BigMike
-
Posts
345 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by BigMike
-
-
*snort* show off...
-
soon there will be more options for GPS. the new type they are developing now is called TV-GPS, it used tv signals to triangulate your position. and as you know tv signals can pass though alot, plus the transmitters for tvs are like 1000 times as powerful as the GPS transmitters now. problem is that the transmitters cant keep the time like regular GPS can.
-
Exact same thing here...Castrol GTX High Milage 10w-40....man don't miss the filler neck on the valve cover that shish stinks!!!
Castrol is the only oil that i think smells burnt in the container, anyone else notice that??? I tried using full synth. but the old cam seals were dripping like crazy!!
yea ive noticed that too.
i use castrol GTX HighMillage 10-w30 on mine
Castol Synthetic on the Sentra and Mobil 1 synthetic on the Ram
-
you can find the tranny coolers at the autoparts store, ebay, junkyards ect. its not hard to do at all. you just mount the new one where you want, disconnect the old one and run new hoses from the tranny lines to the new one. takes like 15 mins to do and cost maybe 50bucks. if you do get an auto pathy its prolly wise to get the tranny flushed for a good measure and filled with some quality oil. just make sure you get the biggest tranny cooler you can find, cause the cooler it runs the longer it lasts.
-
i had to rebuild mine at around 115k miles. it had problems with the forward gears, but i could still drive it just fine cept for the fact that i was going 45-50 at 3000-3500rpm consistantly. she still drove fine and during that time i never had another problem with the tranny other that the shift problem. i could even do 70mph but hovering around 4200rpm. it just sounds like your trying to race the whole city like that. i dont drive like a granny either, i tend to gas it hard every where i prolly should take it easy but wheres the fun in that.
-
the main cause is from the tranny oil cooler. it gets clogged easy cause the lines are small. if you find a pathy that has recently had the tranny replaced then your alright on the tranny issue. if it doesnt have an aftermarket tranny cooler put the biggest one you can find on it. completely bypass the stock one. almost the number one thing to fail on the autos in the reverse. prolly from overheating and killing the soliniod.
-
prolly better to take it to the shop and have them pressure test is, if the are a good shop they will have all the guages and equipment to do it. the compressors inherently leak very little freon, and it might need new O-rings. i suggest you look at the lines for freon oil accumulating anywhere on the AC system.
-
get some cherry wood and smoke him out, it'll get rid of the pee smell. other than that i second the glue traps. our house was built where a forested/plains used to be so we get plenty of field mice in our garage. catch them suckers all the time.
-
It could be your tranny overheating or it could be your 4x4 lever boot is busted. Under the leather cover for the 4x4 shifter is a rubber boot, if this boot is thorn, it will get quite hot around the consol area. I replaced mine and it made a world of difference. Pretty easy to check, there should be two snaps that hold the bottom to the carpet. Just unsnap and check the status of the boot underneath.
Denis
is it OEM? i went to see if the stealer even had replacement rubber boots and they said they discontinued them
-
The Mars Volta, i love those guys they got some awsome songs. The window, Miranda that ghost just isnt holy anymore: vade mecum. thats a very long song name, but the song rocks. the trumpets kick ass.
Avenged Sevenfold, very good band.
Bad Religion, awsome.
Led Zep, Rolling Stones some classic rock.
almost always blasting no matter what, i love my music and i love it LOUD. when your passneger cant hear you when you lean over to talk to them, then you know its loud.
-
i was talking about having a second powersteering pump and second hydraulic circuit just for the winch. i cant imagine that it would be impossible to do. i dont know all the specifics on hydraulics but couldnt be too hard to find out. would be just a pump bracket and some lines i think,
-
i fixed mine the same way, cept not washers with an old credit card that i tore up and stuffed under. i really should get around to fix it permanatly.
-
a torch a vise and a BFH(big f'n hammer) will prolly get that out. and maybe some welding like derogate said.
-
The axle code is located on the door jamb sticker on Nissans. If it's not there, there are visual ways of determining what you have. On some older trucks it's on a plate in the engine bay above the fender well on the passenger side.
HF35 - H190 axle found in weenie 2wd Hardbodies.
HF37 - H190 axle found in weenie 2wd Frontiers
CA41 - Found on 720's - This is a C200/R180 combo with 4.11 gearing. Some 720's have the smaller H190 rear end that's identified by not having a removable rear diff cover. R180 front ends in 720's are different than the Hardbody and Frontier versions, as the diff is nearly centered. 720's use unequal length halfshafts and are not interchangeable. All 1986.5+ halfshafts are interchangeable left to right.
CA43 - found on 720's and Hardbodies. C200 rear / R180 front, 4.375:1 gearing
CA46 - found on Hardbodies and 4 banger Frontiers - C200 rear / R180 front, 4.625:1 gears
CA45 - found in 2003+ Frontier 4x4's. This is a C200/R180 combination with a new gear ratio - 4.5something:1 The C200 was upgraded to 31 splines on this model from the previous 29 spline unit.
HG43 - Found on Pathfinders, V6 Hardbodies, and a few '99 Frontiers - H233B rear / R200 front, 4.375:1 gearing. On the 2000+ 33 spline axles, the HG43 has a 4.363 ratio, however this is not a common axle code on the later models.
