Earth1
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Posts posted by Earth1
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I've already picked up some standard mounts with a 1 yr warranty which I guess will have to do for now. I had ordered some "nismo" mounts (only got one) and it wouldn't fit, so I sent it back. IIRC the box said NISMO. I was looking for poly but couln't find any. I'll check some other sources for nismo mounts against nismoparts.com to see if the part# is dif, but that may be the only nismo mount being sold.
Define highly modded. I have new cams and headers. Or are you talking superchager or 350. I do tend to wheel hard and have already snapped one stock one. Granted it was like 13 years old, but I really hope to not have to get in there with the headers in the way. Or trying to fish another ratchet strap around the hot headers on the trail if I do break one. Guess I'll keep working on a my idea for a flex limiter on those buggers.
I just found this on N4W, exactly what I was thinking of. Apparently it's no new idea. I may give it a shot but with a little more room for movement. Maybe 3 shorter links or 2 bigger.
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Thanks. I'm just about ready to put the new one in. As soon as I have some extra hands we'll drop it in, tonight hopefully.
I went a little crazy with the electical tape, I guess I'd rather be safe than sorry. Some of the old harnesses had some decent dirt and were brittle where the wires are exposed going to the connector. I taped the ends of all the connectors from clip to wire with the only tape I had left, which just happened to be grey. It actually looks kinda cool. For the wire stuff I had to swap from the old engine I used some twist type splicers, with a screw-in cap on both sides. They worked great I hope, guess I'll see soon enough. I had to rig the clip on the front of the power steering pump. My old one snapped a wire right at the connector, and the grey plastic clip broke on the new one. I looked everywhere for some tiny square end spades that would fit into the clip, and no one had them. I ended up using some audio connectors with a similar profile, but rounded a little. As soon as I find some proper ends, I'll replace them. That may be something I'll have to get from Nissan. The temps dont really "click" into the clips like the originals but they're tight enough they won't fall out anytime soon.
With the new engine mounts should I tighten the mounts to the frame first before getting the engine in there, or would it be a better idea to wait until the engine is close to being in place? Those will be a major PITA to replace if I break another in the future with the headers in the way. Hopefully it won't be a prob, but I'm anticipating they'll break eventually. Any thoughts on static engine mounts? How important is the flexiblity of those? If they were solid I suppose the engine and tranny would take some of the shock and play if anything were to flex. I'm guessing vibrations while off road might not be too good for the motor with a static mount.
One more thing. I'm considering relocating the oil filter, and I've read probably all the discussions here about it but I have a dumb question. How do I know how much more oil it will take? I could see how much liquid the new line section holds, or just check the oil level on the dipstick, right?
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Yeah sorry i read about the centerlink after i posted that. It still seems crazy that they charge 300 some just for upgrading the joints in the centerlink.
It's worth the cost. I have an LP CL and love it. Those ends are completely new with a new busing (not a ball joint) that allows a lot more movement without binding. That binding is probably what has caused your tie rods to bend outta whack. Those 33's don't help much either but that CL should help some.
I think there aren't any beefy tie rods because it's a Nissan. I've wondered why there aren't any too. Some guys have tried fabbing them up a little stronger, not sure about the results though.
Maybe I'm wrong here but won't a SAS change a lot of your steering alltogether? Maybe not, I really don't know much about the axle conversions. If your decide to do it good luck.
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Another question. Is the rubber tube coming out of the starter just a breather, or is it some kind of vacuum line? Does it connect to something besides the starter?It came out somewhere along the way and I just stuck it back in the hole.
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I haven't actually put it in yet. I'm woking on putting a new engine in and I'll start using it when the new engine is ready. The glue is probably more important than the actual material. I'm using some glue I found at Home Depot that was for higher heat purposes, can't remember the name. The heat in that area isn't terrible, even at its hottest. I suppose it would take some pretty decent heat to damage the rubber and the foam I'm using. I looked all over for some high temp seal with no luck. Let us know if you come up with anything but if you don't I'd bet whatever you use will work OK.
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I think we all feel your pain. I guess you'll have to decide for yourself if the extra cost is worth it. I just heard gas will be up 25 cents for the summer. I use mine to haul around ladders and tools during the week, and buddys and mountain gear most weekends so I can justify the cost of gas. I'm all over the place and usually have a long commute like you and I know it sucks. What about an old bike for a part time commuter to help? Late 70s early 80s are pretty cheap, but motorcycles aren't for everyone.
