trenton163
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Posts posted by trenton163
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I have a 92 pathy with those pods i the back and I know that thoses are 6x9's but what are the front ones in the doors, I think I read somewhere on here that they are 5 1/4 but i want to be sure. Thanks
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Okay, thanks for all the info guys! I don't know what I would do without NPORA
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So if I tighten my torsion bars and then align my wheels it shouldn't damage my steering components?
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I was just wondering if anyone has any experience with them? My front ends sags a lot and when I tried to tighten my torsion bars my front tires looked like "\../". I assume that just getting new ones would be better then risking my steering componets.?
Thanks
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Sorry, I'm not sure what you consider "smaller". I'd hate to tell you to cut the wrong wire. My only reference is my 87, but I think the wire colors are the same. For clarity, maybe you could begin at the starter solenoid itself and follow the group of wires up until you run into another connector. There should be a black wire with a pink or fushia or purple stripe that's thicker than the other ones in that connector. That's the one.
Remember, I have an 87.
If you're not sure, maybe get the FSM from ahardb0dy. He's got a bunch of downloads available for members. Hit him up.
I just got done with it thanks for all the help.It was way easy and it saved me so much time and money
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it should work just make sure the metal part is really clean
here is a list of all the models that use the 4 door pathfinder sunroof latch:
the GC22 is a Nissan Van, the B12 is a Nissan Sentra, the S12 is a 200SX :
cool thanks for the info
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how much were they?
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one of mine came off on my 87 Hardbody years ago, I glued it back on using rear view mirror adhesive , is that what you used?
no I used a two part epoxy that i got at autozone, but thats what I was going to try next.
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has the little plugs on anyone's sun roof fallen off? I've tried gluing them on twice now and is still falls off.
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How steep? I tried running my 93 up a near verticle hill once and the engine cut out just before I hit the top, and I had a nearly full tank.
Never had any issues otherwise, so I never dug into it.same thing happened to me, i got 3/4 of the way up and the engine just died? after i backed down it started right up??
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Thas the part that confused me. Look on your passenger inner fender near the battery for a blue plastic box that has two thick wires and two thin wires. If you tap downward on the box, it will slid off of its mount so that you can work with it better. The thick wires are the side your interested in.
MrJim
I followed the group of wires coming from my starter. I found where the thick cable separated from the smaller black and purple and the Yellow and Purple wire. Is it the smaller black and purple wire that I need to cut and work with?
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When you said" Land of No Internet" I figured you were in either Georgia or Federal prison.
Here's the link I followed and here's another link to the12volt.com, which has great info in simple terms about relays, coils, etc geared for automotive applications.
But here's what I did on my 87:
First, get a 12v SPDT (single pole, double throw) relay like this one
(any auto parts store will have one)and get some 12ga wire and connectors to fit over the posts on the relay.
Find the wiring harness that comes from your starter relay. It should be fairly thin, three or four wires or so. It should run from the starter up around/behind the battery where it plugs into another connector. Coming from that connector, there should be four wires. You're only concerned with the thickest one (on mine, its black with a pink stripe). That black/pink wire is what carries the 12v to your starter solenoid.
As I understand it, over time the 12v circuit that carries the juice down that wire starts to degrade and builds enough resistance to limit the voltage delivered to your starter solenoid. The solenoid won't engage enough to operate the starter. That's the "click...click...click...click" you hear. What the new relay does is throw 12v directly from the battery to the solenoid and use the old 12v black/pink wire to operate the relay.
The relay you bought will have four posts on it numbered 85, 86, 87 and 30.
Connect 30 to the positive battery post.
Connect 85 to ground.
Now cut the black/pink wire.
Connect the "starter" side to 87 and the "harness" side to 86.
Now when you turn the key, 12v will go to the relay thru post 86 to ground (post 85) and energize the relay's coil. When the coil is energized, it acts like a switch and will allow 12v straight from the battery (post 30) down to the starter solenoid (post 87).
okay so i believe that i have the right relay, my only question is what connector are you referring to when you say "It should run from the starter up around/behind the battery where it plugs into another connector." when I follow the starter it appears to be a thick black and yellow cable that runs to the positive battery terminal.? I'm sorry to be a pain in the butt.
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If you're getting the infamous "click" and nothing, read this before you spend $$ needlessly. I tried to chase down a starter problem that I had for two years. When you'd turn the key, it would only click. Not all the time, very random, but would happen about 30% of the time when you tried to start it. Once it would click, it usually would take 5 to ten turns , click-click-click then start. Ends up the wires that carry the juice to the starter solenoid were getting old and wouldn't pass enough voltage to fully activate it. If that sounds like what's going on with yours, follow the link's directions and splice a relay into the circuit that'll throw 12v directly to the solenoid. I did and mine starts every time now.
okay thanks I read the article, but I'm confused. What is the main harness behind the battery? when I tried to follow my cable all i saw was thick black and yellow cable running to the positive battery terminal. could you maybe post a pic of yours so i could get a better idea of how to go about doing this? It sounds pretty straight forward i just am still a little lost with it.
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that's weird, I've never seen one of those before. You could have something special
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what company makes a good starter?, I've decided I'm just going to replace it rather than rebuilding it
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I'm guessing, from reading that everything powers up but the starter doesn't engage, that there's a faulty neutral or safety switch tripping and disengaging the starter circuit.
how would I go about fixing that?
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is it an automatic or manual tranny?
auto
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does it just click or does it just keep turning over and over and not start?
It doesn't do anything,all the lights come on and I turn everything on, it just wont turn over. most of the time I just wait a little bit and it turns over. Once it tries it can turn over easily and it runs smooth.
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My pathfinder starts most of the time but there have been some times when it won't.I have replaced the started, the starter solenoid, spark plugs, the battery cables I have an optima battery, but its like three years old. I can't figure it out??? help please?
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ya i agree with everyone else $1000 is a little high
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IIRC the black round thing is a sensor for I think the auto in cabin temp control. 90 amp alt is better when your running extra driving/offroad lights, amps etc..
he right about the black thing i have one in my pathy
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so yeah i just happen to have that grill guard ur looking for and its in pretty good cond. no broken or bent parts i have the bolts and what not to put it on ur pathy message me if you still want it
i am actually, could you upload some pictures?
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Had to look it up...
And I thought I lived in the middle of nowhere! (I'm technically in Felton CA)
yep the population is around 2000
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i mostly like it for the looks, im not a hardcore 4x4er but i do go, i just want something i can mount lights on. what would you guys suggest than?
window regulator/motor
in The Garage
Posted
same problem here I've been looking for awhile.