HG46 - found on auto equipped pathfinders, 96-97 hardody 4 bangers, many Xterras and Frontiers. This one has some variation. Pre-2000 versions are the H233B axle with 4.625:1 gearing (31 spline axles). 2000+ is the H233B axle with 4.636:1 gearing (33 spline axles). Typically comes with an R200 front axle, with the exception being in the '96-97 Hardbody pickups - those had an H233B / R180 combination. Axle shafts in the H233B were 31 spline up to about 2000, where they switched to 33 spline shafts. All Xterras and R50 Pathfinders received the 33 spline axles. In Frontiers, it can be a crapshoot if you have a '99-'00 model, though it is believed that the switchover was at or near 2/00 production date.
HG49 - found in mid year 2001+ Frontiers and Xterras. H233B / R200 combo with 4.90:1 gears.
Locker Selection:
ARB lockers are available for the older 30 spline C200's and all H233b's. They're also avaialble for the R200 front, however no traction device is out there for the R180.
Calmini LSD's will work in an R200 front. (A Calmini LSD is a slightly modified '87-89 Turbo 300ZX LSD)
Lockrights will only work in the older 31 spline H233B.
Detroit used to make a locker for the older 31 spline H233B, but those are getting scarce.
Up to 4.875:1 gearing is available for C200's and R180's. Up to 5.143 gearing can be had for H233B's and R200's. AC and SLR are the two companies offering gears, or you may be able to get them through Nismo.
Let's say you don't have the doorjamb sticker.
H190 - small 3rd member type axle found in 2wd's only (excluding Desert Runners, Xterras, pathfinders)
C200 - removable rear diff cover, 8 bolts. Found in all Nissans (yes, even a few early 2wd Pathfinders)
H233B - large 3rd member type axle found in most V6 and a few 4 banger 4x4's, Desert Runners, and 2wd Pathy's and 2wd Xterra V6's.
Other notes:
The H233B 3rd member changed from 9 bolts to 11 studs to hold it to the housing beginning with the 1990 models. Somewhere along this time (maybe around 6/89, the bolts holding the ring gear to the carrier changed from 10mm to 12mm, making a difference in replacement gear sets.
What do the numbers mean?
The number in the axle model indicates the size of the ring gear in mm.
R180 - 180mm ring gear
H190 - 190mm ring gear
C200 / R200 - 200mm ring gear
H233B - 233mm ring gear (yes, that's about 9.25"!)
How do I figure out my gear ratio?
Put a jack under the diff and get both wheels under the ground. Draw a chalk line on the tires where they would contact the ground. Rotate BOTH tires by hand at the same speed one exact revolution while counting revolutions of he driveshaft. Just under 4 1/2 turns will indicate the 4.375:1 gears. Just a bit over 4 1/2 turns would indicate 4.625:1 or 4.636:1 gearing. If you have a late model, just a tick under 5 turns of the DS would indicate 4.90 gears.
LSD or open?
If you lost the sticker, get that jack back under the diff. Turn a wheel with the truck in neutral. If the other wheel spins in the opposite direction, you have an open diff. If it spins in the same direction, you likely have some sort of traction device - probably an LSD.
-
-
imma try some pbblaster for a week, and if that doesnt work its getting the hammer dropped and a new set of bolts.
-
any one have trouble taking the compression/strut rod off? cause im having a hellof time, i already broke a wrench a ratchet and a socket and the sucker is pretty much welded on. i soaked it and lube over night adding lube multiple times, heated the bolt, tried a breaker bar with two feet of cheater tube stuck on the end. and nada. so any idea?
-
yea i know about the motor thing, but how often are you gonna use that pump and fluid? not enough to get hot i think
-
couldnt you just fab up a bracket put a anouther pump on and run it off of that
-
hah idiots
-
the compression rod looks ok, doesnt look like its had any movement other than the usual. the bushings look alittle cracked on that and the UCA, and the boot for the balljoint is kaput. dont know how that happened its only 3 months old. ill try the lube thing, think WD-40 would be alright?
-
at 80mph its around 3100rpm and i get about 60 miles per quater tank. but then again i got a auto dunno if there is a big differnce on RPMs with autos and manual boxes. as for power, eh dont need to much but it would be nice. just yesterday i got truck doing what i would guess was 106mph, past the 100 mark crusing next to a IS300. good thing about texas is there are lots of open strait aways. had to try it
-
alright ive been searching and seaching but cant find out what the problem is or where its comming from. the sound is mostly comming from the right. when i turn but only where there is some body roll involved. some times it sounds off repetativly in the turn with or with out any change in the amount of turn. it leads me to suspect the suspension and mostly suspecting the compression rod. imma have to crawl under and take anouther gander at the set up but this heat is killer at times. so you guys have any ideas?
-
breaker bars work wonders if you got the musle for it. one time at work we had to use a 12 foot breaker bar to free a 4 inch fitting on a 2o foot long nitrogen tank. had 4 people dangling on the end and wouldnt budge. ended up using the 12ton forklift as musle
A Mechanics Tips and Tricks
in The Garage
Posted
lol do they ask you if its commercial use? the last few times ive taken them in i get asked that.