, but I'll check the O2 sensor and the catalytic converter. Thanx guys.
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Alright, ever since the start of May 2010 I've been trying to sell my 94 Pathfinder LE V6 4x4 with mods. Haven't been able to due to it failing a California emissions test due a high count of Hydro-Carbon emissions. Anyone got any ideas of what it could be... besides the mods done to the engine?
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holy hijack
there is a thread on here somewhere that has a pictorial on doing it, i am surprised the search Nazis havent pointed you from your errant ways yetLOL.
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Thank God I'm not the one experiencing this problem. I own a 94 LE 4x4, and like some of you mine pours water on to the passenger side floor. Now except mine builds all of the water up in the heater box and when I make a left hand turn it dumps in through the fan on to the passenger side floor. So I can't say its a bracket like what ahardb0dy shown us. At first I thought it was the heater core leaking when it rains, so I had a pressure test done and thankfully it didn't leak. But the problem still persists and I'm kinda running out of options on what to do to solve this problem. But I will however save the picture for the future to point out to a body shop to see if water is pouring in through there. I'm just surprised that no one has notified the D.O.T. to file this as a possible safety recall, because the floor on the pass. side would rot out after years of water pouring on to it and staying there, which in result could cause a brutal injury or death to whoever is sitting in the passenger seat.
Enough of my ranting. Yes I too checked the drains for the cowl and the sunroof and they're working. Hey ahardb0dy, thanks for adding that picture man. That's really going to help in the long run. :coffee!:
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Yes, the check engine light been on for a while now. forgot to mention.
Thanks for your replies. Ill check the 02 sensor first and probably replace it. If it doesn't work, i'll think about the transmition. I thought it could be the transmition also. but I just hope it is someting else
Yeah I hope so too man, because transmission work isn't cheap. But if it turns out to be the transmission you and everyone else might look into this company, they make performance for Nissan's. http://www.importperformancetrans.com/
Good luck man. :coffee!:
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Hi, first, sorry for my english, my primary spoken language is french.I'ill try my best to explain my problem
My 1994 automatic Pathfinder is losing power at random time. When I start it, everything is ok. but when the engine start to normaly heat, the pathfinder lose power. Then I push the pedal gaz to maximum, 2 or 3 sec later the rpm goes high but the speed is ridiculus. sometimes like 30 miles a hour at 6000 rpm... Sometimes thought, I can drive 1 hour straight without any problemes. but then I stop the truck 5 mins, and when I start it back and begin to drive, the probleme is here. Or I drive 5 min, stop 5 min, then start it back and the probleme is also here.
I hope I made myself clear.
Can it be the plugs ? Gaz filter ? also im kind of a begginer with mechanic, I am learning.
Thank you
Fred
Well I'll tell you what it sounds like, if your Pathfinder is equiped with an Automatic Transmission like mine. You might have to take it to a transmission specialist, because it sounds like either you have a gear that's gone bad or the torque converter may need to be replaced. I should know, because I've experienced the same problem in mine... twice.
And it could also sound like that computer is adjusting the fuel mixture, hints the possibility to you engine dropping RPM's much like mine. Now has your check engine light been on? Because I've experienced a similar problem on my Pathfinder.
Not sure, because I'm not a certified mechanic and I'm not there to experience this problem your having, but I can tell you what I have experienced on my Pathfinder sounds almost the same thing your experiencing. So if there's any mechanics on here that can answer his questions better than me, feel free.
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Does such a thing exist?
if so then what and where
thanks
Yeah, eBay offers intake tubes and filters from a unknown company and a company called Jim Wolf Technology offers air filters with necessary hardware to bolt right up to the mass air flow sensor. Now granted the intakes on eBay include an aluminum tube to replace the stock intake tube, however Jim Wolf Technology's intakes hold an Executive Order C.A.R.B. emissions compliant number in the state of California. But from what I've read the ones offered on eBay doesn't mention anything about being smog legal. But should you decide to purchase the intake on eBay I suggest you to message the seller and request to send you the Executive Order number that complies to C.A.R.B.
But if your interested in Jim Wolf Technology go to: www.jimwolftechnology.com or visit 4x4parts.com and look under performance parts.
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What or who makes the hoohaa steering box system? Because I tried to do a search on Google on hoohaa steering and just got a bunch of forum listings.
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OK, for a little while I was driving a 1990 Ford F150 2x4 with rack and pinion steering. I like the rack and pinions response when turning the wheel, so my question is can the rack and pinion from an R50 QX4 or Pathfinder work on a WD21 Pathfinder. Granted its not something I'm going to do right away, I just wanted see what options there are available and write them down you know.
