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1995 Pathy, 4X4, 5spd, AC, 3.0 V6, etc... This leak has very specific behavior. It only happens right when I park for about 30 minutes after the vehicle is cooling down...I suppose it could be happening when I'm driving, but I'd never know, since it is very small. I'm not sure what the fluid is, but I am sure exactly where it is coming from. Just to the rear of the engine oil pan, at the very bottom of what looks like the Tranny bell housing, there is a tiny rectangular hole. The fluid is coming out of there... What can or should I do about this ? My engine oil level doesn't seem to be going down enough to matter between 5k mile changes and I do change the filter every time ? Is it the oil from the tranny ? Front seal ? I'd say every time I park I get about 4 drops out of here before it stops. It really seems to me this leak started after I had the timing belt / water pump done...What say you guys ?

I thought it was a bear to remove/replace the dash cluster. My Honda Accord was a nightmare, and so was my wife's Taurus [ Nominated for junk car of the decade ]. How do you remove the instrument cluster ?

Yep, Speedo is always working fine. When I rap on the top of the dash area it does kinda jiggle the tiny numerals around for the trip odometer. Usually it starts working again. Where does the signal come in for this ? Is it a speedo cable from the transmission ?

Sometimes both of my odometers quit working. Resetting the trip doesn't help, and in fact this problem has been ongoing since December of last year, so I know that sometimes resetting the trip odometer CAUSES both of them to quit working. When they quit, the first thing I notice is the 10ths white numeral quits moving. My NPORA recommended solution is to WAIT until the vehicle is Off and Stopped ( Why ? ) then rap/pound sharply on the top of the dash directly above where the speedometer/odometer/trip odometer assy is located. A few tries of this and it usually starts working until the trip odometer goes above 999, and usually quits again. How can I troubleshoot this problem ?

Well, you guys were right , it was the on/off multifunction stick switch on the column. I mashed it back/forth a bunch of times, and now my HB and LB on both sides work fine ! What is the ultimate solution ? Replace the turn signal headlight switch lever assy ?

'95 Pathy V6, 5spd stick, 4X4, 98k miles. Low beam works both L and R side. L side High Beam doesn't work. Both bulbs have been replaced with known good h9004 type replacement bulbs. These bulbs have two filaments each. the socket they plug into has 3 wires going to it... What I can't understand is this: When I put my meter on the wires, with the bulbs plugged in, both sides act the same. The wire on the Right is black, the other two are red and red/something stripe. On low setting, I have 12 volts tween the farther wires. On the high setting I have 12v on both wires. Both sides the same. But only one high beam lights ? WTF ? Do I have the wrong bulbs installed ? I did notice the sockets they go into aren't exactly the same, previous owner had replaced the R side ( Working side ?). When I say socket here I mean the glass enclosure for the bulb. Both fuses of course are good. I actually have 3 known good bulbs now. How can I troubleshoot this problem ? It looks like I have the wrong bulbs installed and the circuit is unbalanced somehow...

Any I found a '94 pathy wrecked parting out on CL so I went to look at it...Mine is a '95 but most important this '94 had the same interior color scheme ( Light blue ). Immediately I was stoked 'cause the front seats had only minor wear and mine have cigarette burns which I hate......I wanted front seats, rear tail lights, brake lamp atop the rear hatch, and the window washer fluid reservoir ( mine is leaking slow )... So anyway I took everything off I wanted, piled it all on the bed of my pickup and then got the guy ( Heavy Russian Accent ) to do a deal, he wanted $150 and I finally got him down to $100, then pretended to only have $96 by taking all the money plus ones and coin change out of my pockets... [ Insert grin here ] When I removed the front seats, there was a small electronic module under the driver seat, like maybe 4" X 5"...There was a larger one under the Passenger seat....I put them both in the pile. What are these modules ? Will they work in my '95 ? Do they ever fail ? Could I use them for troubleshooting ? The major differences between the two vehicles is that mine is a stick, while the part out was an auto...Other than that they seemed the same... P.S. On an unrelated note, I recently had my timing belt/water pump done...And now I have a slow oil leak. I'm having a hard time nailing down the leak source. Help ?

