Mookie
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Posts posted by Mookie
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Yeah, pretty much...
Fixed that for you...
Thanks Mookie and 88Pathoffroad for your contributions.
B
Now who would bring this back up after 4 months? ;-) Shows you how much I'm on these days. heheheheh.
It was a great time - glad the board has the current staff that do such a great job.
I was on Mr Jims very first forum. Was that in 2000-2001? Or as early as 1999? I don't know if anyone else on that board is still here? '88 and Simon? It's great to see it today. The first forum was just a message list.
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... I've had great luck with my 63" chevy springs, although I'm not sure there's room for them in the back of a pathfinder frame...
Plenty of room for 63's. Shackles may be to far back for some people. However, try and keep the rear stock as there is so much potential with it.
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Such sad news. My thoughts to Jared's family and friends.
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Welcome!
Guess you'll have to come to the Calgary Nissan 4x4 annual Jamboree this August!
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There was a thread on AC years ago about similar noise issues. The guy finally cured it by retorquing the bolts on the front crossmember (right under the sway bar mounts). Could give that a shot.
Popping usually means what Grim posted.
Should be a picture, circle and arrows if ircc (if you can find the post)
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Turns out the fuse wire had broke in half inside the insulation, spliced it and it started righ up. Going to order a new link on Monday, but for now I can at least move the truck again.
Good to hear!
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So this last weekend was pretty busy. Got a 3" body lift installed and waiting on delivery of a Kennisaw front bumper so that I can install that as well.
Question is... with the Kennisaw bumper, I opted to not install new blinkers in the bumper and figured that I would convert the front marker light into a combination marker light/blinker. Has anyone else done this conversion? Are there any simple tricks I should know prior to going down to NAPA to try and find a bulb/socket combination that will work.
Hello,
Yup, that conversion has been done by quite a few. I'm almost certain there is a write up on this site. Do a search and hopefully that will shed some info for you.
I used an 1157 socket (replaced the stock one) and used a dremel to make the socket fit. There is a much easier way to do this - and the write up iirc is the way to do it.
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Nope, didn't fix it.
Thinking maybe crank angle sensor now...?
That's what happened to mine also. Died, was able to start for 1 second and then nothing. But I was able to grab the c.a. sensor code.
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Do us a favor to help us help you. If you can, take some in depth pictures of the suspension. Maybe someone will notice something out of whack or be able to give a few pointers. I can't tell from the pictures how things are set up and the quality of the components like GPG said.
While you are at it, take good pics of the front end geometry. Death wobble usually comes from the front end. What is the castor set at? Some closer pics of the drag link and tierod in relation to each other would help also.
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thanks man. awsome info for me. that takes care of my rear if they go good has anyone seen this on a nissa? the 63" chevy springs?
Chevy 63's on a Pathy - gives you an idea for your HB.
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OK fixed the year thing, didn't realize i missed it. Anyways, MAF cleaning didn't seem to change anything. Should I be looking at the O2 sensor? Can you clean an O2 sensor? I also thought of maybe running a fuel injector cleaner through it. Anyone think injector cleaners are worth it? Oh, and the surging is very slight, not very noticeable.
It does sound like the 02 sensor. Surging or misfire under load, against headwinds, especially after the engine is up to temp.
I don't think you can clean them, but you can test the voltage I believe. I think...someone might chime in about this.
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....aaaaaand back to our topic please... :-)
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I hate to say it, but if you're looking to do a serious offroader for dirt cheap you should look into a jeep or other domestic...they're so commonly used that there a plethora of aftermarket parts and many types of vehicles can be picked up for quite cheap. Even a WD21 or older toy would be a lot cheaper than this project. Just remember you get what you pay for, so cheap rigs are more liable to break (unless you get a great deal on something good), and often you get less than you pay for when you're paying a shop to fab one off parts for a unique vehicle.
But what can I say...I'm an accounting student, I just see all the $$s instead of getting excited about the potential
That's my take too. One can get caught up in the numbers of it all. Focusing on a set price, set budget. But...with a custom project like this, there are a 1000 things that will come up that will nickel and dime you to death. Even just buying small tools/sockets/supplies that you don't have (like the big ass socket/wrenches to get the nut off the upper ball joint) all add up in the long run. Adapters for your brake lines, maybe the drive shaft angles aren't working out, so now you have to cut and rotate your ears on your front diff to get the pinion angles correct. Lots of unknowns. Lot's of details that you can't really put a price on until you get the project to a point of testing. Then after everything is all said and done, there is usually a year or two or three or four of debugging/improvements that are done once you start to wheel it . Of course it's all subjective so one can build and leave it alone and wheel without ever doing another thing to the truck.
Another thing to keep in mind. The more your rig is modified, the more maintenance and attention to details of it will always be needed. So there is a time investment that always seems to be lurking around.
Of course, an R50 project like this is something I think most of us look forward to watching the build up. Something new, something not run of the mill. Just giving a heads up on some stuff that sometimes doesn't get thought about.
Good luck!!
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So do super duty Fords...and he was saying coils in the back and leafs up front would be off, and I agree, it would be weird, but I would like to see somebody do it...
Leafs up front and coils in the rear is done quite a bit with Sas'd rigs. I mainly see it on the domestics, but there has been a Pathy or two with leafs up front and coils in the rear.
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Happy Canada day!!!!!
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*snicker*
Sorry Balmer, but you put your foot pretty deep in your mouth on that one.
It's all good though...
B
Yah, all good! Just messing around there...having a little fun.
Where is my build info...on the board somewhere? I will have to check. Some info in my sig Balmer.
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The Pathfinder already has a link/coil rear end. Most, if not all of the platforms that might work are leaf sprung front and rear. Pathfinders benefit most from the flex that link suspension offers. Do a SAS and link the front - DON'T DO A LEAF SPRING CONVERSION!!! If you want a leaf sprung rig just forget the pathfinder all together and drive a less capable rig.
Yeah, leaf springs suck for flex and even worse, your rig is less capable than stock! Yeah sure, the front end is now stronger than the stock ifs, but really, who ya foolin' with that Dana Corp crap. Those dudes that go to Moab with leaf sprung trucks probably get laughed at.
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I'm still new on this off road thing so I still don't know of any yet.. Hopefully
I'll be able to meet some if there is.
Hi from Calgary! Check out the Nissan and Import club cn4xc.com if you haven't already.
Join us for a wing night.
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Don't rule out the crank angle sensor. It usually goes when driving and the engine suddenly quits. Turns over fine, but no catch. Sometimes a little sputter, but that's it. It usually throws a code though.
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Welcome!
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Welcome!
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You will drowned your ECM/CPU or whatever you want to call it long before you need a snorkel in a pathfinder inless you have relocated it wont you?
The majority of most engine drowning occurs when you first "drop in" the river, deep puddle, etc. You nose down and that's all it takes. Doesn't have to deep.
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Check you center link for play. When you have a bad center link and put it in 4wd or just have the hubs locked, you will have no steering especially driving in a straight line. No matter what type of steering correction you do, you'll end up hitting something...
87 twin turbo sas 1 inch lift...
in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
Posted
Very, very nice Ryan!