94 Pathy Gary

Thanks for the tip. I am going to order a complete set of TREs and BJs and swap everything out 'on spec' Never thought about the CL... Maybe I should get a quote on that too. (Oh MY!) heh heh Cheers! Gary

Thanks Bro' ... So I'm looking at about 4 hours total. Just gotta get the boots. Cheers! Gary

No problem doing the work myself, assuming I can get the ^%^$% slide pins out without wrecking the carriers (torque members) My post was more of a whine along the lines of "for everything I fix, I find 2 more things wrong... wahhhh!" and looking for people with tips on getting seized slide pins out at the same time. Speaking of doing the work myself, anybody here change CV joint boots? How many hours are we talking? Cheers! Gary

I was under the front end today trying to fix the pull that happens when I hit the brakes: Found 2 slide pins (both driver's side) seized, and I DO mean seized and that's where they still are: Seized in place. No amount of hammering and twisting budged those puppies... May have to take it to a pro Anyway, while I was under there I found both outer CV joint boots were completely trashed. This is gonna cost me a buck or two, I think.... Then, a little later, I was under the hood to double-check the fluids after the timing belt (and everything else) change... Something didn't look right. Aha: The A/C belt and its tensioner were GONE. History. Gonzo. No longer to be found. I wonder what's next.... Cheers! Gary P.S. Any tips for getting the $^%#%$^%$ slide pins out of the torque member (the cylinder body carrier thingy) ??? How about CV boot estimates?

So ya got her back on the road... Good on ya, Slick! It's a bee-otch sometimes to do your own work but doing so brings a lot of pride (not to mention a fatter wallet!) Yeah, those bushings can be a royal PITA, huh? No worries, though: You showed it who's boss! Cheers! Gary

Everybody's a critic! Tell me: What's 105,000 miles in Kilometers? Hint: the answer will have a "1", a "6", and a "0" Cheers! Gary

UPDATE: It took about 7 hours total and she's running like a champ again. Things I learned: - Automotive design engineers are EVIL! - Nissan says to change these belts at 160K for a good reason! Mine had 182K on it and had worn/stretched enough to jump a tooth. The ticking sound I was hearing was indeed valve/piston intereference and I doubt that I was very far away from a catastrophic failure. - Don't believe everything you read (alignment marks) and don't think that a FSM will tell you everything you need to know... Some of the "instructions" are pretty vague. - Have lots of extra hose clamps available before you start: The old ones WILL snap, twist, distort, and just generally ruin your day. - Don't sweat alignment marks, tooth counting, etc., etc., if you're replacing the timing belt with a Nissan OEM one: They make it idiot proof. I wish I had had a look at the belt before starting this thread! Last, I'll confirm that it's a good idea to change out anything and everything you think may need changing: This is, beyond a shadow of a doubt, the bitchiest job I've ever done on a vehicle. (And I was an apprentice mechanic in an engine/trasmission shop when I was a kid.) Along with the timing belt/tensioner, change the cam seals, front seal, water pump, thermostat, even the oil pump if you like.... I'm not looking forward to this job again. In fact, next time I'll pull the engine: It'll be easier! Cheers! Gary

I'm guessing that it's not. I have the FSM, Chilton's and Hayne's and all of them show a notch in the oil pump housing, but I'll be damned if I can find a notch on my Pathy.... Weird Cheers! Gary

Exactly what I'm gonna do, Bro' Thanks, Cheers! Gary (I've read that you can just use the first timing mark (extreme left one) on the pulley too, but I dunno how accurate that is.

Doh! Old belt is already off. I wonder how it's aligned initially (at the factory) or after a belt breaks. Anyway, I'll quit looking for a mark and just ensure #1 is TDC and line up the cam marks (they're both fine) Thanks guys (even if that's NOT what I wanted to hear! (grin)) Cheers! Gary

Hey guys and gals! I tore into the timing belt change today... Spent the first little while cursing automotive design engineers: It took just over an hour to get the $@#$%#%$# radiator and fan shroud out! Also broke *every* bolt holding the lower engine cover on. Grrrrrrrrr.... Anyway, 2 hours later and I have her all stripped down but I can't for the life of me find the alignment mark for the crank sprocket... I can see the dot on the sprocket itself just fine but cannot find the corresponding mark on the engine. I have the Nissan service manual and that's no help, and I looked at the pictures posted by Jim Bennett (http://www.jimbennett.net/timing_belt_replacement.htm) but I still can't find it. Anybody? Oh yeah, it's a 1994 Pathy. Good (?) news is that it *looks* like the belt may have jumped a tooth (eyeballing where I think the alignment mark *should* be) so this timing belt change may take care of the annoying ticking sound I can't seem to track down... :cool2: Anyway, any advice on locating the elusive alignment mark will be much appreciated. The rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire terminal so we're close! Thanks, Cheers! Gary