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Could it be that the cruise control cruise was stuck? Happened to me once, but it was in neutral.
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Welcome to NPORA! Where are you in CO? I'm in Denver, give me shout if you ever want anyone to go offroad with.
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Yup I've never seen a WD21 like that. It looks like an R50 color.
Mine is blueish like Slick's. I'm trading work for a paint job soon and I'll probably go with a neutral light grey. Something original but simple. With all the black trim on our Pathys I really like the contast of lighter colors, especially with dark tint.
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Hey man I used some sheet galvinized, 22 gauge I think. I started with a cardboard temp. I have some thin rubber c-channel I'll be gluing around the sides and bottom. I'm experimenting with foam backer rod and/or garage door weatherseal strip for a seal at the top. I'm using some tie brackets bent to the fender shape to mount it. My first design has a hole for the intake that would go around the rubber lip of the intake, protected with a strip of that c-channel around the hole.
If I were to make another I would design it to bolt in between the maf adapter and the mating plate. It sounds janky, but it's actually looking pretty good. I'll get some pics up when I get it in. You might be able to just buy one from AC or somewhere, but if you like little projects it's a quick deal. Hope that gives you some ideas.
Even if the performance is marginal, we still need a way to mount a cone filter, so it's not pointless.
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Cool! I have pulled my first engine.
I had some help tonight finally and we got it out. It really wasn't too bad at all. It took a little coaxing with a jack under the transmission, stands under the differential xmember, some patient wiggling of the hoist, and a little muscle. Once we realized the oil pan was catching on the xmember so it couldn't move forward, it came off pretty easily. It seems like getting the new motor to slide in and putting everything together will be one of the harder parts, but I'm over the halfway point now. Hopefully my labels and cataloging and pics will make it go smooth. I'll spend tomorrow night cleaning the engine bay and parts and start swapping the stuff I need over to the new eng. I'm debating whether or not to mess with fixing a couple of electrical connectors. Will I be able to find spades that will fit into some of the clips at an auto parts or RadioShack easily? Is the best way to splice a wire to solder it and wrap it with shrink tube and tape?
Some other questions. What is a good degreaser for soaking the engine bay for cleaning? Cleaning parts? Is there anything that I shouldn't get wet while power washing the bay?
Are the aluminum plates on the engine mounts just heat shields?
I left my windows down. Any way to get em up manually?
Is there anyway to "quickly" check the clutch for problems while the engine is out?
Any tips for getting the engine to slide on the tranny spline?
I think I could be up and running by the end of the week, but I've pretty much given up on a time line by now.
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The engine came from Japan, looks like maybe they don't use them there. The ASCD and related wires/vacuum isn't crucial to the engine running is it? It's just for cruise control right? What if I use the new motor's throttle body (sans ASCD cable) and chucked the pump and stuff? I've never even used the cc. Might be a good place to put the oil filter.
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This weekend I disconnected everything from the old engine. Lines and wire harnesses off, tranny bolts out, diff/crossmember dropped, engine mounts loose, exhaust off. The engine should be ready to pull. I couldn't wait for help anymore so I did most of it by myself. A couple of wire connectors are in bad shape so I'll try to fix them, but they look like they aren't really reuseable. The engine mounts are a PITA, and I may have done some unnecessary work by loosening the center bolts through the engine mounts. The exhaust was harder to get to than I expected, probably even tighter once the headers are in place.
One weird little issue I came across this weekend. The new motor only has the throttle assembly (the half circle that swings open the valve) on the intake. It looks like there never was an ASCD "thing" beside it. The throttle bolt through the intake valve simply stops at the throttle. Just a shorter bolt there with a nut on the end. What is the ASCD and what is the "cannister" that it goes to? I'm just gonna use the throttle body off the old motor, unless someone here says otherwise. I do have some pics of what I'm talking about, but my camera is elsewhere.
On a side note; What was Nissan thinking when they put the starter right under the oil filter? God that thing was dirty when I got it out. Gunked up with years of old dripped oil and dirt. I will be seriously considering moving the filter, or at least rigging up a drain sheild for now.
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You can check the ecu codes yourself. If you're paying to have it done you might want to consider buying a reader. It might cost less than having someone else do it once.
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Does it run ok?
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Where can I find the MAF adapters at and what is the part number I needed I orderes one off of ebay but it was the wrong one.
