lgranch

Basically the engines are the same. Post 96 they increased the displacement, but the disign remained simliar. The real issue is carb vs injectors. That is where you need the proper computer program.

Depending on your location, your Pathy is not worth $5K total. Here in northern Ohio a good 92 with that mileage will sell for at most $2500. I agree with everyone else that a used engine is the way to go. $700 to $900 for a used motor is about right. I have found them as low as $500. On the other hand here in northern Ohio you can pick up a frame rusted 94 or 95 for $500 and have all the parts you every want. The big decision is who is doing the work. if you are replacing the motor that go do it. If you are paying for the motor to be replaced, you are looking at between 15 to 20 hours. At $65 per hour thats $1300 in labor. Plus the used motor now you are at $2K. Yes cheaper than $5K. But here is an idea. Sell the pathy as is for between $900 and $1100 to someone who will replace the motor themselves. If you can follow my logic this is like getting $3100 for the truck on a trade. Now I know that some guys on the forum may not agree, but if you are a driver not a gearhead this maybe the best choice. For the record. My son completely rebuilt a VG30E motor- bored out, new pistons, rings, bearing, oil pump, rebuilt heads, new gaskets, polished crank, new timing belt, turbo exhaust studs, etc - and the parts cost was $625. The motor is sitting in my garage waiting for spring to put it into my 91 pathy.

I agree. I ran with the belt off by a tooth for sometime ( Did not realize it at the time) The Pathy still goes down the road ok, but once it is fixed you can see the difference. By the way I had only one cam off by a tooth. the other cam was fine.

You have asked a difficult question. My son has just completed a rebuild. In a rebuild you change rods, bearings, bore the block, new pistons, rings, redo the heads, new oil pump, and replace all the exhaust studs. This job would cost you around $2500. You can obviously only have part of this done if you want and save money. Also you can replace the engine with a new japanese take out for around $1500, sometimes less. Then finally there is used engines for under $1000. So take you pick. Why do you want to have your engine rebuilt? what is wrong?

I do not understand, why are you concerned about aftermarket gaskets? If you use a good set there should be no problem . I use aftermarket all the time. One thing you need to know is that the head bolts are one time use. The bolt are "torque to yeild" type, which means you stress them to the yield point when they are torqued. You can reuse the bolts and they will rehold the intial torque, but the problem is that as the motor heats and cools it puts additional stress on the bolts and they just might crack. If one or two crack you can get the head to warp (aluminum you know) ( This is one area where I miss old Detroit Iron- cast heads). Ok Forum how many have used the head bolts and say its OK! -study-

Check the cover of the pickup inder the carpet in the rear. Many times the gasket fails and has fumes inside.

If you are willing to accept less than perfect, a Pathy in northeast Ohio will only cost about $2500 to $3000. If you are willing to do some work ,usually a new tranny, then the cost is under $1500.

Pathy trannys are very complex. There are a multitude of things that can go wrong and cause your problem. Electrical is definitely one of them. There is a speed sensor on the top of the tranny. If that goes bad there is no speed input to the computer, so it does not shift. While the problem can be internal with the clutches or a valve hanging up my guess is a bad sensor someplace. The tranny manual has a complete step by step diagnosis of the tranny and how to find the problem. Email me off the forum and I try to find the file to send you.

I am located in Cleveland. Write me offline on email and I'll give you details on parts.

Since there is no longer a parts section.... I have a VG30 block and heads and oils pumps, and crank. If anyone is interested make me an offer, it will go cheap, but atleast scrap metal price. The crank is only parts that needs work. The block has been cleaned and shot blasted.

Pull the motor and the tranny comes out leaving the T bar in place. I think the system of pulling the transfer case then the tranny next time. There will be a next time because I am looking for a donor pathy with a good frame and body. I am finding dozens with blown trannys in the NJ area. It is a bit far for me to go, but I still may do it.

I know you said that you will post pic, but what is the cost of this major reconstruction?? Is it less than buying a new Pathy from the south or southwest?

Yes it is a capacitor for the alternator (based on your description) the capacitor has a small mounting bracket and that is to go to a ground. The wire goes to the power lead. With this said however, you do not need this capacitor to have everything work OK. This is a RFI capacitor and most people believe that it does nothing. I am not convinced that it doesn't reduce RFI from the alternator, but I have never been able to prove my belief. Just leave it off for now.

