ventec

You may want to check all your solder points on the backof the cluster just like the Day Time Running Light Modules, rugh rodes tend to cause the solder points on the circuit boards to break loose and loose contact, I have the same problem and plan to tear into it soon as well. Kyle. be sure to check you powervalves in your intake manifold. Loc-tite them

This was in my R50 (2002 pathy) I've owned it for almost a year now and have found all the problems with these vehicles the hard way. So i thought i would help out. The DRL on mine is right next to the batter on the fender side, pull the batery and there it is. The problem with the DRL started affecting my low beam on the driverside going out and the High beam was fine. next it was the passengers side. As one person said it is the vibration that kills these components. My next job is to pull apart the gauge cluster and check the solder points my gauge light are flickering on and off.

Just thought I would post a quick fix on the Day Time Running Light (DRL) Module. Recently my driver's side headlight would not work when i switched to low beams only, everything else worked fine. I went in and grounded the bulb for a quick easy fix. that worked for a few weeks until the other head light started to not work. I grounded that one and it stated to blow fuses. So I decided to open up the DRL module and inspect it. The Fix: Tools: 10 mm wrench Soldering Iron Solder with fluw electrical Flash light std screwdriver I pulled the DRL module and opened it up. After sufing the net a few site mentioned loose solder points on the circuit board. So I basically inspected the board visually and nothing seemed loose. Don't be fooled a connection does not need much to loose conductivity. I next started checking with a screwdriver how secure each solder point was. Low and behold 2 points were loose. I quickly soldered them up and closed the module up. 2 months later it's still working and the total cost was a fraction of what they charge at the wreckers. Just one more thing that is common on the R50's that I came across.

Could someone share their DWG. of the the spacers. I do the costing for a Plasma table at work. I could spin a few of these out pretty quick. and cheap depending on the quantity.

Could also be the oil pressure sending unit it is right on top of the oil pump. they tend to leak alot on other vehicles.

Well I got the new motor in, and it only took 3 weekends. I had a few ppl offer to lend a hand but when it came down to actually helping out they weren't around when they were really needed. It went quite well, a few differences between a 2002 and 2001, is that on the 2002 motor the valve covers were redesigned to accept the same Coil pack for Cyl's 1-6. Where in 2001 the motor is equiped with aluminum valve covers and require a separate Coil Pack for Cylinder #1. The other thing was the Oil Pressure sending unit, it has a different style connector. but other than those two items it was a straight forward swap.

I use to live in St Catharines but i've relocated to Calgary AB. for Work. Nothing like a project every now and then. I 'm not one to let people work on my toys when i know i can do it myself. Especially when they want to charge me $1600.00 in labour to repalce the motor.

Yeah the motor is shot, it burns more than a litre of oil this this past week. On the weekend I started to pull the motor. It's a real pain, very little space to work on. by the end of the weekend I basically just have the torque converter bolts left and then motor is out. Mind you The vehicle is from Ontario the province Salts the roads alot!!!. I fought with the catalytic converter bolts for some time. I should have the new motor back in next weekend. The motor I picked up has only 90000km on it and is in really good shape. I have checked the power vavles already and they are all there so I'm gonna go through them and loctite them all. Ventec

Well I'm a new member and with this topic being online I was able to quickly diagnose my issues with my 2002 Pathfinder. The Nissan dealer was telling me that the Catalytic disintegrated and took out the motor. not Believing them i looked into it a little closer and took off the throttle body and took a look . Here's what I came upon. the one picture is of the motor I recently purchased and is in good shape, but like bowtied had stated the screws do not seem to be overly tight, So i'll be going over all the screw with some Loctite before i install the new motor. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/Ven...er/IMG00143.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/Ven...er/IMG00144.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/Ven...er/IMG00145.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/Ven...er/IMG00146.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/Ven...er/IMG00147.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/Ven...er/IMG00148.jpg