Try calling all the ricer racer shops in your area. That's where I ended up getting one. It wasn't a perfect fit on the bolt holes, but an easy fix like GrimGreg said with the Maxima adapter.
I just mentioned this in another post, but be sure that the intake shape is exactly like yours with an off-center intake hole. I ordered one from ebay that was listed for my year Pathfinder and the hole was in the middle of the square. I installed it and the truck would not run. That little bit of space makes a huge difference in airflow to the sensor.
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I was debating whether or not to do it. They have already been bolted up with RTV on the gaskets... but I put the damn studs on backwards. I'm gonna have a hell of a time getting them out without damage to the threads. I guess I'll wrap something around them and use some vice grips. Think I should just pull them off, or since the gaskets are already gooped on there maybe I should try to wrap 'em with somthing to protect during install. I should have some folks around to watch out for hangups.
I'm getting impatient. I can't wait to get this thing in.
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If the bolt is broken flush you'll need a bolt extractor (EZ out or the likes). I had it easy because the engine was on a stand.
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Here it is Saturday morning 10:15. I was wanting to get started at like 6 or 7 this morning and my helpers are all "busy". Jerks. I need to get this thing done and have to do it over a weekend or as close to over a weekend as possible so I'm not without my truck for work for too long. It's looking more and more lke I'll have to put it off till next weekend.
But.. my shiny new Thorley headers look sweet on the new engine.
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does anyone think a cold air box built around the cone will add any performance ? Thanks ---glenn
In theory yes, but I don't have any proof on that. With a box, most of the air is pulled from the fender well, which is mostly cool air. Then again, the only place pulling air is the fender well, same as the stock air box. If nothing else, it might help in the event of water or mud entering the engine compartment.
I can tell you that the cone type filters make a better (throaty) sound and just a slightly noticeable difference on throttle response. That's with a stock setup, the performance might be more noticeable with other mods (exhaust, etc). If you are considering a cone filter, you should know that you'll likely get a little whistle sound. It's not too bad, but maybe enough to annoy some folks.
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Crap. I used to have it, but I can't find it. You might consider using an adapter and keep the stock box intact just in case you want it for a snorkel or something sometime. You can find MAF adapters that will work on our engines, and it is probably easier than fooling with the box. I made a cold air box to hold mine from some thin sheet metal. Here it is in progress.
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I'd take the headliner out to get a good look at the supports and possible ways to rig some HD brackets, that's what I'll do when I get a basket.
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Another way is to put the pulleys back on the crank temporarily and use a v-belt pulley wrench to hold it while tightening the crank bolt.
I didn't know about those. Ended up just using air on the crankshaft bolt, with a very special "camshaft stopping rig" and it worked great.
I took the day off to try to get everything ready for this weekend. I need to do a couple of parts runs, and start labeling my old engine stuff, and PBing some stuff.
The new engine is pretty much ready. I'm not sure if the lower pulley (with the marks) is in the right place and the distributor is off a little. I'll look that stuff up in the FSM and tweak as necessary. Once I get the belts on, headers on and new plugs it's ready to go. I have this reoccurring nightmare that when I try to start for the first time I'll get these awful sounds... and smoke and... POOF!
I have just recently changed the oil in my old motor. I was thinking of using the old filter for the first few hundred miles cycle. Would you use new high quality oil and fuel filters for the first run, or should I just use my old ones since I'll be chucking them soon anyway? I guess I'll change the oil after the first 200 miles or so and then again maybe 500 after that. I was thinking I'd just cycle the cooling system and do an immediate change, and then after 200 with my first oil change.
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Yeah good idea. I am actually looking for a house with a garage and getting out of my apartment because I can't stand not having a workspace anymore. I have a few friends that would use something like that if it were available around here.
I was going to say the tool loan idea could be a hassle from an owner's perspective, but the chip idea would help. With so many people using the shop tools there would inevitably be some maintenence/replacement cost, but maybe the impact of that would be minimal. Maybe you should give a garage proficiency test to qualify.
Links to Club/Nissan Related Sites
in General Forums
Posted · Edited by Pezzy
Definition of thread added.
edit: Please use this thread to post links to other forums and clubs (pathfinder, nissan, or offroad related) That other members may find useful.
Could I have a link to Nissan Wheelers of Colorado pinned? If so I'll start another thread for it, and this can be deleted. I was on NPORA for quite a while B4 I found NWC, might be helpful esp for noobs.