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mws

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Posts posted by mws

  1. But the cat back on regardless. There is no reason not to run a high flow version. Be responsible...

     

    B

     

    I'm with B. A high flow universal is cheap, it won't cost you ANY noticeable hp, may actually add torque, will reduce the tailpipe stench, and is just good karma. Why be a gross polluter when it is so easy not to be?

  2. He guys,

    I just purchased headers for my pathy and wanted to ask everybody's opinion on header wrap; Does it realy help? what are the pro's and con's? what brand should I buy? I'll apresiate any and all coments or sugestions.

     

     

    Help what?

    It will reduce underhood temperatures. Sellers claim it will aid horsepower. I have not yet seen any objective data to support that, only marketing claims.

     

    It will also trap moisture. Depending on your climate, usage of vehicle, and the quality of base header, this can lead to serious rust problems over time.

     

    I had a floorboard heating problem in a van. I laid a piece of 6" wide wrapping material across the top of the header (NOT wrapped) between the header and floorboard. It resulted in a very significant reduction in temps. My climate is extremely dry and I did not have rust problem. Eventually ceramic coated the headers so the experiment was not for long.

     

    I kept burning my pants leg on a stainless steel header pipe on my XR-400. I wrapped a 6" section. No more burns, but when it was trashed and needed replacement a couple years later, there was notable corrosion on steel surface.

  3. I can pretty much guarantee you'll be rubbing with any width 34" tire unless you're willing to cut metal. ]

    32" is about the max you can get away with, regardless of lift. Unless you're just posing on the pavement....

  4. Because all the cool kids are doing it?

     

     

     

     

     

    J/K. Trailchaser gave the right answer...

     

    On (all or some - somebody clarify, please) the R50 models, it also helps fuel economy as the front stub axles remain engaged to hubs and rotate even when in 2wd.

  5. USUALLY the machine gun action in relays or solenoids is due to a weak battery. And cold makes the situation worse as a cold battery puts out less amperage - and unfortunately, a cold engine needs more amperage to crank over. That's a double whammy.

     

    Next time it happens, try connecting to a known good battery with jumper cables. I bet it spins over fine. If so, new battery time.

  6. I did just recently read an article about a town that was canceling their photo radar contract because not enough people were getting caught. Yes, the city bluntly admitted they were installed to generate revenue, but people were slowing down where the cameras were and the revenue flow was not what they wanted so they were getting rid of them!

     

    So that is the ONLY proven solution to date - LEARN where the cameras are, EDUCATE everyone where they are, and SLOW down when driving by the cameras.

  7. Unfortunately, the vehicles that are perfect for off-roading in CO are not so perfect for towing.... And vice versa.

     

    For $7000, you could get a SERIOUSLY nice 5 speed WD21 for offroading AND have a serious chunk o' change left over towards a real tow vehicle in the future! The value of gas guzzlers is plummeting right now.

     

    That's what I did. And since I have two drivers, I don't carry any insurance beyond P&L which keeps costs of operation in line. If one gets wrecked or stolen, I do still have the other.... And since both are older ('87 and '88) and not cherry looking, they are not likely to be stolen. And registration is cheap!

     

    Or you can put the money in the bank and use it to rent tow vehicles when you need it....

  8. I understand. It is kind of a halfway step.... Well, more like an 90% step in the Pathy's. Properly done (as in the Pathy), it is still a HUGE improvement over a carb, and having driven TBI and MPFI VG30's back to back, I find the difference to be relatively small. Noticeable, but small. The Pathy TBI is NOTHING as pathetic as the original GM efforts....

    If you find a post '89 engine to put in, start with the '88 TBI set up and give it a try. Once it's running great and all the other niggles are fixed, then tackle the swap.

     

    Make sure you get everything with the later engine! Getting all the parts later will be a pain and $$$.

  9. Whoopin Time!!!

     

    You beat caR50!!

    You beat caR50 severely on the ground. When there is lots of blood showing, you head up to the nearest 10-story building's roof and drop him over the edge. You run home silently and carefully. :shiftyeyes:

     

     

    WTF? Are you trying to sound like a non-sensical, illiterate, grammatically challenged idiot?

     

    If you were, congratulations. Now explain yourself.

     

    If not, you failed....

  10. The towing in Colorado is going to be a real challenge if you are thinking to put the Miata on a trailer. You just ain't got much air up there, yet the hills are steep.... I'm afraid a Pathy (or any of the others you listed) just isn't going to do it as well as you'd like.

     

    You really need at least 5 liters worth of torque...

     

    But other than that, they are excellent rigs, and I highly recommend them.

  11. Welcome!

     

    First off, the '88 is also FI'd - it's just that it is a TBI instead of MPFI. The crankcase, heads, accessories, etc are effectively identical.

     

    So yes, it can be done. You just need to keep ECU, sensors (MAF, air temp, TPS, etc), wiring harness, and air plumbing (filter, etc) for the intake you choose to use.

    But that is more work than just swapping in the new engine and using the original '88 parts from intake up.

     

    The main thing the later MPFI gets you is a bit more power and efficiency. I've thought of doing it, but durnit, the '88 TBI system works well enough to make it not quite worth it to me!

     

    In addition, it would cause some hassles for me in California for smog reasons. It would need to go to referee station and be inspected as the year of the engine.

  12. Ding Ding Ding!

     

    We have a winner! Two winners, actually!

     

    1 golden star to Aaron for helping the guy out! :fireworx:

     

    And 1 golden star to LandShark for the most informative post possible! :fireworx:

     

     

    Way to go, guys! THIS is the kind of behavior that keeps this site great!

     

    Here's to hoping your days go as well as you deserve! :aok:

  13. With regards to '87-'95 WD21's:

     

    Solid (and beefy) H233 rear axle. Some with LSD. Lock-Rite available for open diffs.

    IFS front.

    Came with autolocking front hubs, manuals available.

    True 4x4 with real transfer case (no electric psuedo stuff)

    Body on frame construction (not flexi-flyer unibody)

     

    Automatics, if abused, are weak link. Properly cooled, are fine. Most of us much prefer the 5 speed which is borderline indestructable.

     

    Crawl quite well bone stock, outstanding with some mods.

     

    Bottom line, one of the best true 4x4's available from factory in the 90's. Do not require nearly as many mods to be capable as Jeeps, Fords, Chevy's, or any others. And for any level of competency, still less expensive.

     

    Warning: You will probably lose interest in Explorers after trying one.

  14. Do yall think the tires and rims would fit on there stock w/o overly rubbing?

     

    Almost certain they will rub some, especially when turning.

    I have 265/75-16 AT's on 16x8 wheels with near optimal backspacing (unfortunately, I forget exactly how much).

    I have 3" body lift and about 2" suspension lift.

     

    The front right still (lightly) rubs the plastic of the fender flare at the back during sharp right turns.

     

    I'm pretty sure the wheels you're looking at here will place the outer edge of tread even further outboard, making rubbing even worse.

     

    Edit:

    My 16x8 wheels are 4" backspace, -12 mm offset, so these wheels would result in the tires being offset almost exactly the same, so they will theoretically fit about the same.

     

    Keep in mind the generally recommended MAXIMUM wheel width for 265/75-16's is 8". Min is 7". 9" is too wide, and will result in a less than optimal sidewall and tread profile, and expose the wheel to more trail damage.

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