crxfisher

I found the problem! I had a hitch installed at U-haul about a year and a half ago. I checked the wiring in the back yesterday and whoever did it was a moron! pssd First, one of the wires wasn't long enough from the right turn signal light so they used a a little snap connector that exposed both ends of two wires as an extension. The wire was stretched tight and the exposed wire ends were touching ground. On top of that there is a little control module that was tucked (stuffed/shoved/squeezed/crammed) in a very tight spot under the back with wires coming out both ends. One of those wires was loose and touching ground. I will end up re-wiring it all the right way. Idiots. The only reason I got it done at u-haul was because I needed it ASAP to tow a car that weekend. And I waited forever that day while they installed it. Geez.

Thanks. I did take the cluster out a couple weeks ago but didn't SEE anything obvious. I'll take apart some more. Also, it happened again today, and right when it happens (again turning on the blinker) there is a buzzing sound that comes from behind the dash (behind the cluster I think) for about one second.

I have a 97 XE with a very frustrating problem. It happens mostly right after startup, but sometimes just in the middle of driving. The guage cluster will just shut off. Odometer, speedo, temp, etc. When this happens, the car drives like dookie. If it happens while stopped, and I try to go, it barely goes and seems like it never shifts. I guess it's limp mode. Then all of a sudden it will come right back on and work like normal. I have found that it happens most of the time when turning on the blinker. Also, it seems to reset when I turn off the ignition and turn it back on. Everything is fine then. Sometimes it will go a few days without doing it, but it has been getting more frequent. The only CEL code is something about a bad circuit from the A/T control unit to the ECU. To me, that sounds more like a symptom than a cause. Any ideas?

Ok, yeah that looks real good. That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks. For future reference, here's the post he was talking about: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6225

Ok, I've spent the last 30 minutes searching and can't find an exact answer. I have a 97 XE with the skinny stock wheels and I want to upgrade, but NO lift. Going with the black US Wheel Daytona's from Summit. From what I have read, you CAN put 31's on without a lift with minimal rubbing. But my question is, what backspacing and width should I get? 15x7 or 15x8? And the 3.75" or 4.5" backspacing? I don't mind them sticking out a little bit, but nothing too extreme. Also, if anybody has pics of 31's on stock height with these rims that would be awesome. Thanks.

Mine says "Use LSD oil only" on the differential case. I can't remember if it's a sticker or if it's right on the metal. I haven't had it very long, and didn't know when I bought it that it was LSD. But I noticed it when I was looking underneath.

Yeah, I did some looking around yesterday, and through Big_Johnson's site I found "xplorx4"s site. His is white with silver tint and it looks great: click here

I charge $250 on most SUVs, but it depends on the condition. If the vehicle is new, and very clean, then I would possibly do it for $200. If all you want is to get the front doors done to match the rear, then you're looking at $60. Again, depending on condition. You can probably find some hacker to do it for $100 if you look for the cheapest job. But don't expect it to last or look good. :oops: Man, you guys are harsh. I guess black is the way to go. I considered the silver stuff since it comes like that from the factory on some. Big_Johnson- your tint looks good in the pics. I do like that color, and they matched it nicely.

Ok, I got it last night. That little screw at the front of the intake manifold was killing me. Can't get to it from the side, and there's a huge bracket in front of it. But I found an obscure little hole in the bracket that is obviously for that one screw/bolt. I was able to get in with a 1/4 drive ratchet with a short extension. BTW, it's an 8mm (or phillips head). Hope this helps someone in the future. I guess I just needed a break from it. Spent over 6 hours on it the day before and my brain was fried.

I know there are some older Maximas that had this as well (mid 90's I think). Don't know about newer ones.

It's a white 1997 Pathy with a bad tint job. It's currently got black 5% on all except for the front doors. The black looks good (other than the quality) but I also like the semi-metalic look. I'm a window tinter, so you would think that I could make up my own mind. And I can, but I just want to know what everybody else thinks. Thanks.

I just recently bought a 1997 Pathfinder. Great vehicle, but I found it had a bad knock sensor. So I bought the sensor and started working on it yesterday. I found out very quickly that I hate working on this engine. It's a V6, and I have to remove the intake manifold to get to the knock sensor. I figured it would be a couple of hours of work, so I started about noon yesterday. And 6 hours later, I only had the upper plenum off. Right now I'm struggling with the lower plenum. I have the coolant drained, fuel rails off, and the lower plenum bolts are off, and the plenum is loose. But there is a screw/bolt in the front that is impossible to get to. I think that's the thermostat housing or something??? Not sure. Has anybody done this, and do you have any tips? I'm losing my insanity on this stupid sensor job. pssd