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*sigh*
Did the Admins disable the search function again??
Yes, what you read is true. The 3 things to do is install a hard body shifter (different shape and length), heat and bend your existing shifter or notch the floor to make some clearance.
B
OK, I just wanted to clear that piece up before I do get the 3" Calamini SL and a 3" BL on my Pathfinder. Thanks.
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I want to do a 3" body lift to my Pathfinder, but I heard on another forum that when doing a 3" body lift the four-wheel drive shifter can't shift into four low, because the shifter ends up hitting the center console when trying to shift between neutral and four low because the shifter is shorter when doing a 3" body lift. Has anyone here experienced this problem with their Pathfinder? Because I'd like to know if this a true problem.
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Just to add visuals to what has been said so far...
This engine has the z31 manifolds and crossover pipe. The intake is not a stock z31.
This has a stock z31 intake and the crossover pipe. You can see the amount of overhang the intake also has.
For anyone thinking of putting in a VQ30det, it has the same crossover pipe set-up.
The only realistic way to do this is use custom exhaust manifolding or a remote set-up. Here is a twin turbo SOHC pathfinder. I made links so I wouldn't kill anyone on dialup.
As for the supercharger it will fit with the appropriate lower intake. Getting the belt and pulleys arranged is another beast to tackle entirely.
VG33ER Supercharger Manifold Layout
Hey, who did the Turbo job on this Pathfinder, because I'm tempted to do a twin Turbo job to my Pathfinder.
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Well I found out when I partially opened up the heater core box there was a ton of sticks and leaves built up inside the heater core at the base and around it. Plus the bottom of the heater core was damp and the bottom of the box had standing fluid around it. Couldn't tell if it was coolant or rain water, but to be on the safe side my mechanic is going to take a look at it and do a pressure test to see if it is leaking. But if turns out that a lot of the fluid is coming from the A/C box, then I'll take it to an Air Conditioner shop and have them check it out. But again thanx guys.
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I'm pretty sure the stock injectors will be fine for a mild cam. larger injectors are typically used for Blown motors were the ammount of air forced in is beyond the stock ability to maintain AFR.
you might also consider the 256-H grind from Schneider. It may be very similar to the Nismo #1 cam but @ about 1/2 the cost I think it will produce the closest to what we are looking for. If Delta falls thru I may go with the 256-H or see if Schneider will do my custom spec....
Yeah I'll give it some thought on going with Schneider 256-H cams, but if by any chance if Schneider wouldn't be able to do your custom cams you might talk to a company called Clay Smith Cams. They custom make cams for almost all vehicles and I'm pretty sure they'll do custom cams for Nissan power plants. Also RC Fuel Injection had told me that the only time I would need bigger injectors is if I'm running aftermarket cams. My brother is running RC fuel injectors in his Evolution 8 while running 272 HKS cams and runs incredible, of course they're 500 lbs. injectors to compensate for the stock Turbo and HKS cams. But I'll double check with RC and see if mild cams need bigger fuel injectors.
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260/260 .420 is mild depending on how they degree your events It should be a decen cam with power near @ 2k rpm.
similar can also be expected of the 256/256 .425 again dependig on degreeing
The 264/264 .392 should produce a decent Idle because of its low lift. tho this cam tagets good Idle but kicks in high (3-3.5k rpm iirc) it will actually be very decent as far a longevity becase the short lift and long duration give it lobes that are not as sharp so they wear slower.
All the cams you listed should last fine in your engine, if it were me I would go with one of the first 2 or you can wait and see how my custom grind turns out and buy a set of those thru me.
I'll actually wait and see how your custom cams turn out and then decide to get a set for my power plant. After I get a set of cams I need to figure out which ECU Upgrade to go with, I'm deciding between Jim Wolf Technology or Jet Performance for the ECU Upgrade. I plan on going with RC Fuel Injectors to compensate for the cams.
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I know I got the same deal, it will trickle slightly if I hold it for a while, but I can EASILY hear it pumping....I just assumed it clogged after however many years of no use..
Holla if you fix it
I have the very same problem too. I plan on having the nozzle replaced this year and see if that would solve the problem.
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I wouldn't say that at all. the truths I listed are not guaranteed to happen. I think a Mild cam would last just fine in your engine. A maintained VG is good for a half million miles and when well cared for I bet the same would appy if it had a mild cam.
