KovemaN
-
Posts
740 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by KovemaN
-
-
Using a VG30 with the longer crank snout is fine. I bought a reman 300zx engine and it had the long snout. Nissan makes a spacer for the pulley/damper so it will seat correctly. You will also need a new crank bolt and washer.
Spacer: 12308-V5321
Bolt: 12309-16V00
Washer: 12308-77A00
-
There is a big round rubber boot where the engine harness enters the cab. It is on the passenger side of the firewall. When I run wires back I cut a slit in that boot and push the wire through to the cab. It will come out behind the dash by the passenger side foot well. Since it's a small wire you might want to attatch it to a piece of firm wire (coat hanger) and use that to guide it through. I can show you when you come by tomorrow.
-
N4W would probably be a good place for that question.
-
Where are you trying to place the sender? I'm pretty sure that the sender provided with the kit is 1/8" NPT. Most, if not all threads on a Pathfinder are metric.
-
I added my vote for a MINIMUM of $20. Re-uniting a man with his truck is a very noble cause. After losing nearly $50k because of my sister's divorce I have an idea of how bad divorce can be. Never marry in a community property state. At least I still have my trucks, all I need is a new driveway and garage.
-
Hard shifting, dumping the clutch and engine braking. I think it may have been the pilot bushing wearing out that really brought on the failure. It was severely trashed. The springs in the friction plate appeared to have been rubbing on something before it failed. I don't recall if it was the flywheel bolts or the pressure plate. I think it happened because the whole assembly was not staying centered with the worn out pilot bushing. It was a freak incident in terms of Nissan quality. BTW, it was the original Nissan clutch and it had 120k miles on it.
-
What is the absolute worst that could happen if he were to put some JB Weld in the hole and then replace the stud? The seal could eventually fail and then a small amount of coolant would leak out gradually. That would be the easiest and cheapest option. A welder is obviously the best solution, but cost could be prohibitive. So it seems there are three options:
Cheap = Seal the hole and put the new stud in with fingers crossed.
Moderate = Hire a welder
Expensive = Replace the head
-
I have seen a Nissan clutch fail. One of the springs in the friction plate broke and lodged in the fingers of the pressure plate. The clutch wouldn't disengage. That was a first for me, but was probably caused by abuse. I would still go with the Nissan OE unit though. I believe most of the Nissan clutches that I have seen were Exedy branded. 1 failure out of 11 Nissan clutches isn't bad.
-
I had my flywheel machined at NAPA for something like $30. While you have the flywheel off you should probably replace the rear main seal as well. I installed the Centerforce stage 2 clutch and popped my slave cylinder within two weeks. This was probably due to the stronger pressure plate. I have since replaced the slave and I am planning to change the rubber clutch line over to braided stainless for reliability. I got my Centerforce clutch set on Ebay for $130. Over OEM, the Centerforce is definitely not worth the premium price that Rugged Rocks is asking. I don't know why the price is so high on RR. $500 difference? WTF?
-
They did for me. On my other Pathfinder they mounted 33x12.5" BFGs on 15x8 black steelies with a 4" offset. That was a pretty nice combo. That truck had BL and SL and it still needed trimming in the front though. A sawzall will make quick work of the front corner of the front fender.
-
My old Pathy had the stock chrome wheels with 32" BFG A/Ts. That's the way I bought her and I never bothered to buy new rims. I never had a problem with the bead or tread wear. I can't believe that Wal-Mart mounted them for the PO in the first place.
-
32s will definitely fit on the stock chrome 15x6 rims. Most won't recommend it, but when you air down a narrow rim will hold the bead better. I only had to trim a little off of the front corner of the front fender flare. The only rubbing was at full lock on the side of the PS box. Definitely not a big deal especially since you can adjust the stops to prevent that rubbing. If you are going to lift I would suggest picking up the 15x8 steelies from Summit. They have good prices and shipping is cheap too. If you have a Discount Tire shop near you they will match online prices.