Follow the bolt sequence (both on and off) and avoid the temptation to clean the pistons while you have the top-end off! Many an engine has been ruined because a well-intentioned backyard mechanic has tried to clean the pistons with a wire brush.... Have fun: I've done a billion of these Cheers! Gary (Hey, have you got the Service Manual?)

Hey all, My '94 came with a non-Bose AM/FM/Cassette and I added a 6-pack CD changer with an FM modulator. I'd like to take out the changer and swap out the cassette deck for an AM/FM/CD-player, and I often see Nissan CD-decks on ebay. I'm wondering, though, which model years are a direct swap (harness plugs) for the '94? I'd rather not have to chop off my connectors and re-wire if I don't have to. Anybody have any idea? Thanks, Cheers! Gary

Mine did this for the first time yesterday... It was jumping around from 0 to Redline, no matter what the actual RPM was. Funnily enough, the next time I started the truck it was fine. Then a little while later it started again. Today it was fine. I'm thinking it's a bad wire, and prefer NOT to think it's the tach itself! I'll post as soon as I fix it. Cheers! Gary

I've never been able to shift mine into 4Hi while moving.... The transfer case has always protested loudly enough that I abort the attempted shift, stop, and do it while in Park or Neutral. I came to the conclusion that Nissan's "Shift on the Fly" (at least in my model year) sucks. Cheers! Gary

Had the dealer replace my door lock mecanisms twice under warranty, but now it's on my dime: I bought a remote lock kit (with remote starter) and haven't used the key since. IMHO, remote locks are the way to go because the (mid-90's ?) lock mechanisms are pure sh*te. I'm thinking hard about fabricating my own, though (thanks for the idea DSM_guy!) Cheers! Gary

I just ran some numbers based on the average mileage I'm getting on my 94 Pathfinder and came up with: 13.65 MPG (US) 16.12 MPG (Imperial) Sucks, either way I look at it Cheers! Gary

There is indeed a sensor. It checks for temperature variance when the EGR circuit is energized. If the sensor detects a rise in temperature (meaning exhaust gas is entering the intake) all is well. If there's no rise in temp (meaning exhaust gas is not entering the intake) the Check Engine light is illuminated. The sensor is located just inside the EGR valve housing (on the intake side) I haven't checked to see what happens if you just ground the sensor lead yet. There are 2 possibilities; 1 - Nothing will happen; or 2: The CE light will come on because there is a (false indication of a) temperature rise when the EGR system is not energized (at idle or full throttle, when warmed up) I should check that out one of these days... Cheers! Gary

Yeah, I'll give 'er a go. Thanks everybody. The only thing I was worried about (certainly not the price) is whether the old axiom "you get what you pay for" applies here: I'd hate to spend a weekend and bash a few knuckles doing a timing belt/waterpump only to have the pump fail on me in a couple of months. What the hell: I need practice tearing the front-end down anyway Cheers! Gary

kmgar99, That info would be awesome, thanks. I imagine he'll know a couple fo things about building a Vortec, not to mention whether or not there's something REALLY BAD about dropping one in a Pathfinder. Cheers! Gary

Thanks Vsicks, So I'm gathering that there isn't some generally known to everyone (except me!) reason to stay away from this. Wish me luck Thanks again, Cheers! Gary

>>> HERE <<< ya go! Cheers! Gary

Hey all, Before I make a potential mistake, and idea why water pumps (which see for $100-ish retail) that are listed on ebay for $15 or so aren't selling? Here's an example I'm watching: >>> ebay Water Pump <<< It's been on for 4 days now with no takers.... Is there anything to be aware of before clicking the "buy it" button? Thanks! Gary

Wow: I'll say! That's more than anybody could ask for. Cheers! Gary

Here ya go.... If you can view it with your browser, cool. If not, just download it and open it with Acrobat reader: Instrment Panel Diagram From Service Manual It's dead-easy to do, just gotta get all the screws. Cheers! Gary