What would be considered a mild set of cans? Because I might consider getting my stock cams reground to 260/260 Duration / .420/.420 Lift Z31 Stage 1 kit from thezstore.com or a pair of Nismo .256/.256 Duration / .425/.425 Lift or Nismo 264/264 Duration / .392/.392 Lift from nismoparts.com. Which cams should I go with or what other types cams would you recommend?
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What does this link mean about "euro" headlights? clear/crystal headlights?
Anzousa.com offers euro clear Headlamps for the Nissan Hardbodie (pickup) which can also fit on some Pathfinders.
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there are allot of factors involved there but gernarally with a mild cam the answer is no. Here are some truths;
Cams with sharper lobe peaks (high lift and low durataion) will wear down quicker because there is less surface area in contact with the lifter @ peak lift which also is the point of highest load.
A reground cam may wear out a hydraulic lifter faster becase lift is acheived by grinding off the base of the cam lobe. the lifter has to fill up with more oil and stand taller sometimes pushing it to the limit of its working range. Lifters can be shimmed for the ammount was ground off the base. Also frequent oil changes and not reving high untill the engine is warm can reduce this.
A a differant cam cycles a sping @ a differant frequency then it was cycled for its last how ever many miles. For most sprins this is not a problem but if a taller cam pushes the spring to near its binding point it can accerate spring fatigue.
Running uprated springs with a cam increases RPM potential but also increases valve seat preassure. this can wear out the valve and the valve seat faster depending on how much higer the spring rate is. I don't think JWT springs will do this. (61lbs vs 54 stock)
None of the above conditions are guarnateed to happen and every case is differant with many variables.
So my safest bet is to stick with the stock cams considering I just had the engine rebuilt.
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I hear you on the ARB, I'm not sure if I would have bought a new one. I got lucky and found a used one locally.
How about some photos of your beloved rear bumper JB??
B
Well currently I have the stock OE bumpers which are banged to hell. Will be replacing them this year.
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Just curious, I've got a friend who told if I go with larger cams than the stock ones I'll knock off 50k off the engines life. Now could this be possible or not?
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ok so im gonna wealk over to walmart since its down the road wish me good luck
Hey man, did you go to the Nissan Dealership in Santa Cruz, because that very same guy gave me a whole run around about how parts for my Pathfinder have to be custom ordered and would cost more. So I quit doing business with them for charging me $305 for not fixing my rear hatch and driverside door sensors for the dome lights(basically make the dome lights turn on and off when the doors are open and closed) and did a bunch of other crap that I didn't even request. But if you want any type of stock OEM parts from Nissan go to www.courtesyparts.com, they have everything that you would be looking for at a decent price. I heard somewhere that Courtesy Nissan has gotten awards in best customer satisfaction. Well check them out man.
L8rZ
JB
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So awhile back I asked a guy on another forum on where he got his bumpers at, he told me to check out Kennesaw Mountain Accessories, so I did and I was very impressed to the point of getting both Front/Rear replaced with custom armored bumpers from this company. But here are the links to their website. One is the main web page and the other shows you what bumper designs they make for Nissan. Enjoy!
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Honestly, without a cam I think your stock ECU should be able to adapt to your existing changes just fine. Make sure your MAF is clean and your o2 sensor is new and then re-set your ecu by leaving the battery unpluged for about 4 hours. Before plugging it back in turn the key and hit the bakes a few times as this ensures the drain/ reset process is complete.
once re-connected you ecu will re-learn how to manage you engine based on the readings your existing mods are giving the sensors.
If you are have a "cali model" rig I have heard you can try running a federal ecu for a little more kick and just go back to the cali ecu if it fails emissions. Just be sure you let the ecu have a several driving hours to get itself fully efficent before you smog test.
Well the O2 Sensor was replaced with a new one when I got the headers, but I'll definitely check MAF to see if it's been damaged or if there's any grime deposits on it while in the process I'll check the Throttle Body Flap. Now my question is what to clean the MAF with if there is deposits on it, I already know how to clean the Throttle Body. My friend told my to use brake cleaner on the butterfly flap of the Throttle Body to clear out the grime. However I don't know what to use to clean the Mass Airflow Sensor. But thanx for the tip on how to reset the ECU and resetting the brakes. I'll give it try today to see if it will solve some of the problems its experiencing.
supercharger?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
You mean the Eaton M90 Supercharger will bolt right up to the lower manifold which originally mates to the VG33ER heads, but can also bolt to the VG30E heads. If this is true, then I'm seriously having second thoughts about selling my apathy then. Let me know if the bolt patterns are the same on the M90 as the M62. Let me know.
Thanx
JB