Revco

You're saying that it made "all these noises"...to me, that doesn't sound like the factory alarm. The factory alarm will run the horn...and all you'll hear are short horn bursts. Annoying...but I would think you would use the words "the horn was blaring" not "all these noises". If that's the case, your factory switch that turns off the impact sensor and alarm would likely not function. If there is an impact sensor, there will generally be an adjustment that can be made on the sensor itself. If it's set too sensitive, a butterfly farting 10 yards from the vehicle could cause it to go off. I think we need for details here...does it sound like a horn or some god-awful siren or some sort?

I would concur...my '95 SE came stock with 15x7 wheels and ran 31x10.5" tires, according to the sticker on the drivers side door. The body differences between the '94 and '95 were minimal. I do know that some Pathys rub a little on the wheel well when running these oversize tires. When I was buying my 'Finder, I drove a '94 with 31x10.5" tires and it rubbed only slightly when 4x4 was engaged and the wheels were turned to their extremes. The rubbing was very minimal and didn't affect driveability...and I experience the same on my '95.

That's just unreal. It does seem like something's out to cause you (or your Pathfinder) harm. That just plain sucks. At least your truck wasn't totally thrashed when it was stolen...that seems to be the MO of a lot of car thieves. I've heard stories about stolen cars and cars being broken into around Spokane. It's pretty bad with the meth problem we have. Keeping valuables visible in your vehicle is never the best idea. If they're visible...it's just asking for trouble. Obvious stereo equipment is also a big target amongst thieves. It would be a good idea to build a "stealth" amp box and cover your sub box with one of those vinyl pullouts for the hatch area. Stereo equipment stickers on your rig are a bad thing. Removing your stereo's faceplate will also deter thieves...most won't bother if they see the faceplate missing unless they see other gear. The idea is to make everything looks as stock as possible and not draw any attention to your rig. When you're approching a place where you plan to leave your rig...don't roll in with the stereo bumping...it just draws attention to any would-be thieves that may be lurking. While not the best deterrent, a decent alarm may have prevented/deterred the breakins...and is cheaper alternative than having to replace a decent stereo. A thief isn't going to stick around when an alarm is blaring. Make sure it has an impact sensor and a visible LED. I hope these bad vibes leave you soon. I hate to see it...especially in the city I live in. Take care!

Wow! That's pretty crazy...almost sounds like a total loss. Back in high school I had a couple friends that burned up their cars after their "boyfriend" installed their stereos. Insurance was denied due to incompetent stereo installer. Bummer. I dunno about the "hairline" exhaust fracture. If it's big enough to build up significant heat while driving down the road, I'd expect to see carbon monoxide poisoning symptoms when driving slow or stopped. I've been poisoned by carbon monoxide several times and even in small amounts you'll feel the effects. (Light headed, nauseaus, headaches, out-of-body type feelings...it's weird) I'm still going with tranny cooler...that's just the most likely scenario. Mookie did bring up some excellent points, though.

After the trucks been run for awhile, if you reach your finger underneath the console and carpet...if your finger burns or is excessively hot, chances are good that your stock tranny cooler is plugged. That's the exact symptom my '95 AT displayed. If you're not running an after market tranny cooler...I highly recommend spending about $150 to have one installed. (You can do it yourself for about $60-80) It's good to keep your tranny going and will cool things down under the console significantly. It will also help shifting as more fluid will be able to reach the tranny. Check out the product reviews forum...many people have written about what they've put in their Pathys. Good luck!

That wouldn't be a bad idea anyway. Just don't move to Portland...they're getting too big for their britches...the roads can't support their population. That's why I moved, anyway...was tired of 3-4 hours a day spent in traffic. Washington's always an option, too! Good luck!

Sorry...I'm a tard. I *apparently* didn't quite grasp the simple concept of "they don't work" expressed in your reply. Pardon me.

There's a couple TSB's out on this - one specifically addressing rust on the driver's side floor pan. I'd recommend getting a hold of these as it addresses very specific repair procedures that will insure the job is done right. If you want the TSB's, PM me & I'll get 'em to you.

I've heard several times that as long as you are adding a different type of fluid in small (under 2-3 quarts or so) amounts that you will be OK. Is this incorrect? I'd concur that using DexronII is correct for PS & AT. Both SM & Mitchell say so.

I went with La Clede Alpine Sport chains for my '95. I had to use them last year when making a trip over the Rockies during a *nasty* storm. They worked out great and were somewhat easier to put on than cables/chains I've used in the past. There is a body style difference between our rigs, so I can't speak to any compatibility problems. If it's possible to run chains, I'd recommend that particular type.