Tree limb amputated my antenna so it is about 2' tall now. How hard to replace ? I have an aftermarket radio so I don't use the tiny wire in the windshield. Can I replace it without removing the fender ?

I have 91k miles and no reason to believe it has already been done. What is the recommended interval for a '95 ? I assume the water pump should be done at the same time ?

Well, today is April 16 and I haven't experienced any starting problems for about 2 weeks so here is my conclusion for this whole mess. 1. The Clutch switch was intermittent. 2. The original starter had a problem AND so did the starter I put in from Autozone. 3. The second replacement starter from Autozone does not have any problem. This whole problem was harder to solve because this intermittent problem was caused by TWO components: 1 Original Clutch Switch was intermittent 2. Original Starter was going bad slowly ( Would not crank ) 3. Replacement Starter from Autozone was bad. Item No. 3 really held up the process...

Well the switch seemed OK for a while, but then it started doing it again. Won't crank when warm, always cranks when cold. I replaced the new starter I installed from Auto zone and now I'm going to wait a while and make sure if the problem is fixed.

Ok, I've been troubleshooting this problem be eliminating parts of the starting system one at a time, and then driving all over the place waiting for this problem to happen again. The big cable going to the starter seems fine, so I'm working with the little wire which has all the other crap that tells the starter to turn.. Anyway, I now have the clutch pedal switch (Tells you the pedal is depressed ) jumped out and I have NOT had the non-start problem for almost 6 days. Jumping the battery didn't help by the way...and neither did jumping out the ignition switch. I think I may have found the problem, but I'll give it another week or so just to be sure. NAPA doesn't have the switch it seems, and the brakelight switch they wanted to substitute is OPEN with the plunger pushed in instead of CLOSED which is what I need. I hate going to the dealership, they are a$$holes plus really expensive, and no returns...One major reason a new Nissan isn't in my future...

Well, I'm willing to have it printed out IF there are significant differences between the '90 and '95 versions.... What is the answer to that ?

I found one for sale on Craigslist for a '90 Truck or Pathy and since I have a '95 I thought it might be better than the Chilton or Haynes (They are merged now ?) What say you guys ? Is this a good idea ? He only wants $10...

I should have mentioned the switch on the center console for alarm is OFF. I've checked it several times. It has always been OFF 'cause I don't have the keyfob. Also I should mention I did have a Battery Load test run on the battery...Firestone said this actually loads the battery several times with a load similar to starting juice, to make sure the battery can supply that level of starting current. I am currently carrying an extra battery (From the boat) around with me, so at least next time I'll try that right away, that should eliminate the battery from the equation all together. I'm also going to make a little wire w/spade connector, so next time I can just leave the key in ON and short that extra lead on the starter directly to the battery ( With a fuse in line of course...) and try starting it that way... I hate these type of intermittent problems !! For cryin' out loud, if there was just smoke pouring out of the damn thing, I could pinpoint the problem easily !!

I believe it does have aftermarket alarm installed, 'cause I saw some extra wires near the ignition switch area when I was working on tightening it up... Also it has the horn thing mounted to the L side fender adjacent to the exhaust manifold. Also it does chirp when I disconnect the battery. Hard to say if the alarm has remote start, though. I don't have a keyfob. Wouldn't even a regular alarm have some connections near the ignition switch, even if it didn't have aftermarket remote start ? PS It did it again this weekend one time. Seems like it follows a pattern: Drive 15 min, stop for 10, drive 10 stop for 10, drive for 10 stop for 10 min....Then it won't start unless I let it stay off for about 2 hours or maybe 1.5 hours. And I don't hear the solenoid click, either. Where would this "aftermarket alarm" computer control thing be mounted ? All I see it the horn and those extra wires I mentioned. I mean it does have to have a control module somewhere, right ?

