Jump to content

NavyP503

Members
  • Posts

    89
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by NavyP503

  1. It would be 4^8= 65,536 combinations. But i'm sure some are not used as in, all 8 positions with the same wafer, so it would be less.

     

    The 8*7*6.... is the number of combinations you can have with 8 distinct objects.

  2. I had the same thing happen to my '91. Replacement harness was $75 and they weren't even sure it was the right one. I just cut out the melted wire, spliced in new wire and put new wire loom on it.

  3. To fix the rattling I pulled the speedometer out of the cluster and was able to get the offending gear out of the speedometer, it meant my trip meters wouldn't work at all. If that's what is causing your odometer problem too it should fix that. Sorry I don't have a picture of the internals, but this is the gear that connects the odometer to the tripmeters.

     

    5665569343_37b704b9f4.jpg

    IMG_0750 by josh42_98, on Flickr

  4. The speedo on my '91 had the trip meters fail because of the gear that links the odometer to the trip meters has a little plastic clip that holds it in place that broke. My odometer still logged correct mileage though. Maybe that gear is being bound some how and preventing the odometer from reading correctly as well. The speedometer isn't too difficult to remove from the cluster, you can at least get a look at all the gearing to see if anything is out of whack or missing teeth.

  5. I bet it's the same as my '91, on the latch for the rear hatch there is a switch that gets pushed back when the door is closed. Over time it doesn't push back far enough making the door think it is always open. This means the light will stay on no matter if the light switch is in the 'ON' or 'Door' position. If the rear light only turns on when the rear hatch is open, it sounds like the switch in the latch works. If the light doesn't turn on when the switch is moved to the 'ON' position it sounds like switch on the light itself is messed up. Here's a picture of the switch on the latch. That black lead attaches to a tab at the bottom of that spring, grounding the circuit to turn the light on.

    5644092728_ce43f50d20.jpg

    IMG_3414 by josh42_98, on Flickr

  6. Stock '91 with 31" I average 18, 24 on the high side (love coming down from the mountains ) and about 14 on a bad day (going up the mountain). Plain old city driving is right at 18mpg.

  7. Thought I would give an update on the Pathy after a couple years of tinkering. I've fixed most of the issues it had when I first bought it. New radio and speakers, dome lights work, a lot of interior pieces replaced. Some new Warn manual hubs, clutch operating and master cylinder as well as lower hose. Fixed the starter issues with a new solenoid. Lately I've added a spoiler, brush guard and driving lights, as well as relaying the headlights. I can tell a difference in the brightness, but the pictures don't do it justice. I'm still having issues with the back up lights. I've replaced the switch and tested the wiring, whatever pushes the switch in inside the transmission must be broken.

     

    Before

    003oyh.jpg

     

    After

    0052d.jpg

     

    With Driving Lights (I still need to adjust them)

    0062mu.jpg

     

    004oqr.jpg

     

    I'm also ordering a 4pin weatherproof connector to clean up the driving light wiring.

×
×
  • Create New...