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I am planning on changing out the O-rings on the oil cooler since it is leaking and the FSM states that you must drain both the coolant and engine oil. I was just going to pull the center bolt and swap out the O-rings. Do I really need to drain both the coolant and engine oil? I would like to avoid that since both fluids are fairly new. It seems like the oil cooler is above the oil pan so it should be fine. Does anyone have any experience with this?

I would also add some gussets from the frame to the square tubing. I had this same setup on my Toyota and when I came down hard on the rock sliders they bent up into the body. There is a lot of force leveraged that far out.

A lot of people get the Pathfinder resonators confused with a catalytic converter because they look almost exactly like one. These are not Cats, they are indeed resonators. I had mine cut out by a muffler shop and replaced with straight pipe. I looked down them once removed and the resonators are hollow with a small baffle and some sound deadening materials. They also have the habit of splitting at the seams and create a lot of noise under the pathfinder. Here is a link and pick of what the resonators look like and a possible fix: http://forums.nicocl...em-t437114.html Nissan Calls it a Tube Assembly – Exhaust, Front, Part # 20010 as shown here, depending on the year it is a straight tube or resonator: http://www.courtesyp..._4724_4725.html Is this what people are referring to as the 3rd and 4th “Cat”?

You are really going to have to move the front axle forward and the rear back, otherwise you will get into the doors when trimming. Looks like new extended links for the rear. How far does the SAS kit move the front axle forward?

Not to mention: -18 wheeler = 80,000 lbs -SUV = 5,000 lbs Not a good situation, but I imagine the driver of the SUV didn't feel a thing.

My Pathfinder is not lifted. I don't think the lift is the issue, when you lift the rear end the stabilizer bar will rotate in its bushings to accommodate the added height, there will be slightly different forces induced in the bar but nothing wildly outside of stock geometry. I think it is caused by some other issue, perhaps a manufacturing defect..

I had the exact same thing happen to mine, it broke right above the third member while my wife was pulling into the grocery store parking lot. When I removed it to investigate about 60-70 percent of the break was rusted, like it had been broken for quite some time and it finally gave out. I called the dealer to ask about it and get pricing, the parts guy had never heard of the rear stabilizer bar breaking in half, but was ready to sell me a new one for $170. I found one at a local salvage yard for $50, if the pathfinder wasn't my wife's daily driver I would have just left it off. The stiffer aftermarket sway bar seems nice but at a high price with probably not a whole lot of gain in performance. I would wait and find a good used one at a salvage yard.

Here, read Andrews build thread he was able to fit 33" tires on the 4x4parts 2" lift. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28224

That is true, it is very difficult to travel with a concealed weapon across state lines, well legally that is. Many states do accept and honor other states permits but you need to check the specifics on Ohio's permits and which states honor it. I think the gun vault is the best option. Personally, I would remove the seat and bolt it down to the floor, I wouldn't trust those cheesy cables either.

Dealership techs don't weld/fix, they replace

I have also been running silverstar for both my headlights and fog lights. I think they work great. Way better than stock. I assume that the PIAA's are very comparible. There is only so much light you can get out of the stock electric supply and headlight housing.

I think the idea here is that if you own or have access to a welder, than repairing the resonators is essentially free, minus the weld supplies. Deleting the resonators entirely costs money in pipe to close the new gap, plus money in weld supplies. Therefore just welding the existing resonators is the cheapest option. But unfortunately I do not own a welder, or have any welding skills so I went ahead and had the resonators cut out at a muffler shop.

I don't think there was an actual "recall" but Nissan issued the repair kit as a cheap fix. Unfortunately it only lasted a little while. Pictures can been seen at this link: http://forums.nicoclub.com/post4908639.html The first pic is the cracked seam The second pic is the "repair kit," it is the pipe clamp and small piece of angle steel along the pinch area of the resonator. Nissans kit contained pipe clamps, the steel u-shaped channels and some putty to "seal" the crack.