Ok, I'm sorry to bother you guys... When I loaded the new chrome wheels in the back, the rear dome light was on...Oops my bad. Yes like a dumb@!*% I did ignore the red warning light on the dash. I guess that is why this time I heard the distinct solenoid click.... I jumped it and it started fine... I'm not thrilled the battery lost enough ummph ! to start just for running the dome light for about 4 hours....Seems kinda weak to me... My ignition switch is kinda loose on the column....It moves in and out...I guess I'll fuss with that this weekend.

Just went out side and the #$!&^% won't start again. Now I do hear the pretty loud solenoid click, but it doesn't crank at all....I guess I'll ask the boss for a jump, and pray... Damn !!!

I just found a set of chrome plated steel wheels on Craigslist for $55, the chrome is almost perfect, with just a touch of corrosion near the rim edge and around bolt holes. What is the best product to clean the chrome and get rid of the beginning rust ?

I should add that I was parked on the downhill side of the parking lot, this is Oregon, and it was around 5pm when I got started. So the negative was my anger built steadily working on it with no jack/ramp or anything, no turning your shoulders while under the vehicle...And hold the damn flashlight in your mouth. At 23 that would have been a minor inconvenience, at 43 my neck is still sore from the ordeal. The positive was rainwater accumulates on the down hill side of all parking lots in Oregon this time of year, so laying in the cold water helped me to cool off !!

Well, I did replace the relay on the fender near the battery. I also ended up replacing the starter (Very fun taking that out...) And now it starts fairly reliably and I'm back driving it on a regular basis. HOWEVER, sometimes it doesn't start on the first try...I have to cycle the key back and try again. This only happens when the vehicle is fully warmed up, I stop for a moment to get stamps, then try to restart, it won't crank at all on the first try. No solenoid click at all, then turn the key all the way off, and try again...Always works teh second time. Now what ? Should I resort to that other guys method ? Get a splitting maul, stand in front of the truck, open the hood and threaten its very existence ?

Well I did swap in the relay quick like before it started raining AGAIN !! I hate working on stuff outside in the rain ! Anyway, I guess I'll have to swap out the starter this weekend. I did get it to start one more time, but now it has failed twice again...

Oops, I forgot to add, this guy has very low mileage at 93k...It was sitting in a body shop yard for 2 years...Then I bought it in Nov of 2005.

Also about two months ago I did install a spring "helper" device that kinda worked good to take away the pathy typical rear sag look which I hate, plus I need it for towing the boat. It is a set of Air Lift 1000 springs from JC whitney. they are bladders you push inside the rear coil springs and then inflate. They seem to be working well, they were easy to install, and they weren't too expensive...

'95 Pathfinder, Manual 5spd, AC, PS, PB, 4X4. With the 3.0 v6 engine. Wouldn't start after a short drive during lunch hour at work. Waited 5 min, finally it started. It did take me home after work. No trouble starting. I got 'er home and looked at the starter 'cause I've had trouble with that little red wire on top on the spade connector...It has come loose before and gave the same symptom. Symptom is: Go to crank, all lights in dash ON including check engine, won't turn over at all. I'm not sure I even hear the relay click. So anyway at home I took that wire off the spade connector it was pretty greasy with oil (filter is right there) and cut off the connector. I put a new connector on with a 4" length of lighter guage wire cause the heavier wire was pulling on the connector, and it is only a slide on... But now it won't start at all, and it does the same thing. I do have +12v on the red wire when I turn the key, but no turn over at all. I do have 12v on the other huge wire on the big terminal on the starter. Also I did check all the fuses and I did check the fusible links at the battery + terminal. I did check the ground to the engine also... I haven't tried jump starting it, but the windows and headlights seem strong. Plus the battery is only about 16 months old... Where do I go from here ?