QuismO

Hey all, I just wanted to give you all my most sincere gratitude for all of the help and wealth of information that was given. After hitting 167k miles on the QX4, i sold it for $6300. I opted for an Audi A6 as i need a more fuel efficient vehicle with a little more umph as well as the AWD capability for the snow (lol i know a lot of you are gonna say "you should've bought a 3.5L pathy!"). The guy who bought my car test drove 17 other 3.3L pathies/QX4's in the area, and he said none of them compared to mine, and none of the owners had as much knowledge as i did about their pathy. The knowledge gave me the edge of paying special attention to specific and problematic issues with the car, as well as doing things the right way...on the first try. I contribute ALL of this to all of the help you've given me. In turn, i have told him about NPORA, and actually insisted that he join this board. Again, Thanks a bunch!!! Ian QuismO

you can also use cat & dog spot/odor remover with enzymes. it breaks down mildew and other stinky stuff...yes it will work on your shoes too! =P i used this for my celica since i had the same problem with the AC...worked like a charm.

i like the OWL'S =)

both of mine are in the fuse box under the hood, labeled "power outlet 1" and "Power outlet 2" if i remember the fuse names correctly. outlet 2 is for the rear.

goodness, that does indeed look insane...never seen anything like it in the 0 years i've been offroading =P at least all is good. let us know what the shop fixed afterwards yea?

yea a buddy of mine did that with s2000 lenses...but i myself think that the hid kit is expensive enough =P

i have an HID conversion kit on my '97 and i love it. since you have an '01, i'd get a euro spec headlight assembly from ebay to guarantee a better cut-off line. my cut-off line for my '97 isn't crisp, but it's defined enough to keep the beam below the top of the license plate of the car in front of me. you should indeed rewire using relays/fuses between the ballasts and battery, using the headlight harness as the positive switch. although running the HID's draw less current than standard halogens, it is the initial ignition of the HID's that draw more current...i've actually tested the current, and each ballast draws about 9-11 amperes during ignition (that's at least 108 watts), then drops down to 2.8~3.2 amps shortly thereafter (around 35 watts). so if you think about it, the halogen bulbs are rated at around 45 watts, and let's say they can stand 65 watts as the high beams are 65 watts, and the wire gauge is the same for both high and low...doubling up the current on those wires during ignition doesn't sound like a good idea...which is why i rewired using a relay for each ballast. FYI, i got the 9004 kit for $200 on ebay, another $30 or so to purchase heavier gauge wire and relays/fuses. here are some pics of my '97 with hid's. i remember posting these pictures when i first got the lights. the pictures don't do the lights justice, it really is insanely better.

seriously...welcome...from daly city

it's the EVAP canister vent control valve (part # 14935-54u06 about $100) which is located on the charcoal canister which is situated behind the driver-side rear tire. unfortunately, you will have to change out the canister as well (part # 14950-1s717 $144.22). your trouble code might be due to the charcoal brick breaking up and clogging the valve. you might want to take a look at this HOW TO hope this helps, ian edit: oh and don't forget the o-ring (part # 16618-40u00 about $1.60) which goes between the valve and the canister. i just realized that you have a '97, which is the same as mine. unfortunately the EVAP system had some flaws, flaws which were corrected the following year.

www.nporaforums.com here weee comeee!!!!

hey thanks for the replies guys...it seems like everytime i checked back on NPORA...the forums were down for whatever odd reason =P. it doesn't seem too hard, i'll let you guys know how my install goes =P

so i ordered two complete front CV axles with boots and all. I saw the how to and made a post a while back, but i don't think that the How To section gets much traffic since everyone here knows how to do everything =P to me, it gets kind of hazy after removing the snap ring and the six bolts that hold the axle to the t-case. Questions: If i remove the snap ring, is the hub and rotor supposed to slide off of the end of the axle? Of course assuming i remove the brake caliper. the thing that the floor jack supports...what exactly is the knuckle/hub deal? thanks all.

i'd say that's a good deal if you don't want to do the work yourself. i paid 425 at a local shop to have everything mentioned above changed...with the exception of the coolant hose.

so i'm thinking that i should do this soon since one of my boots are ripped. i've seen new cv axles on ebay for $65 USD (including shipping) per side (are they any good?). i'm trying to follow your walkthrough and pictures but can't quite see where the floorjack is supporting the "hub/knuckle". i've seen other pictures and walkthroughs with people unbolting arms and all this other junk...doesn't seem necessary according to you, which i LIKE! any other tips and tricks would be helpful, the cheapest quote i got for swapping out the axles was $600, i'd love to just spend $130 and do it myself while learning. thanks a bunch guys n gals!