Well...if you do nothing, you run the risk of the manifold warping which will affect gas mileage and will ultimately require you to replace the manifold. If you remove or tighten the "bad" studs, you risk breakage which can also result in the above if you run it for too long like that. You can get new "revised" manifold studs from Brown & Brown Nissan (Tempe, AZ - 800-237-0003) for $2.80 a piece. (Reg. $3.50) Nissan part # is 14065-V5004. I'm the kind of guy that likes to do it right...you can order new nuts (P/N 14039-W1500) for $.32/ea (Reg. $.40) and new washers (P/N 14037-V5005) for $1.38/ea (Reg. $1.72). You could certainly reuse the nuts & washers you have now - they were never a problem. You'll also want to replace the gasket - ~$20.00/ea side from Nissan - but FelPro makes a decent replacement (P/N MS92271) at $18 for both sides. Like you mentioned, soak 'em in blaster for a few days. Even with that, they may break and you may need to take more extreme measures to get 'em out. Or, you can just say "F-it" and leave 'em in. CaseyT runs a rig with only 2 studs holding one of the manifolds on. Then again, you could do like a lot of us and just order headers to go along with this project and get some HP/MPG to boot. The way I see it, if you're replacing a manifold, might as well upgrade. The cost to replace both manifolds is very close to the cost of the headers + install. Well...I said a lot and didn't really tell you what to do. You've got options...now you gotta choose what's best for you.

Here's a decent place to start: About.com's Maintenance How-To's There's a ton of info on the web about doing your own maintenance. Just do a quick Google search and you'll have tons of info at your fingertips. We'll be glad to answer any specific questions relating to the Pathfinders that you may have.

I'd just take it in to a Nissan dealer & demand they honor their warranty. I don't know that you have to prove they're leaking...just that they have crappy studs. We know that if they aren't all ready leaking, they ARE going to leak somewhere between 100K-120K almost guaranteed. I've heard mixed reviews on getting 'em replaced within the 100K. Some had luck & other didn't. (Personally, I found out about the issue about 5K miles too late!) Maybe talk to them about how you're concerned about buying that new '05 Pathy/Armada due to issues with parts and honored warranties or something. Good luck...and definately at least try!

Dude...you gotta Dell. Or an HP...or an IBM...or...whatever. Laptops are kewl. Thanks for the long-awaited pix! Looks like you guys had some fun in that big puddle!

Dang...that sux! What a dill-hole...running off like that. Hope you got good insurance! Let's not make wrecking a daily habit around here...OK?

That's something else! What an experience. I love the detail you provided for the wheel's journey off the road...I could almost see it happening! Glad you & the Pathy are home safe. There are way too many mechanics out there like that. They get in a hurry to get things done & sure enough, something gets missed. Out of dozens of mechanics that I've used over the years...I've only found one that did me right *every time* - sadly, he was driven out of business by a "big" shop moving next door that could offer faster & cheaper service.

There's another discussion brewing at the moment about doing an engine swap between the old & new styles. Lgranch noted that the manifolds are different between the two - though specific details were not provided. Read about it here: Differences Between Blocks

That's a little difficult to say. We'd need to at least know the inlet & outlet size needed & whether you want single/dual inlet/outlet.

If you're only looking for sound, you need only to look at replacing the muffler. A Flowmaster 40 series should give you a good rumble. The 50 series is a bit quieter. Dynomax also makes a Super Turbo muffler that I've heard sounds good. All these mufflers are not vehicle specific - and many here run them. If you're looking for performance as well, a full exhaust overhaul with Throley headers, 2-1/4" pipe, and new muffler will increase performance and sound quite a bit. No matter what you do, you're not going to get the rumble/sound from a V8. It'll still rumble a bit and rip awfully nice at higher RPM's, though.

I've owned two in my life...but only one at the moment. Got rid of my '89 for a Bronco...biggest vehicle mistake of my life. When opportunity knocked, I kicked down the door and bought my '95. Glad to be back in a reliable rig. I don't think I'd own two...I am in the market for a cheap fuel-efficient car at the moment, though. This 15MPG stuff is killing me! Gas bill last month was nearly $400. Ouch.

Maybe if you take more drugs, it won't matter anymore. Or wear BF earplugs. You might want to try a 50/50 holy-water to anti-freeze mix.

I would add that if the manufacturer's application notes do not mention the year, it's likely that it will not work for some reason. In the case of headers, it could be due to a different bolt pattern, intake arrangement, not enough room, or simply that "too much" customization is needed to get them to go in. I would note that Throley makes two separate types of headers - one for '86-'89 & one for '90-'95. Pace Setter has a similar setup. They're doing this for a reason. Unfortunately I don't have a FSM for pre-90's 'Finders, so I can't say for sure about specific differences.

Agreed. I'll try not to let that pesky thing that pays the bills get in the way next time. Maybe in a couple weekends? Does the ORV park close for winter...it's feeling like snow could come our way any day now. If u want, I've got a laptop & card reader...we could hook up tomorrow night or something. Lemmeno...

^^^^He has drugs with scuff plates drawn on them^^^^ I want what he's having. Where does Dowser come up with this stuff??

That's a bummer about the damage, Oliver. Fortunately nothing major...I'm sure any of us would be willing to help if needed. ....Thursday...pictures...just 27 hours, 58 minutes, 15 seconds away... Arrrg...his computer won't be ready at midnight...strike that...more like 37 hours, 57 minutes, 27 seconds...26 seconds..25...24........can't wait...must hurry...