tmorgan4
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Posts posted by tmorgan4
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When I was shopping for mine the beginning of last summer K&N hadn't come out with one yet, but may have one out now. The only true CAI I've seen is the Stillen which mounts in the wheel well, but would easily get soaked in the conditions I drive.
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Just realized that someone decided to hit the side of my car last night. Only the lense is cracked on the corner light but the bulb and housing are fine. Anyone if just the lense can be replaced or if the whole thing is trashed? The piece under the headlight and grill are broken as well. -thnkboutit-
Thanks!
Tyler
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Nice to see you over on this board as well. I've been looking for some decent junkyards with some Nissans around. Anywhere you can reccomend in Denver?
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The only thing that the price of the lift won't include is the 2" lift springs that are only needed in the rear. The main purpose is to gain lift (obviously) while keeping the CV angles at stock height rather than at a severe angle than can tear the boots and ruin the axles.
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Not sure what happened with the intake plate being "wrong" when it arrived...they just sent me an "adapter" that you can buy at autozone or places that is blank and you drill your own holes. I have pictures on the camera that I'll upload tonight.
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Dan, I figured you'd be the first one to want one!
So far it seems like the testers have had good luck with everything and I haven't heard of any problems so far. It's been test fitted on the 96-99 and 99.5+ versions and works with both. So far the consensus is the front skid plate would need to be modified, mainly just by cutting it in half and adding a few more inches of steel onto it. It seems like some people are scared away by the fact that it's almost too big, but it's not near as huge as I expected it to be. Here's a picture of Colopathy's on AC's board for those of you who haven't seen it. Tires are 33x12.5's. The 4.5" lift is on in front, but the rear only has the blocks in with stock springs instead of AC 2" springs.
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Just posted this over on AC too. I'm trying to find out whether this is something I should pursue or not.
As of right now I'm in the process of trying to work something out with Keith (system-f). I'm posting this in a new thread since almost no one is responding (I've gotten 2 so far) even though quite a few people initially said they would.
This forum has been slow lately, especially this section. Hopefully it'll speed back up.
So the question is, if I were to organize the production of these 4 1/2" drop bracket lifts, how many people would buy them? Prices would be somewhere between probably $350-$550 which includes everything you need including the steering upgrades. What do you guys think a fair price would be?
If I get many responses I'll go ahead with production over the next few months (granted I work everything out with Keith) and have them ready hopefully by summer, if not earlier. I also need opinions on whether or not it's worth it to everyone to pay a few $$$ more to have them cut using a plasma cutter as opposed to an Oxy/acetalyne torch.
Appreciate the responses, PM me with any questions.
Tyler
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Pezzy,
How did you bend the entire subframe?
Congrats to Vengeful as well, can't wait for the story and pictures.
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I've got one that I've had for a few months and has worked pretty well aside from a few defects. First off, Weapon-R has a few of the hose connectors on the wrong side and forced the tubes to get pinched shut when the hood was closed, and wouldn't let the engine start. I just got some longer tubing, and then accidently broke the small, extremely brittle connector off on accident. Fixed it with some stuff I had around here and has worked well ever since. Sounds pretty good too. I'll get some pictures if you'd like, it looks quite a bit different than the ones on their site. Also, I got mine on ebay for a few $$$ less than the website your looking at.
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The reason the light is coming on is since the button is bad and senses that the door is coming "open" when you hit a bump or take a turn. The reason your horn no longer honks when you lock it with the keyless entry is the car thinks that a door is open, the one with the bad button. All the door still lock, and I'd imagine that the door with the bad sensor is still getting locked as well. Mine refuses to honk when you lock the car and a door isn't shut all the way, but the lights still flash. As soon as the sensor gets fixed all should be well.
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I'm getting 13-14 after a tuneup -thnkboutit-
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I did. It's somewhere on here in the r50 forum. Now that I think about it, I can't remember if it's a 40 or a 50 series. Whatever it says in the thread is correct.
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Thanks guys I'll take it back out tomorrow then. I took a good look around and didn't see anything, but I think there has to be.
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Ever since the winter I've had a noise that's gotten worse everyday (happens more often) that comes from the motor under the dash on the passenger side. Usually if I have it on setting I it's less likely to occur, but will come on and off when I hit bumps in the road. Almost sounds like something is rubbing against the blades of the fan. I took the motor out awhile ago, and its silent when it's not installed, but as soon as you put it back in I get the noise again. It only occurs when the heat is on, and I have no other ideas as to what it could be. Thanks guys!
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For some reason I didn't even think of using heli coils. We use them all the time in the ski shop I work at when the binding holes are stripped out. Anyone know the size and thread pattern for these holes?
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I'm in need of some help. I'm building a bumper for my r50, and after putting on and taking out the bolts where the factory tow hooks attach are stripped. The bolts are a little messed up so I'll be getting new ones tomorrow, but I need idea about what to do with the holes. Here's my ideas so far.
1) Try threading a tap of the same size and thread pattern through, hoping there's enough left for it to make new threads (doubtful!)
2) Drill the holes out and tap 1 size larger
3) Drill the holes out completely, and attach with a bolt and a nut on the other side. It seems like there's already a nut attached there when I felt around, but it's welded on and the threads are gone. The backside is not easily accessible so it's the last method I'd like to try.
Not sure what to do, any help or better ideas are appreciated!
Also, does anyone know which bolts go where in these holes? I just noticed there are 2 different types: 1 with threads all the way to the end, and the other with threads about 5mm from the end. Maybe I just ruined the threads since I can see the outline of them except it's completely flat.... -thnkboutit-
Tyler
PS - It's these bad boys right here! (on both sides!)
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Whats the gauge on that thing used for? :idea:
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I'd like to know more about this too. Any other pictures?
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Does yours have a seperate tank/output gauge?
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Dean, did your rear bumper or hitch scrape in the last pic?
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I've seen the stuff at local hardware stores, maybe even Home Depot.
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How long would you expect one of those tanks to last with fairly high powered air tools like an air ratchet or impact wrench? I'm looking for an alternative to purchasing an air compressor for the garage that can crank out 10CFM if I could do the ocassional use with a tank in the back. The one im looking at I assume is 15lb's since it claims 50% more air than that 10lb tank.
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Take out your glovebox and there's a space behind there. I have a diagram somewhere, I'll see if I can find it. Mine didn't have one, but it had a space to add one which I've been meaning to do.
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If you have time, let the engine run for awhile at high rpms to burn off as much of the gas as you have time to do. It would take quite awhile to empty the whole tank, but I would think the less you have the better the outcome might be.
Need to ask a favor of D21 owner
in General Forums
Posted · Edited by tmorgan4
Over on AC I was just reminded the D21's and R50's use the same rear axle (duh sssh ) while I was looking at the ad for the jeep springs used in pathfinders. Could anyone with a D21 (can't remember which model they're from) take a picture of the top and bottom springs perches? If they could be used in an r50 as well it could be huge. My email is tmorgan4@frii.com or just post it here.
Thanks a TON in advance! :bow:
Tyler