I have thought the same thing, but was a little hesitant to store anything like fire arms in a vehicle. They are way too susceptible to smash and grab type robberies, especially when you have eye candy accessories like a lift, winch, roof rack, etc. It makes thieves wonder what you have on the inside of the vehicle. Plus the center console is plastic and so is the back storage compartment, these could both be easily pried open with a screwdriver. I think the best and easiest option would be to bolt one of these in your cargo area: (You can find these for a whole lot cheaper than they have listed, like $100 at Cabellas) http://www.gunvault.com/handgun-safes/multi-vault-biometric.html Or even cooler would be to build your own vault that fits inside of your center console as seen here: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/22694-building-console-vault.html

Yes, they are for sure resonators and not catalytic converters. When I went to the muffler shop to have them removed the muffler guy was very hesitant to cut them out and also thought they were cats. But the O2 sensor is located before them just after the actual cat. If they were cats the O2 sensor would be located after them since hypothetically they would be doing a secondary treatment to the exhaust outlet. It would not make sense to install a O2 sensor before a cat, this would defeat the purpose of an O2 sensor. Furthermore when the muffler guy removed these he cut them open to see what they were. They are merely a resonator section with baffles. Almost looked like the interior of a cherry bomb muffler.

I was not sure if this issue has been covered in NPORA but wanted to share my recent discovery with fellow Pathy and QX4 owners. Soon after I purchased my pathy I noticed a rattle or muffle sound coming from underneath the vehicle. It was a little annoying and it seriously sounded like my exhaust was falling off. I got up underneath thinking it was a loose heat shield or hanger to notice some weird clamps and metal channels around what I thought was a secondary cat. I did some research and found that these “secondary cats” were not cats and were actually factory resonators. Furthermore Nissan had a major defect in these and installed band-aid type fixes to try and skirt the issue. The problem is, due to excessive heat and typical corrosion these resonators would crack along there robotically welded seam, and fail prematurely. Mine had the band-aid fix which typically failed after only 10 to 15,000 miles. There is also the possibility of getting toxic gasses leaking into the cab and making passengers sick. Here is the link to the customer complaint page on Topix: http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/nissan/TTG7L43U0AKTKACBF Possible solutions to permanently fix the cracked resonators: 1) Purchase and install factory resonators (Extremely expensive, $700 plus) 2) Purchase and install Walker aftermarket resonators ($200 to $300, depending on self or shop install) 3) Cut out the failed resonators and replace with straight pipe ($70 to $80 at a local muffler shop) 4) Remove the resonators, weld the seam, and re-install (Essentially free if self performed). Example of this being done here: http://forums.nicoclub.com/post4908639.html I ended up going with #3. This seemed like the most economical solution for me since I do not own my own welder. It made a world of difference; all is quiet now, and no more rattling! Plus the exhaust has a much throatier sound with the resonators removed, which I like. Hopefully this info helps some Pathy and QX4 owners.

Pics as promised. BFG All Terrain TA KO 265 70 R16 (Equivalent size to 265 65 R17) Picture of plastic molded with heat gun, will probably take several try's to get it right. Just heat it up and push it back, continue this until you get it the way you like it. Picture of Trimming on mudflap. Hopefully this helps

I will try to post some pictures tonight. (Pictures are worth a thousand words) Yes, all I had to do was melt and mold the front, front inner fender if that makes sense. It is the piece of plasitc just behind the fog light area that bumps out into the wheel well. Also, for good measure, I cut a little plastic out of the mud flap and a little off the corner of the front bumper with a dremel cut off wheel. I have absolutely no rubbing in full lock forward or reverse. I have not had it really flexed out but have taken it through various trails and have never heard it rub.

Don't buy new wheels or a lift if you are looking to get the most bang for your buck, especially if your only goal is to get a certain tire on your vehicle. Put on some BFG T/A KO 265 65 R17. These will fit with a little minor heat gun work and trimming. The rears will clear fine but you need to clearance your front inner fender a little. All you have to do is heat up your front inner fender with the heat gun and push it forward with a leather glove. That is all the clearance you need to run these larger tires. I fit some 265 70 R16 on my 2002 which are essentially the same size, with no lift, bone stock. They look awsome, and you will not regret putting on a larger than stock size. Now, if you are looking for an excuse to install a lift or buy new wheels, its your money