mtnnate

Yes, I have done that in quickie situations. But the bar pokes down and bumps into the trail sometimes too. I need to get a welder and make a REAL fix. Then I can sell it to you guys! I can't give up the sway bars permanently because I love how it corners with them on.

OK, so those of you that have the disco's. How do you keep the sway bar out of the way when its disconnected? I made some disco's and found that since the sway bar is conected to the axle it moves around and falls to the ground. I tried roping it off (no good). Finally, I completely removed it. If you could turn it around so that it disconnects from the axle would be ideal. Same problem on the front too. Any pictures of your answers?

http://www.4by4connection.com/nissan3.html $301 plus shipping Also by ARB for 92' thru95' http://www.rocky-road.com/pathfinder.html $269 That's why I made my own!!! I like the look of mine too!!! Do they have sunshine or pretty girls in OZ? Cheer up!

I'm not an expert, but having had several 4x4's over the last 12 years beginning with my very first car ('72 FJ-40) I do have a little bit of experience. Plus I've lived in Utah for a long time and just been around many other well built rigs. I have always locked the rear first. Here's why: 1. Street driving isn't really affected by the rear (except icy roads) 2. Most weight transfer occurs over the rear axle in most areas likely to lose traction (hills) 3. Rear ends are built a LOT stronger than the front 4. You can still steer your rig with the rear locked 5. Descending hills where weight is over the front, your brakes act as lockers any way Most rock crawlers in Utah still don't use front lockers, unless they're trailer queens- most go with limited slips for steering reasons. Has any one tried the 300ZX limited slip? I'd like to try that out next. It would be my first rig with traction in the front. My friend built a Heep locked front and rear and it kinda' sucked. He had to switch out of 4x4 on every turn just to get the thing to go around corners. 'Chirping tires are COOL!!!

I wish I was by my truck to take a pic. I like the way you mounted that BTW. I mounted mine with some bolts, wing nuts and rubber thru the existing holes on the Right hand side of the spare tire. But I can't use the window anymore either... Its too hard to get in there anyway with a big 33" tire in the way...

I guess I should also say that I used a 3" HOLE SAW and didn't cut a big curve in the metal. The pipe just comes out the side and then bends up. GOOD LUCK- Post pics!

Well... despite the fact that my last one turned into a WAR- I will add to the homemade snorkel with a review over the last few months. As for 'wheeling in the swamps of SE Georgia the thing worked perfectly. I got a lot of comments from people. A few were like those of "VSicks" and many were enthusiastic and a few people just didn't even know what it was, "Is that your exhaust?" Heehee! I have since moved the 'fam back to Utah. I was there for a month before I had to leave for Korea and still enjoyed the benefits of having a waterproof system both in the mountains and in Moab. Things to look out for: -Use 3" ABS pipe- pvc is crap of course -for the hole you cut be sure to prep and paint it before adding hardware -Use a peice of rubber fitting and Custom fit it around the pipe leaving the fender to insulate the metal and keep it looking clean. - If you find that you hate the extra attention it will bring (and it WILL bring attention to you) or the "devaluation of your rig" (heehee!!) just take it off and put a big 4x4 club sticker over the hole. Yeah!!!

First off let me say I have a K&N and have had them in every vehicle I've owned. Now, My brothers both work for Ford, and they said that Ford will void warranties on powerstrokes with K&N filters. The compression is too powerful for the filters. Do our vehicles have that much compression? Dunno, I do know mine has had the same K&N for the last 100k. My truck now has 146k. Whatever...

Sorry its so big, I screwed up! (heehee)

I finally got my L&P CenterLink and made up my own beefed up Idler Arm with help from my (R&D Engineer) Dad. I have since abused it a little and I'm still loving it. I highly recommend L&P to everyone, just remember that it take about 2 weeks to get your Centerlink back from them so you need a backup plan if you have a daily driver.

Yeah, Actually my dad is an R&D Engineer and a hot rod enthusiast- He swears that I should get better performance with the top turned around due to the vaccum effect... Whatever. I haven't logged any miles with it turned around, I believe in ram-air.

It really RAINS a lot down here- the weather channel has had our region in the 'red' for the last few weeks, Heh- So rain is a concern of mine too. I really like your idea with the drain. I have just been turning the top "scoop" part towards the windshield when I wheel' or when it rains. I left it soI could turn it from the window while driving. I've even checked the filter box for droplets after driving in rain and it's dry. Good luck!

What would be the best (and cheapest) way to upgrade and replace my crap stock steering setup? I'm thinkin' L&P Center link + Idler Arm brace. I probably need a new idler arm... Tie rods... MOOG?? Or, should I just suck it up and go with Calmini? I know L&P have had their problems but its almost worth the risk for the price. I only want the advice of people who actually have some SERIOUS steering upgrades to thier rigs.

Sorry, I'm running 33x12.50R15 General Grabber A/T's which I love!! The wheel is what matters though. That size would work well with 31's too.

For $1155 this is what I did. Lockrite Locker= $280 2" lift = $free99 (turned t-bars & cut the rear spring spacers from old tire sidewall) 3" body lift= $120 33x12.50 R15 General Grabber A/T= $420 15x8" black rock crawlers 3.75" bs= $160 (Summit Racing w/ free shipping) Mounted with lifetime balance= $40 33" spare BFG =$35 (Ebay) Redneck Snorkel= $60 (Lowes) K&N Filter= $40 I only had to trim the front fenders. I will still need to spend another $300 for steering upgrades from S&L. Just giving you some ideas...

Don't know how to post 2 at a time.

Well. I HAD to get wheels too. Don't mount 33's with those skinny wheels. The ride was really swishy and all of the footprint would'nt touch down. For all of you 31" tire lovers out there: Meet me in Moab and I'll PROVE to you why you need more lift and larger tires. I'll be there the first week in May. Anyways, you really do have to trim the front fenders no matter what unless you're running a really deep backspacing. Here's pics:

You can get 'em in 3.75" bs. Just a little suggestion, I ordered my wheels from Summit Racing. They have free shipping and they were the best price.

It will be ok. Just buy the AC kit and pay the tiny extra $$$. It's not that hard to line up the bolts.

I think it's just something you have to deal with if you own a Nissan! Mine has done that for years now. It just ticks for about 60 seconds and then goes away after it warms up. It has ALWAYS passed emissions too.

Thanks for the replies! It is a little ghetto but I need the insurance here in S.E. Georgia swampland. The saran wrap is a good idea, my friends and I have used this idea for several years. I used duct tape to hold it though. As to the performance, I'm pretty anal about logging my mileage (what better indicator of problems to come?) and I gained .2 miles per gallon after the install. That must mean something! Remember, a snorkel isn't a liscense to go swimming, just engine insurance.

3.75" on 15x8 was the magic # for me. 2" sus, 3" body. Still had to bust out the sawzall though.

DON"T BE SCARED!!! Seriously, about 3-5hrs with hand tools is all it takes. Maybe you should buy a hack saw too. If you're going to lift it and take it out and 'wheel you might as well learn how to work on it too. What better time than in your own driveway? Good luck, remember to loosen up everything and double check. You'll be fine.

How it looks under the fender.

Here's a slightly cleaner version of a homemade snorkel.