This is what I am finding also here in the Cleveland area. All of the "junk" pathys have the frame rotted out. Here the used car dealers are selling them as good vehicles because no one notices that does not know Pathys. We have a frame shop that will weld the frame back together. My problem is getting a price before the job is completed, or knowing what is a fair price. I am not a welder with this type of skill so this is not a job I'm doing for myself.

I am saying WOW . Pull the motor do the exhaust and consider doing a P&P on the heads, and putting it all back in a weekend. You are a Superman

You have to give more details than just your post title. Why do you believe that the lifter is taking time to fill? What are the symtoms?

Consider just pulling the head. Yes it is work, but pulling the motor is more.

I just want to make sure I am correct. I can put a 91 VG30 and the tranny in a 95 right?? I have a chance to pick up a good looking 95 with a blown tranny for cheap. 88 You probably know for sure.

Most likely 88 is correct that it is a vacuum line. Remember that there are vacuum line all ove rhte engine and in places you may not see the first time you look. If the vacuum lines are ok, then the next probable cause is ignition system. Suppression wires last only about 10,000 miles before they start to fail. Now most of the time you can get 30K or morre before you notice the problem. I refer to suppresion wires because most Pathy's run with these. Since you did not indicate that the problem goes away when the engine gets warm, it is not likely moisture in the cap, but check for corrosion in the cap and rotor. Do not replace these parts with cheap parts. This area is worth spending the money. Finding good wires can be a problem so ask around. I believe 88 runs Taylors which are good. I run Accel and I am not overly pleased with them. Remember if you want to listen to an AM radio then use suppression wires. SO - Vacuum lines FIRST then ignition. When you figure it out let us know

Now that you established that you can fix things on your Pathy, with a little advice, I expect you to keep doing your own work. Just ask on the forum and someone will likely have the solution. :gossip:

First, the thread on changing the timing belt by 88 done a long time ago is excellent. It has pictures and everything. Second. the best way to hold an engine in place when removing a harmonic balancer bolt is to start the #1 cylinder on its compression stroke. Then feed a polypropylene rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. The engine will then rotate up compress th erope against the cylinder head and stop tight while you remove the bolt. Installation is reversed. Use a poly rope because it will not tear in the cylinder and will leave nothing behind.

There is another way to increase the power. Bore the motor out to 88 mm. However it is my guess that this add will not be noticed. But when you are in there, you port and polish the intake and exhaust, add headers, increase the mass air flow sensor, add a K&N air filter system, possible by new cams that will increase the HP. You can build a a nice motor with added HP. Then of course there is L&P performance that "builds" a turbo Pathy. After all it is only money. L&P Performance is hard to get a hold of if you were thinking you might go that route. I have been trying Phil for the past 2 weeks with no success. Good luck. The real questionis why do you think you need more power in your Pathy??? If you are building a drag Pathy that is one thing, but this forum is for off road. More torque I understand, more HP from the motor I am not sure I understand. The torque answer is gears and cams. Change the the cam and you can get a substantial torque boost.

On a 91 the bushing are two different sizes. AC however has the attitude that one size fits all. I was not as well versed about AC when I bought from them. I made the AC bushings fit and they worked fine, however it is alot of work to make them fit.

All I have to say is , when I sell a truck where are you guys!!. A 91 Pathy in the condition stated is $1100 tops in this area. In the spring when/if I replace the motor and tranny in my 91 with "student" rebuilt units, I'll be lucky to $1000 for it. I may be better off to sell the motor and tranny and junk the Pathy.

I donated my blown VG30E motor to a Tech School. They told me if I purchase the parts I can have it back when they are done. So i went to buy the new exhaust studs and I asked for the 300ZX Turbo studs. Well The parts lady gave me a hard time when I insisted on not the original studs for the Pathy. Her claim was that Nissan has discontinued the problem studs and replaced them with a new part number for the Pathfinder. When she hands me the parts ($2.90 each) the bag claims they are studs for the turbo VG30 motor. Why all the hard time??? Also the school was looking for the "oil galley" plugs. This is a small block term not a Nissan term. All the parts lady was coming up with was freeze plugs. Anyone know the proper Nissan language? These are the plugs in the block for the oil passage. They are not soft plugs and there is 4 of them.