-
I have a Kershaw Ken Onion clipped to my pocket right now (always for that matter). I've owned knives from Gerber, CRKW, Old Timer, Schrade and Boker and the Kershaw is my favorite by far. For a semi-assisted folder the Onion is the best I've ever carried. My second favorite would have to be the Gerber Gator. My Boker ceramic folder broke. When camping I carry the Onion and a Gerber Multi-Tool.
-
Vortex is a gimmick. If you want to chip, you can get an idea of what it takes HERE. Adding headers and freeing up the exhaust is the most common route around here. The only other reasonable option is to change your gearing. At least you will get the illusion of more power.
More chipping info:
-
I find the search function on this board to be quite lacking. You would probably be better off using google and adding "site:npora.ipbhost.com" to your search string. I've used the search here looking for specific threads and get no results even though I know exactly what I am looking for. Yes I have learned the intricacies of this board's search and it still omits valid search results.
As for the switch, the only permanent fix is to unplug the factory switch and replace it with a quality pin switch on the hatch.
-
The FSM calls for a bead of sealant. I used black RTV with no gasket on the last two that I did with no leaks. It seemed to work better than the gray.
-
The 180* thermostat sits at 1/2 for me with the AC on.
-
How about a feedback category in the classifieds section? I have had some good luck swapping parts here and the good guys should be recognized. It would reward those that honor their word and shame those that don't. It's not a perfect solution, but it's a start.
-
I really need to get out soon. I wouldn't mind playing around Table Mesa. It is really f-ing hot though. 115* likely by the weekend, but rain next week. There could be some sloppy stuff soon with the monsoon. My Pathy is pretty stock too so I'm not looking for anything hard core. I'm near I-17 and 101.
-
There really isn't much to it unless your cups are trashed. Release the tension on the t-bars and jack up the suspension so the compression rod is level. You can probably leave the t-bars cranked, but it's easier with no tension. Unbolt the rod from the arm and the frame. Replace the bushings and re-assemble.
-
My temp guage has been hitting the 1/2 mark here in Phoenix with the AC on. 110* does suck, even in the shade. I wouldn't worry unless it gets near 2/3. As for the stalling I would seriously consider the coolant temp sensor to be suspect. If the ECU doesn't get the proper reading from the sensor the air/fuel mixture will be off. I had similar idle issues on my last pathy and replacing the sensor fixed it. If the ecu doesn't like the signal it will return a code 13 in diagnostic mode III.
-
he said no codes..
and i don't agree on the idle jumping when you turn the wheels all the way to one side.. the idle will go down under the load. same goes for AC.
I guess I missed the part about no codes. He didn't ever say he tried pulling them. There definitely is a pressure switch in the PS system that tells the computer to kick up the idle when the pump is working hard. Same goes for the AC. The AC clutch trigger wire also signals the ECU to bump up the idle. Either of those could be disconnected and it could cause the vehicle to stall.
-
When I startup cold my rpms run a little low, about 650-700. If I turn on the AC to full, and then turn the wheel at a stop, she stalls a lot of the time.
Since your fan ripped off violently you could have severed one or more wires. Does your idle kick up when you turn the AC on? Without the AC does your idle kick up when you turn the steering wheel? The power steering pressure sensor wiring would be vulnerable to a flying fan blade. Also, did you happen to replace your thermostat when you fixed everything? My temp guage is centered at 180 which is the standard thermostat temp. With the the 170 degree thermostat (standard in hot climates) my truck sits at about 1/4 - 1/3 on the guage. You may also benefit from replacing the coolant temp sensor. It should throw a code if it's not working properly though. Any codes?
-
Brushes in the alternator will wear out more quickly under heavier loads. They are basically just electric motors in reverse.
Returned from automotive coma - IT IS ALIVE!
in General Forums
Posted
Excellent news. One more back from the dead. Pictures would be good.