01Pathy3.5LE

I am getting a code about the o2 sensor being bad. Question, if I replace the o2 sensor myself, do I need to take the truck to the dealer to reprogram cpu? I wasn't sure if there was anything I need to do to make sure it runs correctly after the fix. Thanks!

Thats a great idea. Anyone else have any luck doing this same type of install?

Hey Everyone. Haven't posted in a while so I thought I would. My Pathy is at 115k and I have a CEL on. Looks like a bad o2 sensor. Question is, Should I replace all o2 sensors due to age of vehicle and mileage, or just what the codes read as the bad ones. I am going to be replacing plugs and wires as well, just curious on your thoughts about the o2 sensors. Thanks!

One year and counting on this fix!!! Thanks 88!

Just an update. 6 weeks after the change (and some friggin' cold weather too) the Maxima MAF is working in the Pathy like a champ. Big thanks from my wallet and my truck go out to you guys!!!

Got it!

Just hit 104k on my 01 LE. What maint. would you suggest doing? Just switched the MAF (with the maxima maf 88 told us about. :bow: Worked great!!!) and now i'm looking to keep her going as long as possible. Fluid flushes? Plugs and wires? Belts and pulleys? I need to do this in stages due to a new job and lack of funds. I'm looking for a list of "I would definately do this first. Then I would do this." I appreciate the help!

I just did this fix today. Truck started right up and no problems so far. Thanks 88! I'll let you know how things are going in a few days.

Anyone know if you would need to reprogram the ecm once this switch is made, or is it plug and play?

88, your timing is impecable!! I believe you just saved me about $300.00. Thank You!!! :bow:

Cleaned it with electronic contact cleaner. Cleaned the air box and it's still spitting and kicking at 2500 rpm. I guess it's time to replace. :sniff:

With the 2001 being a timing chain (right?), is it still the magic 100k mile marker for a timing chain change, or are they good for a longer amount of time?

Thanks everyone for the help. I guess I know what I'm doing tonight. I'll let you know how it goes.

How do I reset the ECM once I clean it/replace it? Also, I'm concerned about the mesh screen inside the air box. Do I need to be aware of anything? Can I clean it with the contact cleaner also?

88, I checked the harness, it was tight. Just for good measure, I removed it again and re-applied it. No luck. Great suggestion though.

OK. Reading some other forums :secret: (sorry, I didn't mean to cheat), they recommend cleaning the MAFS with electrical/contact cleaner or brake cleaner. Any thoughts on this? Brake cleaner too harsh? Also recommended taking the air filter box off and cleaning it out to get out the dust and debris. Can I clean that mesh screen inside the box, or will I damage it? It looks pretty gritty.

Just took my first ride in the truck since cleaning the MAF sensor. At about 2500 RPM's it shakes like a hooker with a $50 in her hand. :furious: RPM's will NOT go above 3000. Question is, does it take time for the computer to adjust to it being clean, or is it shot? Idles fine, starts fine. I did not break anything, promise. Swiped the sensor a few times with the swab and alcohol, waited for it to dry before the re-install and did not start it for about 3 hours. Another question, if the MAFS is shot, what relevance is the mesh screen inside the air cleaner box? That was brought up in an earlier post. Should I try to clean that with the swab and alcohol? Does that need replaced if I replace the MAFS? Do they work independently? I'm very new at this...and broke. Looking to get it running right. Any thoughts?

Just cleaned the MAF sensor. Looking at the post fro 88 on cleaning a MAF, mine looked nothing like it. I pulled the only thing that even apeared to look like a MAF, but when it was pulled, it had a flat metal plate, not a wire. I tried (ever so gently) to see if it broke down any more, thinking this was the housing and the filament was inside, but no luck. I just cleaned the metal plate (by plate I mean a small piece that looked like stainless steel about half the size of my pinky nail) Is this the new maf sensor? It was right next to the filter box in-line between the filter box and engine. Any thoughts?

No K&N or any other oiled filters, just the plain paper ones. The truck seems to drive just fine. No bucking or spurts, idle is smooth. Only symptoms is the slight gas smell and a little bit of carbon on the tail pipe. I think I am going to try to clean the MAF sensor, being very carefull along the way. Any other thoughts out there in Pathy land? I appreciate the feedback everyone. Tis the season to avoid dropping a lot of cash fixing your Pathy!

Just want to Autozone and had some codes read on my Pathy. Here's what I got. 2 different codes. OBDII (Alpha) P Code P0171 Fuel system for bank 1 was too lean. OBDII (Aplha) P Code P0174 Fuel System for bank 2 was too lean. Any thoughts on where to start with these codes and how to remidy the problem? I can smell fuel slightly when the truck is running back by the tail pipe. Also, a very slight carbon deposit is starting to build up on the inside top part of the tail pipe (and I do mean slight.) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Sweet truck!

I'm going to clean the MAF tomorrow. The dealer reset the ses light. If the problem still exists, how long before the ses light would trip again (approx)

Nothing personal, just venting. They said mine was already re-programed. My code ended in a 3, not sure of the total code, I have it at home. I am "working" now. :type: But he said the 3 indicated is was re-programed in the past. I did buy it used. If I pull the cats, what would a bad one look like on the inside? Also, since I do not have emission requirements in my state, can I go cat-less? (sounds sexy anyway) would this be problematic? I just want this thing to last. I have 2.5 years of payments left!

Dealers!!!!! :furious: :furious: :furious: After going to the dealer, they charged me 91 bucks for a diagnosis I already knew, and they are saying the cats are bad. To the tune of $1,879.00 they can make my troubles go away. Question, where would you guys start to look for trouble. I am going to change plugs and wires...any suggestions or go with NGK's? other than that, do you think timing could be throwing codes like this? A guy at autozone said the cats need to reach 1500 degrees before they operate efficiently. He said it could be something as simple as a thermostat. I am no wrench by any means and any additional advise would be appreciated. Also, if it comes down to the cats actually being bad, any sweet suggestions on aftermarket exhaust upgrades?

I noticed in the codes at the top of the post, the bottom code says DTC Pending. What does the pending mean? Does this mean it is a potential problem? Did the guy pull the reader off before it was finished testing, giving a pending reading? Please advise. Sorry, new at this stuff and trying not to get screwed by the dealer! -study-