QuismO
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Posts posted by QuismO
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there are small bulbs behind the gauge cluster that need to be replaced, you can get the bulbs at your local auto store....usually around 3-5 bucks for a pair
EDIT: Oh and welcome to NPORA forums!!! stick around =)
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yea fueler, i was hoping kragen did it as they're closer to me, so i called kragen and they don't do it. i'm not sure how autozone does it around you guys, but the autozone here requires a 200 deposit or something like that, you get the money back when u return it...so i heard.
anyways, i dc'd the battery for 10 mins, reconnected it (i figured hell, it's just like replacing a battery, consequences shouldn't be devastating), and the light turned off. so i figure, if the light comes back, then i should really go to a shop to pull some codes for me. i'll drive around a bit to see if the light turns back on.
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no it runs good as ever...no noticeable probs
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I'm not gonna say much about prices cause I'm not, what you may call, an o2 efficianado
Someone else will see this and chime in. Anyhow, buying a scanner isn't a bad idea at all. $70 is actually pretty cheap! actually scratch that...i'm pissed. i called kragen to ask how much was their cheapest obdii scanner, the guy said 69.99. i go there, cheapest one is 130...WTF!!! ahhhhh
EDIT: i read somewhere that there are 4 o2 sensors total...front, rear, with 2 banks each. i'm hoping that there are no codes, but if there are, i'm hoping it's the fuel filter or o2 sensor, rather than the cat converter or something.
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few more questions, how many o2 sensors are there? where are they?
also, i found beck & arnley, and bosch o2 sensors on ebay for 17.95...dependable replacements?
EDIT: i'm just gonna buy an obdii reader/scanner as kragen sells one for $70...i figure it's worth having since most of our cars are obdii compliant.
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ahhh i see... hehe thanks.
man i called the local autozone and they don't have any OBDii scanners to give out right now.
called the stealership just to get an idea on how much it is to pull codes...$169!!!!!!!!!!!!! $61 just to reset the light...WTH.
a local garage gave me a $40 price for pulling codes.
$100 +/- $10 for an o2 sensor at the parts stores around here...sound right?
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FTW? hehe sorry i have no idea what that means.
so you think it's the O2 sensor eh? i'm gonna try and get some codes pulled ASAP before trying to reset the light.
BTW, my Q's a '97
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ok i found a few links on the web on this subject...
Link 1 says that i can disconnect the battery for 24 hours to clear the code.
Link 2 says that sometimes this can cause more problems, especially for smog related issues....
WTH, i might call a stealership to see how much it is to clear the light.
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I want to know how to turn this light off, it just turned on during my drive to lunch. I know i don't have anything wrong with the engine, fluids have changed, belts, t-belt, plugs, filters, everything within the last 5k miles.
Does anybody know how? tried searching, as well as the service manual, can't really find it.
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What? I find the OEM Nissan tool to be *perfect* for plug #6. There is a groove cut into the firewall specifically for the plug #6 tool (the shorter tool).
I did cut my hands on the firewall the first time ever changing plugs, but it has been very easy ever since then. Changing plugs takes 10 minutes now, minus the time to blow compressed air all over the place.
Don't throw your tools away - if anything, sell them on here in the Classifieds. People need those.
seriously, i don't think that there could be another tool/extension that could do the job better for plug #6. the bend angles on the hand lever are made perfectly so that it clears the engine, and everything else in that area.
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i busted my antenna mast last season in the snow as i tried to turn on the stereo to listen to the traffic/conditions report only to find that my antenna was frozen in place...so the little teeth got stripped off of the nylon belt thing.
i'm gonna go the ebay route, i don't even want to try to get a quote from the dealer. i saw a listing for $12.95 +$5 for shipping.
hopefully your old antenna from the garage will have a snug fit.
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NGK's are darned fine plugs, and all I use in Nissans.
i was running bosch's until venge hinted that i try NGK's...i will never turn back. i immediately saw an increase in gas mileage...+1 mpg...that'll add up in money saved!
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lucky bastard! LOL
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BS IMO
i second that opinion. a capacitor being discharged on average 3000 times/minute at whatever wattage needed to create a spark at the plug would need to be pretty heavy duty...and probably wouldn't be able to fit INSIDE a wire housing...it'd probably run a lot more pricey to get a small capacitor that really did work.
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Has anybody put the HIDs from the Q into a Pathy? I saw a black Q this morning on the way to work and began to think. I have HIDs in my M3 and I really like them.
i believe that the Q HID's are a little taller than the halogen housings
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$30 k US
pfffttttt.... and the reserve is still not met.......
:eek:
Really??!!! goodness...must've been either a huge hassle, or mighty expensive to bring it to the states.
or maybe the seller is just a greedy bastard =P
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you might have to do some cutting to make the new center console/armrest flush with your floor/carpet. a good secure mount might also be quite a challenge and require some fabbing.
but hell, if you have the tools and the parts from the junkyard...go for it! post pics too, i'd love to see how it turns out.
if you want, i can measure the width/length of the center console area to give you an idea of how it'd fit.
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I choose to use Mobil 1 as I run most vehicles for 300K + miles....
i hope i get 300k+ miles out of my baby =D
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QUOTE (Slick @ Oct 10 2006, 11:52 AM)
they say once you go synthetic, you can't go back.
:confused: :confused:
i wonder if that's true too. i always switched between the two on my celica...she went on to 130k, which is when i sold it, no problems whatsoever.
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balance would defnitely be my first suspect.
yea i agree. when quick vibration only occurs at highway speeds, i'd definitely think of unbalanced wheels from the get go. i had to have my wheels rebalanced after i got my new tires last month as well.
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Question: does it have to be SG, because that what Chilton's books says again, and this Valvoline oil says API SM? not compatible?
SM is currently the highest standard as it meets 2005 manufacturer's warranties.
from lowest to highest, it goes
SA
SB
SC
SD
SE
SF
SG
SH
SH*
SJ*
SL*
SM*
where the "*" means that the oil manufacturer was given a license 'cause their oils meet certain standards (you'll see a gold/yellow star-shaped symbol on the bottle). so according to the above requirements, since you need SG, you can use SG and anything higher (SH, SH*, SJ, SL, or SM)
EDIT: BTW slick, i'm with you on the restore thing, it does give you a noticeable change. i feel more of a kick from a dead stop, and when going up inclines on highways, i don't need to force the tranny to go into a lower gear as much as i did before. 'cause on this one uphill stretch of I-80, if i kept it in 4th gear (auto tranny) and gas it to the point right before it downshifts, i'd slow down little by little. Now, if i keep it in 4th, i'll actually gain speed little by little.
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so uhmm...what is it SUPPOSED to look like?
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welcome! btw...sylvia looks sexay!
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lol DAAAAAMN welcome!!!
Stock speakers, would amping help?
in The Garage
Posted
yea i swapped out my bose speakers for some boston acoustics a while back...they sound much better, especially since the 6.5 inch in the front passenger door was blown =P