OzMattie

Tomorrow is the day that never comes I moved the seat to where I would sit if it was left hand drive.

The things with cams is you need to know what the specs are, Also you need to adjust the timing using the 0.050" rule. This is the most important thing when installing new cams. All machines have some backlash in them so it is very important to check the cam timing when you install them and you may need to use new multi key cam pulleys. If you use the standard pulleys the timing may be out which can cause the cam to fall over not giving the desired performance. When buying cams you need to look at the power curves. Lumpy cams generally will up the horse power further up the rev range. My personal opinion would to buy cams that have an improved torque curve rather than horsepower for an off road vehicle. Remember that when you replace the cams you MUST replace your lifters and run them in. In the engines that I have built for my race and road cars I have always started the engine and straight away reved the engine to 3000rpm and held it there for 15-20 minutes. Then let the engine return to idle for 5 minutes. Then I switch the car off and let it cool down a little then change the oil. I hope this helps a little. OzMattie

Hi, I would go for a 2 inch lift, Warn Hubs, and put some decent tires on it like BF Goodrich AT's or MT's. Poke around in these forums and you will be sure to find all the info you need.

It is visable from my drivers side but it is something that I will have to get used to. No major problem. I sat on the passengers side (your drivers side) and it is mostly hidden behind the pillar I will take a pic tomorrow and post it for you guys.

And again

And the finished product

It was getting dark and too cold out so I havent got any pics of the finished product yet. I am happy with it? Well honestly not 100%. The TJM Airtec seems to fit alot better than the Safari. But we didnt realise this until we had already cut the holes So in my opinion I would go the airtec if I had the chance to do it again. The big test will be next weekend on our trip to the Alpine region.

Duct at the snorkel. as you can see there isnt alot of room.

Ducting to the airbox.

The spacer on the airbox. I used Loctite Black Max(sensor safe silicone) to seal and join the space to the bottom of the airbox.

I had to remove most of the bolts from the guard to get better access. I decided not to use the rubber that came with the snorkel due to how much it would have had to crush to fit behind the guard. I used some brake duct that we had left over from the race car. I removed the lower air box (behind the bumber) and ran the duct straight to the airbox. I had to make a spacer out of hard plastic pipe that came with the snorkel.

Third pic is The hole that was cut for the snorkel ducting to come through. It says 86mm but we had to open it up to nearly 95mm. the inner guard is extremely close to the outer.

First pic using template that came with snorkel although afterwards we found that we had to move the template pivoting from the centre hole so that the lower hole closest to the door was approximately 15mm higher. Second pic is the pilot holes.

Hey guys heres some of the installation pics from my snorkel.

Been taking pics the whole way through. The reason it has taken so long is that we have had to change our approach on which way we plumb it in and running around trying to find the right duct. I will all pics when I finish and show and explain the traps that I have come across.

Hi guys. So far 6 hours and still havent finished fitting it :furious: . I think the airtec may have been a slightly better option but I'll stick with the Safari. the template has to be placed on an angle so the bottom back hole is 15mm higher than normal, this gave us just enough angle to fit it without any gaps. I am going to keep the lower air box in place and conect the ducting straight into it. Of course I will be checking the box for any leaks by filling it with water, and resealing if necessary. I will post pictures when the job is done (Tomorrow to dark and cold out).

I can think of a better way to waste a couple of hours on my car like fitting my snorkel today!!!! Woohooo. And as for Pics I will be worse than a japanese tourist. ( no Insult meant to anyone). Enjoy venge:P

Gday guys and Pezz. My Snorkel arrived today and will be fitting it this weekend. I will post pics of the job being done. I went for a Safari Snorkel Part Number ss725 (which is of a Navara or Frontier as you guys call them.) The way I am going to tackle this job is instead of trying to connect the snorkel to the original intake on the bottom of the airbox, I will cut a hole through the inner guard straight into the airbox & plug the original hole. Stay tuned for more pictures.

That is approx $115us for the ball joint and $97us for the rod end

I got told by nissan that lower ball joints are $150 each no one else sells them here and tie rod ends are $126 each. Atleast Nissan are consitant with something, Ripping us all off!!!

they are made specifically for the r50.

They connect straight to the cats, i only have one cat on each side.

Hi venge. Sorry not custom they are made by Hurricane headers( I think they may be an Aussie company) But wouldnt hurt to look in the states anyhow. Just a warning to all of us that love playing in the muddy bogholes and deeper water. The exhaust guy has never seen a pathy crack both cast manifolds the way that mine had, he is almost certain that this was caused by water. ie River crossing or mudholes

They cost me $750au ($575us) fitted. took the exhaust guy about 6 hours to do.

Hey guys and Pezzy As you may already know i had cracked my factory cast exhaust manifold. I knew that i had cracked 1 side and wasnt sure about the other. Turns out that both sides had 2 cracks in between the ports. I had some fabricated headers fitted today . I have only driven 20 miles since they were fitted and my first impressions are WOW. I now have alot moremid range power and the motor feels like there is noticeably more torque. I will put some pics up of the cracked manifolds up soon but i have a pic of the headers fitted.