Filthy Luker
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Posts posted by Filthy Luker
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Is your truck auto or mantran? I have an autotragic transmission in my truck and I am confused as to what the hell to do about header situation. My whole exhaust at this point just ticks at the front and lies on the frame crossmembers and rattles to crap as I am driving.
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I really want one as well, but after talking to somebody that has it installed, i don't know anymore. Appearantly it just shakes and oscillates wildly and can't really settle to give you off an accurate reading.
I'll still probably get one some day and try it out. If it doesn't work i'll just sell it to some mallcrawler or something.
EDIT: actually I have a standing order with one of the dudes in Japan that is looking for one of those for me. He'll send one when he finds a complete one. He had one with buttons missing i told him to look harder.
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Dowser, You Idiot, Your so Stupid I can't believe your still alive, I don't think I've ever met someone as stupid as yourself. If there was an award of stupidity, you'd be the consecutive winner since birth. The questions you ask are so stupid I cant bear to read them anymore. Just LEAVE you moron.
Dowser's Arch Nemesis
Hahahahahahahahahahahahaahahahahhahahahah
BEST POST EVER.
(PS. Dowser kicks ass!)
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20"s not large enough? :confused: Adding a grille?
Chu gotta call Xibit to pimp yo ride with some 24" Giovanna spinners mang. sly
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If it's the t-case, then it's gotta be either the bearings or the gears inside.
Bearings are not expensive, and if it's the gears, then most innards should be interchangable with all different TX-10s out there, just verify part numbers with your local dealer.
Just for reference, I picked up a used TX-10 last spring for $75 CDN which is like $55-60 American Dollars.
You might want to try places that import Japanese front clips, engines and transmissions. Most Nissan trannies would come from overseas with T-cases mated to them, so if you throw $100 at them they'd probably take it, as they'd still sell the transmission to somebody else for the same amount as if it had the T-case attached.
IE: ask ricers about JDM import places.
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Go to Home Depot and get some EPDM lining for outdoor ponds (it's the stuff you lay down on the hole in the ground to make water ponds). They're sold at something like $12 a foot here in Canada (and that's something like 18 feet wide). EPDM is incredibly tough, flexible, and won't age from sun, water, temperatures, etc...
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Well if by your question you mean "what do you mean by that?", then simply look at what your CV looks like, and think how nicely it would explode when you get them to bind under power.
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Is there a GPS solution that works on Macs?
EDIT: LOL at the IP addresses they provide in the links.
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Maybe it has something to do with the driveshaft. Check if your u-joints are not seizing.
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Why don't you use a razor or something and cut down the stock ones if you really need to. Besides don't you like your CV joints and downtravel?
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Up until NASCAR completely screwed up Speedvision's programming I used to watch Bathurst when they had it on. These days, instead of motorcycle tuesdays, and airplane wendesdays, they have poker tournaments featuring NASCAR drivers, and cooking shows featuring their wives... I am impatiently waiting to see just how castrated the Dakar coverage will be to make room for Busch Drivers spelling bee this winter and if need arises I'll have to go postal on my TV remote.
Hurrrrr...
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I think the only options for the front are Lincoln and ARB.
PS. My buddy just called me right now to tell me he was just testing his Lincoln locker in his Xterra. He loves it. Made me think twice about my ARB *gulp*
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Just touch it up with some rust paint, and make sure the actual receiver has a lot of grease in it. Makes a mess of the towbar when you pull it out, but it will make the hitch last a lifetime.
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Well.. they actually weld on two machined steel collars with 4 spherical bearings pressed in. Not only you'd have to find a welder, but most likely a machine shop to do equivalent job on the centerlink.
I was referring to the idler and pitman arms upgrades that i thought were a tad too expensive at $75 each.
My friend just got the proper Spencer Low Racing steering upgrade for his Xterra and that looks like the cat's ass. I can't stress how amazed I am by the high quality of service and worksmanship that they provided.
They even sent him a free idler arm brace as the first one they sent him was for a truck with a factory tow hook. They also sent him the entire system OVERNIGHT to Canada.
It's a shame they don't do much for the WD21s.
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That's badass!
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The L&P centerlink with my own custom gusseted pitman and idler arms (pay $150 for two chunks of steel welded on from L&P are you freakin' kiddin me?!) has been on my truck for a few months and some fairly heavy off wheeling trips. So far it's great, and I love the fact that if it indeed does wear out, bearings and bolts are cheap to replace from your local fastener/bearing place. I seemed to have really really lucked out on the turnaround time for my centerlink, but I personally know people that had their truck on jackstands for more than a month being jerked around by L&P.
Calmini is a slick setup but every single person that I know that actually uses it off road has had major issues with their idler arm bearings wearing out at an alarming rate. Again Calmini customer support leaves a lot to be desired, many of my friends are getting very very upset by the lack of communication and in a few cases, blatantly false statements and lies about the durability of their product.
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LOL.. From now on I am gonna run a sig that says: aired down to 8 psi. -bounce-
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Well.. then lowering tire pressures would constitute a mod as well.. no? sly
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Why is cranking T-Bars considered a mod exactly?
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Yes it is correct.
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First do a tuneup. Get new plugs, wires, rotor, cap, air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve. None of those things are very expensive but all together they go a long way to help your engine run smoothly. How long has it's been since you replaced the oxygen sensor. Also check if your MAF sensor is dirty. I have been told that there is a common problem with the ground wire from the MAF sensor rusting out (I think it's the middle one on the three wire plug). Common solution is to just run a nice shiny new ground wire and grounding it properly in the engine bay.
EDIT: Ah yes... just as per below post, make sure you have your tires inflated properly.
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From what I remember reading a few years ago, the hand throttle got stuck open.
Skrilla's Exhaust Thread
in The Garage
Posted
Hmm.... so you got a mantran then I take it?
I wonder if there is somebody with an autotragic that has a header installed that would be willing to measure just how low the bloody thing hangs. I am about to install a set of skidplates so i am worried about the clearance with exhaust.