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Mookie

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Posts posted by Mookie

  1. It looks like aren't using an idler arm brace? That would solve most if not all of your movement. With out the brace, even 31's will eat Idler arms when wheeling.

     

    Using the grade 9 bolt in place of the shaft, you are moving around your weak spot. Maybe not be best to do when it comes to steering? If you continue to use the bolt and then beef up the mounting plate, it could work, but then you might be transferring to another weak spot and could find yourself sleeving the frame because the bolts holding on plate are pulling, etc, etc.

     

    I'd put the stock shaft back in, use the brace and monitor the movement.

     

    I know the Moog arms bend quite easily. I bent mine doing a snatch recovery out of a ditch.

  2. I thought that it might be the TPS as stated in a previous thread, but after pulling the codes I am getting code:33, Heated O2 Sensor.

    I've had 02 sensors crap out before, but I've never had it only seem bad at cruising speed. It normally makes you have a hard time accelerating and idles like poop too.

    Any input from you guys would be great.

    Thanks

    Chris

     

     

    As in my previous posts, this is what happened to me. Sometimes it would get so bad that coming off the off ramp, I'd be back firing, and then it would just stall out. Headwinds and hills were challenging. It was the 02 sensor.

  3. When my 02 sensor was bad, highway driving would do the same. I could drive for a bit, and then it would start bucking, surging, etc. Basically missing.

    Once I slowed down as I coming off the highway or to a stop, it would die. Turning the key off and then back on again to start the engine would usually fix it for a few more miles. If not, I'd have to sit for a few minutes.

     

    Mine didn't throw any codes for it, but have you checked just in case?

  4. Just adding on to '88s' comments - Some people even pry the seal out of the retainer as they say removing the retainer disturbs the seal/gasket around the pan. I removed it all including dropping the pan as I had to replace all my leaking gaskets.

  5. Well, I really don't know anything about that. Anyone have a link to some pics or someone provides some more info on that subject? I am definately interested on something with little fab work that is easy. and $2k is about the top that I would be willing top spend on this whole thing. Thanks for all the help so far.... I've been looking at D44's on ebay now as well and my dad likes the idea... so this maybe something I actually get to do :jig: I don't know what I'd do without this site.... THANKS ALL!!!!

     

     

    Check other sites like Ronin.com, nissan4wheelers.com for more info on Sas's. Search these sites as they have a ton of info. Probably keep you pretty busy. You will most likely find out you will change your mind a 1000 times on how you want to do your build. :D - but the more you learn, the more you will dial in your needs.

     

    There are a lot of misc items that will nickel and dime you through out the project. Brake lines, new front Drive shafts, shocks, rebuild kits, new tools, shocks, and a ton of other stuff. Just something to keep in mind for the budget minded person.

  6. With a 79 jeep 2 door wagon, (assuming all parts needed are in good condition) would I have just about everything I need? Or would there still be a LOT of extra's? It has D44's front and rear, but I would just do the front for now.

     

    (Don't know how to post a pic without a website or I'd show it to you)

     

     

    The '79 will most likely be drivers side drop. *Edit* - Oops, I meant to say passenger side drop . Sorry 'bout that.

     

    There will be more extras as you go along. Are you using part of the D21 kit, or having someone do the fabbing?

  7. Very lucky indeed! This happened on the Calgary Jeep Association New Years day run here in the Waiparous area.

     

    Unfortunately, a few months earlier we had a similar accident where a a small tree limb went through the windshield, through the passenger seat and impaled a little girl who was riding in the back seat. Luckily her father (the driver) was trained in first aid and she has since recovered.

  8. LOL the aerodynamics on the WD21 is a joke, I was all over the road especially when behind those 18 wheelers. I'm sorry but Pathfinder's don't top the charts when it comes to comfort, heck it's a truck frame.

     

    I love my Pathy but if I had to drive from NY to Florida again it would be in a Cadillac CTS or something.

     

    Heavy cross winds I'd notice. When the Pathy was stock, I thought it was quite a comfy highway cruiser. Next to none steering correction, tracked great, quiet and room to sleep at the rest stops. This was back in the day of 2 Kayaks, 2 Mountain bikes and tons of gear on the roof.

     

    I've driven from Alberta to Ontario twice in the Pathy. Once stock when we first got it 8 years ago, and the other back in the fall Sas'd.

     

    With the Sas, most recently was down to Moab and back in May, 2200 miles round trip 4 days total of relaxing driving. Then out to Ontario to Adventure weekend, 2000 miles one way. On the way back I went through Iowa to visit so that was 2500 miles on the way back to Calgary. That was about 8 days of total driving to Ontario and back.

  9. is replacing the master cylinder difficult? im at school and have limited tools. also can i get one at an autoparts store easily?

     

    It's a fairly easy job and only requires a few hand tools.

     

    The one step that needs to be done is bench bleeding the new master cylinder to get all the air out of it. Having an vice will make this process very easy as you need to have the cylinder securely mounted so you can push the push rod in. Usually the new cylinder will come with plugs and tubes to bench bleed. You can get one from an auto parts store. There will be a core charge too most likely.

     

    Then you bleed the rest of the system after the new master has been installed. You will have to have help with this or use a self bleed method using a bottle and tube or gravity bleed the system.

  10. Holy @!*% yeah! Forgot about JB. Thanks 88 I think I'll use that and let the truck sit inside overnight and cure. Might save me the $295 CDN that NApa quoted me for a rad. :aok:

     

    Do you have Parts Source or AutoValue in your area? I got mine for just a little over a 100.00 at Parts Source (Canadian Tire).

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