arctic_mark

Thanks man, I'll go have another poke around.

OK, probably complete novice questions but . . . Got a body lift planned for my '94 Pathy. Read all the posts about longer HB T-case shifters versus slice'n'splice on a Pathfinder shifter versus bending versus notching the floor etc. All good info. I have an old '92 Pathy as my parts rig so I'm going the cut-and-lengthen route. The rig I'm lifting is an automatic but my parts truck is a manual. So my questions are . . . 1) Are the T-case shifters for the automatic and manual the same? 2) How the bloody hell do you remove the shifter!? I've tried on the manual-box parts rig and got all the points where the links pivot on the transmision casing disconnected but there doesn't seem to be room to pull the linkage off the splines without dropping the T-case and transmission. Do I have to dissasmeble the ball joints that are protected by the rubber boots or should it just simply unscrew somwhere? Haven't looked at the (auto-box) rig that I want to lift yet as its my daily driver and I'm real busy at the moment. There's probably a really simple way, but I'm just being mechanically chalanged. If it just unscrews and I've overlooked it, then I'll really feel kinda stupid!

Don't have any pics at the moment. Will try and get unde rthere and take some to post though

Hey guys Haven't been on here for ages (like since Novemeber last year!) been WAY to busy with work. Anyway got a whole bunch of Autometer gauges to go in my '94 V6 Pathy and a whole bunch of questions too. So, where would be the best place for mounting the sending units for oil pressure, oil temp and water temp? Oil pressure switch port next to the opil filter with a T-fitting for the oil pressure so I can still keep the idiot light? But then where for oil temp? And where's best for water temp - in the hose to or from the rad? Also, for existing mounting ports (e.g. oil pressure switch) does anyone know what the metric thread pattern is so I can get the right NPT adapter without having to taker apart, measure, put back together etc etc. Got the tranny gauge in with two senders (cooler line in, cooler line out) on a rocker switch. Works great, I can see how well my tanny cooler's working! Thanks for your in-put and hopefully I'll be bcak on the forum a lot more now. Cheers Mark

Well, after damaging clutch plates in my auto hubs when changing my CV axles I got me the Mile Marker Premium hubs. Hopefully now I shouldn't get stuck in my own snowy driveway when the hubs refuse to engage! Got the new hubs on my desk and got Thursday off work! Sweet!

Thanks man, does raise the question though . . . Warn, Milemarker or Superwinch?

Basic question, but without taking the hub off (again) and looking my self, what is the spline count on the drive axle of a 1994 SE V6 3 litre 4wd? Want to order the correct manual hubs first time. Thanks Mark

OK. We got everything off and the new axle in on one side no problems. But when it came to re-assembling the auto hub the groove for the snap ring wasn't quite out far enough to get the old ring on. The splined washer and clutch plates weren't pushing back far enough or the end of the axle wasn't sticking out far enough. Ended up busting the splined washer into fragments trying to get the snap ring on. So now I've only got 3 wheel drive. Any ideas why the end of the axle wasn't sticking out far enough? These were brand new axles so maybe there wasn't really a problem just that I should have got a bunch of new snap rings of different thickness that would have fit. Oh well, looks like I'm ordering manual hubs. I hear the Milemarker is pretty good. But no wheeling this weekend, only as a passenger if I can get a free seat

The Haynes manual and the Nissan shop manual talk about selecting new snap rings of the correct thickness and using a dial indicator etc etc. Any need for this or is it OK just to put on the new axle with the old snap rings and not worry about it. I didn't want to go to the parts desk and buy like 6 different snap rings at $8 canadian a shot just in case I needed one.

Yup, that's exactly what I want to do, but don't like the idea of the tranny sucking dry as it pumps the fluid out into the bucket. As far as I can gather, it wouldn't be able to pump new fluid back in unless you pumped it in yourself. Mark

Has anyone used the Motive Products Power Bleeder system to flush and refill their brake fluid? Seen a couple for sale on E-Bay and they look pretty good. It relies on positive pressure in the bleeder pump reservoir to force fluid through the lines. http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html Also, I was thinking, would it work for flushing your ATF? I want to drop the pan, new gasket, flush the fluid while adding an external cooler etc etc. Reading on the forum here I see that you can run the engine and cycle through the gears to pump the fluid out through the line that runs to the cooler in the stock rad, BUT it doesn't suck new fluid back in through the return line. Could you use the power bleeder system to pump fluid into the return line from the cooler to stop the tranny from emptying out, thus truely flushing it rather than just replacing the fluid? Would this cause problems? Has anyone done this? Advice would be great. Cheers Mark

I was thinking that, just after my last post. No way it would improve CV joint angles at all. Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor not a mechanic!

Yeah, that's what I figured, the missing bump stops being the main factor. As for the T-bars, I'm running a Calmini 3" suspension lift wich comes with new UCAs and T-bars to help maintain better CV angles so it shouldn't be too much of a problem. Or that's the idea at least! As for the shock, that's the second mounting eye on a Calmini shock that I've had fail in the last 18 months. Gonna swap those out for some better made ProComps when I replace the damaged bushings and ball joints. Mark

Ruby Falls. South west of Edson (or NW of Nordeg) in Alberta, on the eastern slope of the Rockies. Some awsome wheeling in the area there. The trails must be around 30-40km long, some great booulder crawling, river crossings and huge "jeep-eating" mud holes in places. Was there for teh canada day weekend so it was crawling in quaders. makes a good winter run too if you manage not to break through the ice! Got a whole bunch more pics in my photobucket site if you're interested. Mostly jeeps though as I was busy driving my own rig.

sorry to post twice, the computer crashed as I was posting it the first time.